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Andy's Blog: Day 1/100 - Trip 1
23 April 2021- Klingnauer Stausee + Flachsee
Klingnauer Stausee + Flachsee














































23rd April, England's National Day (St Georges Day) arrives and the challenge is ON. Probably the flattest 110km ride we will have throughout the whole challenge. Weather was sunny, a bit windy, cold in the morning but gradually getting warmer throughout the day. A real contrast as we travelled through farmland and industrial areas. Points of interest on route; beautiful countryside to walk and bike (no cars allowed) through land owned by the army close to Birmensdorf...just keep your head down to avoid the shells. It is amazing how much farmland there is around the Ikea industrial areas in Spreitenbach. You never see it when you go to Ikea by car. Baden has a beautiful old town especially viewed from the bridge over the river Limmat. Unfortunately the rest of Baden is a traffic congested building site. The first lake of our challenge, the Klingnauer Stausee is approx 5km north of Baden on the river Aare and is ranked 56th largest lake in Switzerland It is a wildlife sanctuary with a 8km cycling/walking path around the lake. Very flat area and views spoiled slightly by the power station in the distance who created the wildlife reserve. River/lake is fast flowing; during our ten minute strenuous swim we managed to stay in the same spot. We had dreamed of lunch on a terrace overlooking the lake. Sergei recommended a restaurant in the local village which turned out to be in the middle of a car park under construction. Food and Schneiderwiess however, were very good. We got chatting with a local who consumed a bottle of red wine during our stop. That is the effect the Baarbierians conversation has on the locals. Back on the road, taking life in hands through Baden again, we headed on cycle paths to the town of Bremgarten. Amazing old town and wooden bridges across the weirs on the River Reuss. Onwards to our second swim in Flachsee, number 65 on the list, which is also classed as a Wildlife reserve. We approached from the eastside to avoid the very popular areas for birdwatching on the east of the reserve. Signs indicating no swimming caused us to walk along gravel tracks until we saw no more signs and from a muddy bank, plunged in for a quick dip. Back on the bikes feeling tired now with the prospect of the biggest climb of the day back to our starting point at the Türlersee. Celebrated with an evening of sausages and beer round a grill in the forest."
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Andy's Blog: Day 3/100 - Trip 2
25 April 2021- Pfäffikersee + Greifensee
Pfäffikersee + Greifensee
"Two words to sum up this ride and swims, "Organized Chaos" although I am not sure about the organized bit. Being a sunny Sunday and with Covid restrictions easing, 14 bikers volunteered to join me on the ride to Pfäffikersee and Greifensee. In addition, family groups said they would join us for just the swim in Pfäffikersee, with the option of joining the cyclists en route to the second lake. Both lakes are approx 20km north of the lake of Zürich and 5km apart albeit with a steep hill in between. The route entailed crossing the Zürich Lake (Zürichsee) (numbered 6th largest lake) by Ferry from Horgen on the Southside to Meilen on the North. We planned to meet at the ferry terminal at 9.30am. A smaller group of us met local to where I live and cycled the 25km from my house to Horgen. The route takes one up over the Hirzel which is a great viewpoint for both looking back into the Zug area and looking down onto the Lake of Zurich. Once at the top of the Hirzel, you cycle through rolling countryside along the ridge before dropping down to the Zürichsee. We met everybody on time and caught the ferry as planned. It is a beautiful crossing with views of the city of Zürich one way and snow capped mountains, the other. In addition, the ferry skipper offered a group discount. Perfect start.. what could go wrong. There are no mountains on the north side of the Zürichsee, but the terrain is very hilly with steep climbs and fast descents. Trying to keep 15 riders together, all with their Garmins and Google Maps giving different routes is almost impossible. We hit the first climb, which turned out to be the steepest option and within a couple of kilometres the group had separated right the way back down the hill. However, we regrouped and set off down the hill to a rendezvous point in Egg. Unfortunately a puncture not only delayed progress, but during the repair, gave many people the chance to plan the next stage of route. As we set off, it became clear that we were heading for the Greifensee, and not the Pfäffikersee but the group had once more split and both appeared to be completely lost. Out came the google maps and our smaller group headed off in a direction which took us across beautiful countryside, but also directed us into someone's garden. Having ignored the advice of the locals sitting in that garden, we continued blindly on, until by some miracle we arrived in the small village above the Pfäffikersee and dropped down a very gravelly path (some deciding to carry their bikes to avoid punctures) down to our meeting point at the Seebad Greben where the families had been waiting for approx 30 minutes. The other bikers joined in dribs and drabs and we were able to swim. The Pfäffikersee is the 34th largest lake in Switzerland, but very peaceful with a lakeside path and shallow areas for bathing. Water temperature was about 9 degrees. After drying, an even larger group now set off towards the Greifensee. However, another puncture on a bike that had been carried down to the lake, together with another bike diagnosed with a slightly bent derailleur delayed part of the group. Once on the road, we went back to several groups riding different routes. The Greifensee is a much larger lake, approx 20 kilometres around and the 20th largest lake in Switzerland and very popular with runners, bikers, roller bladers and walkers. It was heaving with people enjoying the sunshine, but trying to manoeuvre around the traffic delayed progress. However, in smaller groups we managed a ten minute swim and to grab a good healthy lunch of take away sausage, bread and beer. Finally all back together, we set off retracing our path back to the ferry. One more puncture on the way and an exhausting climb back over the Albis pass to home arriving approx 2 hours later than expected.
Summary: 98Km distance, 2000 metres ascent, with the gradient reaching 19% on one climb.
Lessons learned... don't pretend you can keep together a 15 biker peloton as if we were in the Tour de France especially on a very warm sunny Sunday.
Next stop... Bodensee (Lake Constance) and Untersee
Andy's Blog: Day 5/100 - Trip 3
27 April 2021- Untersee + Bodensee
Untersee + Bodensee
Only one domestique, Didier, joined me on today's ride and swim to the Untersee and Bodensee. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) is the 2nd largest lake in Switzerland, although part of it being in Germany and the Untersee number 6th on the list is connected to its larger sister lake via a short canal. Our starting point was from the Railway Station in Frauenfeld, which is the capital city of the Canton of Thurgau. We set off heading east/north east along a busy road before picking up the cycle trails that guided us along country roads that ran parallel with the main highway. The weather was sunny but chilly with a strong northerly wind that slowed progress. The scenery gradually changed to a rural area with small pretty villages. We discussed several times that we expected the road to turn northwards towards Untersee, but it continued eastward. We realised that we should have taken a turning earlier and therefore decided to cut across country. This resulted in different grades of roads and paths, some suitable, many not for road bikes. One benefit of this detour was the appearance of a huge castle along a tiny lane. The Castell Castle is a Swiss National heritage site in Tägerwilen. Having travelled for another 40 minutes we arrived at th Gottlieber restaurant situated on the river (part of the Rhine) that connects the Untersee and Bodensee and already 60 minutes behind schedule, contemplated swimming there. However, not wanting to be accused of cheating, we cycled along gravel tracks to the start of the Untersee. We found a closed campsite area with a grassy area and pontoon that led to the middle of mudflats. We had to wade through the mud and very shallow water for 200 metres until we reach a channel that was deep enough to swim in. Water was the coldest experienced so far (approx 6 degrees). After a 10 minutes swim, we waded back, changed and returned to the restaurant for lunch. Food and beer were good but the service very slow. We set off at 2.30pm for Kontanz (now 2 hours behind schedule) and following well marked bike paths, we crossed over the border into Germany and the city of Kontanz. Kontanz is a beautiful University city, (well worth a visit) with an atmosphere of a lively place and completely bike mad. I have never seen so many bike paths. Cyclists definitely rule the highways. Crossing the bridge from the old town, we cycled along the fantastic properties lining the northern shore until we found a suitable beach area. Very shallow waters meant another long wade to find water deep enough to swim. Lots of shells amongst soft mud and weed made this wade uncomfortable (cut my foot) but a very refreshing swim with the city as a perfect backdrop made up for this slight discomfort. Back into the city for a short tour of the old town and a visit to the impressive Kontanz Cathedral. Kontanz was under German quarantine regulations and everything was closed, so no refreshment possible. We headed out of the City up a long climb until we turned west along a very straight road back to Frauenfeld. We put the hammer down over the last 12 km's averaging nearly 40km/hr. After a quick Schneiderweiss beer at Frauenfeld station we headed home arriving just before 8pm.
Lessons learned: Getting to a lake is easy.. finding suitable areas to swim can take a long time
Andy's Blog: Day 6/100 - Trip 4
28 April 2021- Sihlsee
Sihlsee
Target today was to swim in the Sihlsee which lies close to Einsiedeln. It is the 16th largest lake in Switzerland. Support team today was Peter and Mark who joined on a shorter route (approx 32km) on mountain bikes. Weather today was cooler and cloudy with the sun appearing only occasionally. Mark had recommended a meet/start place in a forest carpark which was approx 5km from the meticulously planned route I had entered into my new Garmin. Having set off up a climbing road, we turned off heading west onto farm roads and tracks and found the official MTB routes which took us over hills before the Sihlsee came into site. Dropping down a hill we came close to the impressive ski jumps just outside Einsiedeln. (Now to attempt that would be a real challenge.. not for me). We decided to cycle round the lake, finding a closed camping place on the westside of the lake with a rocky beach area suitable for swimming. The water quality was OK but not as good as the previous lakes but the view of snow capped mountains at the end of the lake more than compensated. After a 10 minute refreshing swim, we set off and took the bridge which bisects the lake, back towards Einsieldeln. Einsiedeln is famous for its Abbey and huge Church which is still the venue for pilgrimages from all over the world. It is amazing that a small town close to the ski areas has such a vast Abbey and Klosters. We cycled through the Klosters and adjoining massive stable complex before going into the church. After a coffee and excellent cake at the outdoor cafe by the Hotel Sonne, we retraced our steps and cycled back up the steep climb before dropping back to our original meeting point.
Lessons learned. Make sure you know how to use your brand new Garmin device.. otherwise it will continually beep at you advising you are off route!
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Andy's Blog: Day 8/100 - Trip 5
30 April 2021- Lake Lauerz (Lauerzersee) + Zugersee
Lauerzersee + Zugersee
Despite weather forecasts of cloud and rain all day, we set off from our starting point in Oberaegeri in bright sunshine. I was joined today by Mark and Didier. We cycled from Marks house into the centre of Oberaegeri before heading along the lake towards and then through the appropriately named Sattel (saddle) pass noting the famous Swiss Monument at Mortgarten. Turning left down the fast downhill main road towards Schwyz we stopped several times for photographs as the Lake of Lauerz (Lauerzsee) came into view. The Laurzsee is ranked 35th in the top 100 list of lakes. One of the stops was by a very small stone chapel (Kapelle Erli) which had been moved several metres to accommodate the new highway. The view in all directions is stunning with the very distinctive shape of the Grosser Mythen on one side and the Rigi on the other. Following the signs for Lauerz we negotiated the very busy road works at the bottom of the hill before finding the quiet road and bike lane on the southern side of the Lauerzee. Riding in shadow caused by steep rock cliffs on one side and the lake on the other we finally came out into the sunshine before stopping opposite the Insel Schwanau which is a small island approximately 150 metres from the shore. The island is occupied by a ruined castle and restaurant served by a small ferry and is adjoined by another very small uninhabited island. We scrambled down steep rocks before swimming out and back to the Island. Lauerzsee is a relatively shallow lake and the water temperature of about 12 degrees was surprisingly warm. Unfortunately we were slightly too early for the island restaurant to be open and therefore we cycled for another kilometre stopping for coffee and cake at a wonderful restaurant (Fischerstube) with a terrace on the shoreline. The quality of the food and service were excellent and Mark and I continued to enjoy the sunshine whilst Didier took a work call. We set off again up the steady but long climb between Lauerzsee and our next target of the Zugersee. Zugersee is one of the larger lakes in Switzerland, listed number 11. Didier had decided to continue his call whilst cycling. However, the wind started to really pick up forcing Didier to stop to be able to hear the conversation. Mark and I pressed on regardless, confident that Didier knew where we were heading!!. The road from Lauerzsee forks at the town of Arth on the north end of the Lake of Zug (Zugersee) and we followed the road and then bike path to Immensee which is a picturesque small town about five kilomentres further on the west side of the lake. Finally Didier arrived and we went through the town into the forest to the Restaurant Baumgärtli which is on the water front. We ordered food and beer before stripping off for a swim before lunch much to the bemusement of the waiter. Dropping down onto the pontoon we literally slid into the water on weed covered rocks. By now the weather was changing with clouds rolling in on the wind which created waves on the water. Fortunately we manged to find some steps rather than slippery rocks to get out with progress being captured by the camera of Mark and the waiter. The waiter was very interested in the challenge and is hopefully reading this blog now. Food and service were good but weather was definitely changing for the worse. Much colder, windier and rain threatening resulted in us cycling as fast as possible back to Arth at an average speed of over 40km/hr before starting the 8km climb back up on a different route to the Sattel. My steroid medication certainly helped in setting a good pace up the climb leaving the boys eating dust :-). Back over the Sattel and then with spots of rain in the air, back to Marks place for a welcome Schneiderweiss and discussion for plans for next weeks swims and rides.
Lessons learned... never trust weather apps
Andy's Blog: Day 11/100 - Trip 6
3 May 2021 - Wägitarlersee
Wägitarlersee
Forecast was for a lot of rain towards the end of the week, so I brought Thursdays trip to Wägitalersee forward to Monday. The Wägitalersee is the 26th largest lake in Switzerland in the canton of Schwyz. It is actually a resevoir hidden in the upper part of a valley, surrounded by the mountains Gross Aubrig, Fluebrig, Zindlenspitz, Brünnelistock and Bockmattli.
My domestique joining me today was Mark. We met about 5km west of Einsiedeln and rode across country lanes to the Sihlsee (see my earlier blog). Taking one's life in ones hands, we crossed the two lane but narrow bridge across the Sihlsee passed at great speed by locals going about their daily business. Turning right and then left we followed the signs to Sattelegg. This quiet road passes by several wood storage depots before starting to head upwards. It is a beautiful climb of about 4km at an average gradient of approx 8% that meanders up through forests, criss crossed by streams. About 1km before the summit we hit the snow line before the panoramic view of the mountains mentioned above came into view as we crested the rise. It is a spectacular vista. Unfortuntely the roadside cafe at the top was closed, so headed down a much steeper and longer descent on the other side, noting the cyclists coming up were all out of the saddle, sweating and puffing profusly... something to look forward later on our return!! We went relatively slowly, with the idea of capturing a photo of the lake as it came into view. Unfortunately, no lake came into view and on reaching the bottom of the valley, we realised that the lake was much further up the valley and about 200 metres higher. However, the climb up along a winding road and through two road tunnels, was rewarded with a view of a hidden gem of a lake. The view is magnificent from the dam wall at the northern end of the lake. The valley going up to the lake is sparesly populated within farmland. There is a small community at the start of the lake on the north side with an restaurant with terrace.. noted for a lunch spot after the swim. The challenge was, where to swim from. The lake was about 50 metres down from the road with no obvious places to enter. Despite time ticking on, we decided to explore by cycling around the lake (approx 10km) and were rewarded with a beautiful quiet slightly bumpy but flat ride bordered on our right by steep grassland and woodland.. lake down below us on the left. Despite the absence of cars, we were surpised at the number of fisherman who, presumably having scrambled down the steep incline, lined the shoreline. At the far end of the lake, we came upon another restaurant, Restaurant Au which conveniently was opposite a small path that led down to the lake. Carrying the bikes we descended to the shore side which was a mixture of rock and mud. Again, we were lucky.. there was a small floating pontoon with a canoe tied up to. Changing on the pontoon, we plunged in for a very refreshing (cold) 10 minute swim, much to the bemusement of the fishermen. Back to the restaurant teracce in the sun, where we enjoyed a very simple fare of soup, bread and beer. Friendly service but very basic menu. Fortified, we finished our ride around the lake, heading back down the hill until we turned up the road back towards Sattelegg. The climb of 6km stubbornly refused to drop below a 10 - 12% gradient with the exception when going round the 180 hairpin turns where, for a few seconds, one was able to get ones breath back. It is a great climb to experience and one which I will certinly return to. At the top we descended back to Einsiedeln, and because time was against us, we took the busy main road around the town, down to our starting point. Then it was back to Mark's place to celebrate by drinking his beer. Great day although longer than expected
Lesson Learned: Keep exploring and you will find better opportunities


































Andy's Blog: Day 12/100 - Trip 7
4 May 2021 - Hallwilersee + Baldeggersee
Hallwilersee + Baldeggersee
After morning coffee at my house in Müliberg, the peloton of myself, Simon and Didier set off to conquer a couple of hill climbs on the bike with swims in the Hallwilersee and Baldeggersee. The two lakes lie in a north south perspective, the Hallwilersee (17th largest lake) is the northern of the two in the Canton of Aargau, with the Baldeggersee (23rd largest) lying less than 3 km directly south but in the Canton of Luzern. The two lakes are in a flat valley with hills on both the east and west sides. Looking south from both lakes, there are views of the snow covered Alps in the distance beyond Luzern. The weather forecast promised blustery winds.... this was an understatement!! We cycled down from Affoltern am Albis, then climbing the first short hill, before descending down for about 5km crossing the River Reuss heading east in the direction of Müri. The roads were surprisingly busy, so it was with some relief when we turned off the main drag onto quieter roads. The relief was only short lived as we started to cycle up a long but steady climb into the teeth of a very strong wind. We came over the top through trees at Güggibad and started to descend into the valley. It is a 12% descent towards the lake, but the wind was almost lifting us off the bike. It was a nerve wracking experience and probably the slowest I have ever descended on a bike. The wind seemed to ease when we got down into the valley and we headed for the Campsite Seeblick situated on the southernmost tip of the Hallwilersee. Three old guys stripping off and plunging into the lake certainly brought out those who were camping. Ignoring their sniggers, we swam in the choppy waters for 10 minutes before dressing and ordering coffee and cake from the Campsite Café. We were on schedule for a change, and set off for the relatively short ride of about 5km to our proposed lunch stop in the very stylish restaurant, Landgasthof Mühleholz which has a terrace overlooking the lake....perfect, except it was shut. The other reason for picking this spot, was a short path down to the lake almost opposite the restaurant. We headed down the gravel track to the lake shore where we found a Dredger moored to a small pontoon. We clambered onto the dredger which provided a clean place to change before entering the coolish water for a 10 minute swim. Again, strong gusts of wind, created waves which chilled the ears whilst swimming. Having changed and now behind schedule, we decided to alter our planned route and head into Hochdorf at the southern end of the lake. Simon led the way promising other good restaurants with nice views. He lied... Hochdorf is a relatively industrial town with plenty of truckparking areas. We decided to stop in a square surrounded by high rise apartment blocks at the Restaurant Baui. It actually turned out to be an excellent decision. The staff were great with a good sense of humour. When we arrived, the waitress advised with a very straight face, that they don't serve beer to cyclists. She then burst into laughter at the look on our faces. Not only was the service good but the food was both plentiful and tasty. Carb loaded with two Wiezen beers, schnitzels, salads, a huge portion of french fries and for Didier, a complete bottle of tomato ketchup, we adjusted our return to take the slightly longer route which avoided most of the steeper climbs. We rode with the wind now behind us, blowing us to Sins where we crossed the beautiful old wooden roofed bridge over the River Ruess before heading to Maschwanden, Mettmetstetten and then home feeling tired and more than a little windswept.
Lessons Learned.. You cannot ignore wind.. especially as you get older
Andy's Blog: Day 14/100 - Trip 8
6 May 2021 - Aegerisee
Aegerisee
The forecast for today's ride was cloudy, windy with rain coming in by lunchtime and therefore I targeted only one lake for our ride and swim. The Aegerisee was chosen as it is relatively local. The Aegerisee is a glacial lake in the Canton of Zug and the 22 largest lake in Switzerland. Two small towns border the lake, Unteraegeri and Oberaegeri but the lake is most famous across Switzerland for the site of the Battle of Morgarten which was fought on its shores in 1315. This battle resulted in the formation of Swiss Confederacy. You have to know all details of this historical event when applying for a Swiss Passport!! It is a beautiful lake surrounded by hills and mountains.
However, it was not quite so beautiful in the cold damp conditions as we set off on mountain bikes to explore the surrounding tree lined hills. Mark and Peter joined me for this stage of the channel. Mark, being a local resident of the town, assured me that he knew every inch of the area like the back of his hand. We quickly moved off the road onto forest paths and smaller challenging trails. We climbed to the top of the Gottschalkenberg where we found our planned coffee stop at the restaurant, shut. As we rode along forest paths towards Schywzerbrugg, more and more of the paths had barriers down preventing access or progress. The reason we discovered was that this was to protect the privacy of a local large bird during the mating season. The German Name for the bird is Auerhuhn, known in English as the Capercaillie or wood grouse. (see photos). Having been forced to retrace our steps several times, and the promised rain now getting heavier, we decided to head back via the Raten which is at the top of a hill overlooking the lake. By now the rain was pouring down, the wind had picked up and we descended at speed down the road and then onto paths back to the edge of the lake by which time, we were frozen. Ideal conditions for swim preparation!! We grabbed a quick takeaway coffee, before Mark and Peter announced that they would prefer to watch me swim rather than to actively participate. It was the coldest swim I have experienced so far far on the challenge, not improved by having to change afterwards in a driving northerly wind. My hands just about managed to grip the handlebars as we cycled back up the hill to Marks place where a soothing ice cold beer was waiting. As we warmed up, the summary of our 25kms distance and 800 metres of climbing gave us a good sense of achievement.
Lessons learned: despite the wind and rain, it is worth getting out into the fresh air - you can still have a good experience.... what's the worst that can happen?.. you get wet. But you can always dry off and look forward to the next stage

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Andy's Blog: Day 15/100 - Trip 9
7 May 2021 - Lago di Vogorno + Lago Maggiore + Lago di Lugano
Lago di Vogorno + Lago Maggiorre + Lago di Lugano
As the forecast for the northern part of Switzerland continues to remain unsettled, we decided to take our first adventure down to the southern part of Switzerland to bike to and swim in Lago di Vogorno, Lago Maggiore and Lago di Lugano where local weather was forecasted to be over 20 degrees C and sunny. The three lakes are ranked 42nd, 4th and 8th largest by surface area respectively. The plan was to go by train to Bellinzone then cycle to the Vorgorno, back to Maggiore for lunch with an afternoon ride to Lugano before catching the train back. Cycle distance was accurately estimated at 70Km with 1000 metres of ascent. Lago di Vogorno is a reservoir near Tenero, in Ticino. The reservoir on the Verzasca river is formed by the Verzasca Dam, built 1961–1965 and made famous for the bungee jump by James Bond 007 in the film Golden Eye. Lake Maggiore and its shoreline are divided between the region of Ticino in Switzerland and the Italian regions of Piedmont and Lombardy. The Lake of Lugano is a glacial lake situated on the border between southern Switzerland and northern Italy.
Today's support team of regulars, Didier and Mark, were joined by Carlo whose local knowledge of the Italian region of Switzerland would be useful. We boarded the train in Zug. One tip when travelling with bikes on Swiss express trains; you need to reserve a place not only for yourself but also for the bike. The SBB app is very good, but it is easier to plan all requirements by going directly to an SBB travel office. The lady at the Thalwil booking desk was extremely helpful. Hopefully she or her employers will read this blog! The train journey from Zug to Bellinzone is only 1 hour 10 minutes and travels through the longest train tunnel in the world. We had set off from Zug in cool overcast conditions. We emerged from the tunnel into bright warm sunshine. Our train destination, Bellinzone, has a typical Italian feel created by the climate, architecture and obviously the change in language. The town is a mixture between old cobbled streets and castles, combined with modern pedestrian walkways and shopping areas. We easily found the bike path and followed it along the river heading out of town towards the Lake of Maggiore before turning to the right and taking the narrow, steep and quite busy route, interspersed with tight hairpin turns towards our first lake. The climb continues for approximately 5km, going through a few road tunnels (you need a light on your bike.. we had one on the leading bike and the red light on the bike bringing up the rear), before the huge dam wall comes into view. There is a wide path that crosses the top of the dam (not for cars) that provides wonderful views of Vogorno Lake in one direction, and Maggiore in the distance, the other. If you are afraid of heights, don't look over the dam wall... it is a long way down. The bungee platform is in place, but unfortunately (not) was not operating on the day we were there. Whilst admiring the view, it started to dawn on us, the enormity of the challenge of how we were going to get into the lake for our swim. The lake is bordered by very steep sides and with the water levels being especially low, it was a long way down from the road to the lake side. We rode for another 4 km around the lake trying to find paths but without success.. there are none. In the end, we went into a small wooded area by the roadside and made our way down by holding onto tree branches to prevent us from sliding down. The wooded area turned into what is best described as a steep, moonlike environment of rocks, sand and mud. We gradually worked our way downwards, occasionally setting off small landslides. If one had slipped, one would have fallen 100 metres without anything to stop one. Finally, we got down to steep sided rocks at the water's edge and looking upstream, identified an area that we could get out from after our swim. We slid from our rock into very cold water, (about 6 degrees) and after recovering our breath, swam for our customary ten minutes before hauling ourselves through mud and onto rocks on the shore. After changing back into our bike gear, we carefully ascended back the way we had come. The descent and ascent would not have been possible with bike shoes. Fortunately, three of us had brought a change of footwear. Unfortunately, Mark had not and had therefore stayed with the bikes by the roadside. By an amazing coincidence, another gentleman had also attempted to get down to the lakeside and had climbed back via the route we had descended. He saw Mark and gave him the return train tickets from Lugano to Zug that he had found. They were mine; they must have slipped out of my pocket on the way down. The climb down and back plus the swim had taken more than one hour and we were now concerned that we were behind schedule. Back on the bikes, retracing our route we speeded down the road. Warning to other cyclists.. on the descent through one of the tunnels there is a very sharp turn which, when doing nearly 70km per hour, takes one by surprise and tests the disc brakes to their limits. At the bottom of the hill in the town of Tenero, we followed the bike paths indicating the lake and came upon a small mooring area for sailboats next to a grassy area with a restaurant, Ristorante L'Aproddo. Carlo's best Italian secured a table if we waited 20 minutes, which gave us just time to strip off and plunge in for our second dwim of the day. Lake Maggiore is a beautiful lake with views of mountains, hills and woodland. Despite the air temperature approaching 25 degrees, the water temperature was still in single digits. In the restaurant we enjoyed an aperitif of Schneiderweiss followed by a wonderful Italian meal of green salad, soup and Spaghetti Vongole, washed down with a bottle of local white merlot. If we did not have a 30km ride to Lugano ahead of us, I am sure we would still have been there a couple of hours later having enjoyed a second bottle. However, no time to lose, back on the bike and following the Garmin route towards Lugano we knew we would be taking the busy main highway. Whilst this would have been the quickest route, Garmin indicated another route that would take us over a woodland covered hill. We decided to take this route. As we turned the first corner, the gradient ramped up to 12% and then 14% for two and a half kilometres - sweating the bottle of wine out of our system, we turned a hairpin to find the road had changed from asphalt to heavy cobbles and a gradient above 17%. Impossible to cycle, we assumed it would only be a short way to push the bike. Nearly two kilometres later, albeit through beautiful scenery, with the clips on my road bike shoes gradually disintegrating, we finally came to the top of the hill and joined the main highway. A very fast descent down through a lot of traffic and into the town of Lugano. We headed for the lake and found a lakefront that would rival anywhere on the Mediterranean. Open air cafes, bars and restaurants, people walking, roller blading, cycling (Pandemic? What Pandemic?). Found a spot on one of the beaches, and jumped into the water for our third and final swim of the day. Changed and back into the town to grab half a pizza and another Schneiderweiss at an open-air pizzeria before heading to the station for our train at 7.30pm back to Zug.
Lessons Learned... In Switzerland you do not need to travel abroad nor very far to find the taste of the Mediterranean
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Andy's Blog: Day 17/100 - Trip 10
9 May 2021 - Rotsee + Lake Luzern (Vierwaldstättersee)
Rotsee + Vierwaldstättersee
Another Sunday and a glorious day forecasted with temperatures set to reach 25 degrees. A lot of people wanted to join the challenge today which targeted the 87th and the 5th largest lakes in Switzerland, the Rotsee and the Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Luzern). I was especially looking forward to swimming in the Rotsee. It is a lake that hosts an annual 10km race that I have competed in many times. Whilst attracting a good number of people the race atmosphere still retains a very local feel to it. However, it is more famous as a natural rowing lake on the northern edge of Lucerne. It is 2,400 metres long with virtually no current and protected from winds by nearby hills making it an ideal rowing venue. The first regatta was hosted there in 1933 and has since been the venue of many international rowing events. The Vierwaldstättersee has an unusual shape, almost like a cross, and whose extremities touch many different areas in this region. It is surrounded by snow capped mountains with the city of Luzern at its northern shore.
Eleven cyclists met at Baar Station to start the 20 km ride to the Rotsee with the promise of a few more joining en route. We cycled out of Baar following the bike paths along the north edge of the lake of Zug to Cham before heading south into the hills and rolling countryside. The Rotsee, whilst appearing to be fairly isolated from the main roads, is actually very close to a busy thoroughfare with business and shops lining a road with many traffic lights We descended from the countryside and followed this main road, the large peloton strung out through several traffic light stops. 15 cyclists arrived at a very secluded bathing area (Badi) which had a small restaurant and terrace and a path that led down to open green lawns situated at the starting gates of the rowing course. One of our guest riders, from Spain, presented me with a pair of red water polo swimming trunks adorned with the Swiss Flag. Water Polo swimming trunks are designed to reduce water friction.... I would call them extremely tight.. the feeling quickly left my nether regions and that was before we jumped into the cold lake. The cold water enhanced the experience of eliminating fertility. 10 mins later and back on dry land, the circulation began to return and we enjoyed coffee and cake from the restaurant. The cyclists were increasing in numbers. We now had seventeen in the peloton as we headed off on the 10km route to the Vierwaldstättersee. Carlo, (see the previous blog) lives close to Luzern and assured us of an excellent spot in which to swim. Unfortunately, Carlo is not a swimmer. The location was excellent with a grass area for changing and steps down into the lake. However, the water depth was very shallow and remained shallow across a 50 metre wade across sharp rocks until one could actually swim. Once out far enough, the swim was most enjoyable despite the cuts and bruises to the feet. Returning to the shore, the main party left for a circuitous bike route back to Baar. The three of us, Mark, Didier and myself who had cycled with Carlo on the Friday to the Italian part of Switzerland, had been invited by Carlo for lunch at his apartment nearby. We enjoyed an excellent lunch with a view over the mountains surrounding the lake. The key mountains are Pilatus, Bürgenstock and Stanserhorn. Fortified, Carlo guided us on bike paths back through Luzern (not easy as cycle paths are often in the middle of the road between two sets of traffic. You have to keep your wits about you) until we reached a path signposted Zug which ran along the River Reuss. Carlo left us there with the instructions, "you should be fine from here... there is a short part of the track which is gravel... after that follow the road". We found the instructions easy until it came to the road. The Garmin route wanted to take us in a circular route back to Zug, Didier's Google maps wanted to take us on a more direct route. Following Google, we criss- crossed the countryside before hitting puncture alley, a steep rocky and tree rooted path which fortunately led us to one of the main roads back to Gisikon. All three of us finally recognised where we were and confidently cycled uphill before dropping down into Rotkreuz. A relatively short ride via the back of the golf course at Holzhausen then onto the bike paths around Cham and home to the station in Zug.
Lessons Learned.... sometimes three people with different ideas of route planning can be more challenging than maintaining bike discipline within a peloton of 17. Stick with one route guidance system
Andy's Blog: Day 20/100 - Trip 11
12 May 2021 - Klöntalersee
Klöntalersee
A weekly forecast suggesting rain every day, resulted in two days of unnecessary rest, as the weather remained a mixture of sunshine and showers as opposed to continual rain. I decided therefore, that come rain or shine, I would attempt to ride to and swim in the Klöntalersee which is regarded by many as the most beautiful lake in Switzerland. Rain in the early morning delayed the start but as the weather cleared I headed to the starting point of the City of Glarus where I met Mark, my volunteer domestique for the day. The Klöntalersee is the 32nd largest lake in Switzerland, situated in the Canton of Glarus and lies at a height of 850m above sea level. It is a natural lake that is also used as a reservoir for electricity generation. The climb from Glarus to to the lake is also the start of the Pragel Pass which os considered one of the best bike challenges in the Swiss Alps, especially its renowned steepness at the beginning. The pretty City of Glarus lies at the foot of two towering peaks, the Glärnisch and the Schilt, the Pragel pass dissecting the two.
Because of the steep reputation of the road up to the lake and beyond, we set off with more than a little trepidation. The road climbs through the town before turning left alongside the river where the gradient suddenly ramps up to about 12%. However the road provides welcome relief as it climbs, then flattens, then climbs again to above 14%, but then flattens again. This continued all the way up the 4km climb until the lake suddenly came into view. The road is beautiful running alongside the river/stream with waterfalls on every turn. Steep rock cliffs border the otherside of the road. The lake from the top of the dam is magnificent and our ignorance of the weather forecast resulted in some blue sky and sunshine. The one surprising aspect is the very low water levels. We were told that the electricity company had released a lot of the water (normal for this time of year) but had been compounded by the lack of snow melt during this particularly cold spring. We cycled along the road that circumnavigates the lake. One side is tarmacked, the other more gravel. Either way, it's a beautiful two hour walk around or a bike route, more suited on the other side for mountain or gravel bikes. We rode to the head of the lake where we stopped at a campsite for beer and cake. From this end of the lake, we could only see mud and sand stretching into the distance... no water. We cycled back retracing our route until we found a long set of steps leading down to a pontoon where several small fishing boats were moored. Changing into the Speedo's, I then descended the steps before sliding into a steep sided rocky bank into the water. A beautiful water colour and a temperature of about 8 degree. The customary 10 minute swim, before getting back on the bike for a very fast descent, which did not improve my body temperature. However it was exhilarating and the road actually seemed to be steeper going down than it had coming up. Back to our starting point in Glarus, a quick change and then the journey home..... amazing afternoon.
Lessons learned... when you see the lakes so short of water, one recognizes that water is a very precious commodity.
Andy's Blog: Day 21/100 - Trip 12
13 May 2021 - Lake Walen (Walensee) + Lake Zurich (Zürichsee)
Walensee + Zürichsee
Public Holiday in Switzerland today, and despite a grey day in prospect, I was joined by a challenge virgin, Jeremy, together with more seasoned domestiques, Didier, Mark, Carlo and Peter (our webmaster). Peter who is a keen mountain biker but not a road biker, had borrowed a road bike to ensure he did not miss out on all the fun! Our challenge today was to bike to and swim in the Wahlensee and then back to the Zürichsee. Relatively flat ride in prospect with an estimated distance of 70km. The Wahlensee straddles the Cantons of Glarus and St Gallen and is the 13th largest lake in Switzerland, renowned for its vivid blue colour when the sun shines. We were therefore not expecting to see blue today! The Zürichsee is the 6th largest lake and stretches 40km from the City of Zurich at one end to the small town of Schmerikon at the other. The lake is dissected by a bridge crossing from Pfäffikon to Rapperswil.
Our meeting point was at the bathing area (Badi) in the small area of Freienbach close to Pfäffikon on the southern shore of Zürichsee. On arrival, most of the group immediately gave their best advice on which direction to take.. Garmin, Google and Swiss Mobil were all recommended but finally, Tom Tom Jeremy (who, in fairness, has ridden the route before), just set off with the comment, follow me. And we were off. With on-going grumbles and the normal levels of banter emanating from the group towards anyone within the team who is older, slower, faster, fatter slimmer etc (no bias at all from our team - everyone is a potential target), we cycled through the uninteresting industrial areas around Pfaffikon before hitting the bike routes that took us along the valley. Ongoing recommendations about right, left, straight on, all ignored by Jeremy, kept the pace honest. The route itself has relatively few points of interest until you turn up along the river towards the town of Weesen. Weesen is a pretty village that lies at the east end of the Wahlensee. There is a central lawn area by the lakeside fringed by lilac trees, restaurants and hotels. We noted a good restaurant for the lunchtime stop, but continued round the lake for about another three kilometres to a campsite which had an excellent area for both diving and swimming. Clambering down rocky stairs, those who were swimming changed and slipped into the coldest of the lakes I have swum in to date. The water has minerals, almost chalk like, which gives its blue colour. After more friendly arguments about the water temperature and how long we should swim for before frostbite would set in, we emerged, grabbed a coffee and croissant to warm up. Excellent spot to stop with good facilities. With rain just starting to fall, we rode back to our designated lunch stop. We were seated on two tables to comply with Covid rules (maximum four people to a table) under an awning. The service was excellent (even our Dutch colleague recommended a larger tip than normal) and we were soon supping Schneiderweiss whilst enjoying a seafoood platter. As the meal progressed, so did the onset of a storm that brought strong winds, heavy rain and hail. Tables moved by the staff before we abandoned our position to take up shelter in a small area inside the restaurant to wait for the storm to pass. Finally, with time ticking, and the rain showing signs of abatement, we set off again, this time following the bike paths that would take us north of the lake towards the medieval town of Rapperswil. The bike paths on the north side of the lake tend to be predominantly gravel and dust. With continual light rain combined with the dust of the tracks, we were soon not only wet through but covered in a sludge of mud and dust. Peter commented that he now understood the joys of road biking!! I also discovered a new feature of my Garmin.. we crossed a covered wooden bridge deciding to stop to take a photograph. As I dismounted, I staggered slightly which prompted my Garmin to issue a high pitch warning alarm. This alarm, unbeknown to me, also sent an emergency message to my next of kin.. ie my wife... she was uncertain what to do, but decided that there should be enough people in my support team to be able to look after me if an accident had occurred (I think she did check the insurance documents). Reaching the town of Rapperswil, whose skyline is dominated by the impressive castle and church, we cycled across the lake via the bridge arriving back at our destination slightly later than expected but still with a swim to complete. Changing out of filthy wet cycling gear into still damp swimming gear was not pleasant, but we still waded out across a stony slightly shelving beach into the lake to enjoy another 10 minute swim. One of our regular swimmers, Dawn, had agreed to drive over to join us for the swim in the Zürichsee. She had been sitting 100 metres away behind some trees, oblivious of our arrival until she heard cursing and then splashing in the distance. She finally found us and after her swim, she produced a case of cold beer. Good way to finish what had been a fun but slightly damp experience. 21 lakes completed in 21 days, so still on track.
Lessons Learned... Sit at the back just off the pace.. you avoid getting ear ache from all the bulls*+t gong on at the front of the Peloton
Andy's Blog: Day 22/100 - Trip 13
14 May 2021 - Lake Sempach (Sempachersee) + Mauensee
Sempachersee + Mauensee
Day 22 of the challenge and whilst I am still on track, I am very aware that the challenge will only get tougher as the lakes become further from home and more inaccessible. However, today, my wife Cyn joined me on her ebike. The weather is good with warm sunshine albeit with rain expected to come in during the afternoon. Our plan is to ride around both the Sempachersee and the Mauensee, swimming in both. The Sempachersee is the 15th largest lake in Switzerland approx 20km in diameter lying approx 20km northwest of Luzern. Whilst swimming you have great views of the mountains surrounding Luzern in the distance. The much smaller Mauensee lies about 4 kilometres north west of the Sempachersee and is famous for its privately owned castle built on an islet in the middle of the lake. It is also a nature reserve which could provide a challenge to find a swimming spot.
The town of Sursee sits between the two lakes and was our starting point. From the hills above the lakes Sursee appears to be a mainly industrial town, but when cycling through, there is a very pleasant old part of the town and many green areas. We quickly cycled through the centre of the town following the signposts to the lake. There is a very good cycling route around the lake where you pass by many private lakeside areas down to the waterside, the only downside being the noise from the adjacent motorway. However, the motorway moves away from the side of the lake and the bike path offers opportunities to get to a walking path directly on the lakeside. Just before we reached the town of Sempach, we found a small area with a perfect entry into the lake without being designated an official swimming area. There were plenty of occupied benches which provided a good audience for my swim. Changing quickly, I cautiously made my way across rocks before plunging into the lake. Water was very pleasant, double digit temperature (just) with the sun providing a pleasant air temperature. There were many paddle boarders, canoeists passing with a wave and a shout, but no other swimmers. Coming out, Cyn told me she had captured some good photos, not only of me but also of the wildlife, including a large rat (not sure if it was a water rat.. but it was definitely a rat). We set off again through the very pleasant town of Sempach which had a vibrant centre with cafes and restaurants lining cobbled streets. A bit too early for lunch we pressed on around the far end of the lake, The path turned to gravel which slowed progress and gave concerns of a potential puncture. It is much quieter on this side of the lake, despite it running alongside a railway track. The trains were incredibly quiet. We came to Nottwil and stopped at the Notwill Badi for the customary beer (no Schneiderweiss unfortunately) but a refreshing Erdinger instead. Food was simple but tasty, Flammkuchen and veggie pizza pieces. Fortified, we resumed and on approaching Sursee again we took the busy ring road before turning onto the quieter road towards Mauensee. We cut down an asphalt side track to the walking path (definitely no biking) that circumnavigates the entire lake. The lake is very well hidden behind a ring of trees and thick undergrowth. We went to the front of the heavily gated castle (atop with security cameras) before retracing our steps. No swimming signs everywhere did not deter me from finding a small path into the woodland where a bench, with a view across the lake to the castle, provided a hidden spot to change. I did not swim as such, but eased myself into the water under branches where, immersed, I paddled around in a 5 metre square area to avoid disturbing the wildlife. Jumping out and with Cyn keeping guard at the entrance to this secret woolan area, I changed back into bike gear before us both setting off around the northern part of the lake through farmland and open countryside. Back to Sursee and then the start of the journey home. Only then, did spots of rain appear. Perfect day in the sunshine spent with Cyn
Lessons Learned.. I realised that I have hardly seen Cyn since I started this challenge and I appreciated this time together.
Andy's Blog: Day 25/100 - Trip 14
17 May 2021 - Lake Sarnen (Sarnersee) + Lake Lungern ( Lungerersee)
Sarnensee + Lungerersee
With the weather forecast remaining unsettled for the next week or more, I have to keep up with the number of lakes to days expired ration. Day 25 dawned wet but with the prospect of clearing by mid morning, I planned to bike to and from Luzern to the Lakes of Sarnen and Lungern. My companion today was Mark who agreed to join me after he had completed several work calls. My friend Carlo has an apartment in Kriens (suburb of Luzern) and kindly agreed to provide coffee before setting off. Work prevented him joining... that is the problem with working; it gets in the way of enjoying life!
Both Lakes lie almost due south from Luzern in the Canton of Obwaldwalden. The river Sarner Aa drains from the Lungernsee and flows through the Sarnensee and finally into the Lake of Luzern. The larger lake, Sarnensee is the 21st largest lake in Switzerland, with the Lungernsee numbering 37th on the chart.
Our plan was to follow the official bike route number 9 which runs through Luzern and onto Sarnen and Lungern... so no arguments as to the direction of the route! We set off the relatively short distance before seeing the sign for bike route 9 - one of many bike routes that cross the area of Luzern in many directions. The initial part of the route takes one through the suburbs before reaching the lake of Luzern at Horw (pronounced Horb) and then onto the lakeside small town of Hergiswill. Because of the strange, almost cross like shape of the Lake of Luzern, one cycles underneath the main highway before turning due east along the lake shore until the path turns south and starts to follow the river. Once more the path picks up alongside the highway (which has continued through a series of tunnels) along the valley. By now the wind had strengthened considerably and. together with a path that alternated between rough asphalt and gravel, significantly slowed progress. The path took us alongside a large number of parked cars alongside an airstrip. We noticed that the car number plates were from all areas across Switzerland. Turning left across the airfield, we became aware that we were travelling through a military base and the cars were the cars of the soldiers based there. The path then turned again to gravel alongside the river very close to the water's edge and continued for some distance before turning towards the town of Sarnen. After taking cover from a short sharp shower, we rode through the town turning right at the lakeside before heading to the much quieter and more picturesque eatern side of the lake. The road on the western side runs alongside the highway which is heading for the Brünig pass which links Lungern in Obwalden and Meiringen in Canton Bern. The road heads through the village of Wilen which provides excellent views of the lake of Sarnen with snow capped mountains in the distance. The road runs through woodland before dropping down into the small town of Giswil. We were still on bike route 9 but could not see where the lake of Lungern was. The path suddenly turned right off the road and immediately went to a lungbusting gradient upwards of 14%. For two kilometres, having to regularly dance on the pedals as the gradient topped 16%, we puffed and panted before reaching the summit wth the Lake Lungern stretching out with high mountains at the far end. Across to our left side and in the distance, the main highway snakes across the pass. Once again, we were surprised at the low levels of water in the lake. There was an official swimming area with diving boards, wooden pontoons and water slides. However, they were at least 50 metres from any sign of water. We changed on the grass area before picking our way across rocks, mud and gravel to the water's edge. Another cold lake provided another refreshing 10 minute dip before changing and heading back exactly the way we had come. Descending a very steep country road after a wildwater swim is not the ideal way to warm up. Now with the wind behind us we flew back to the village of Wilen where we spotted a very steep unkempt road indicating the local swimming area. Still cold, I had now been abandoned by Mark to swim alone in the Sarnensee. The wind was also whipping the lake surface into waves. It was like swimming in the sea and equally exhausting. Relieved that I had managed to swim back to the shore without drowning, Mark advised that had spent the time wisely by checking his phone for places to eat. It was after 3pm and we hadn't eaten since breakfast. Just as well we had a road with a gradient of over 20% to push the bikes back up to the road. However, literally just round the next corner, a bakery come grocery store provided a meal of sausage rolls, cake and beer. Sitting outside the bakery to enjoy our food, another short sharp shower saw us running for cover provided by the entrance to the local church. Finishing up our beers, we set off again, conscious of the time and therefore turning the gas on, only stopping to watch helicopter maneuvers in the army base. Very impressive as the pilot practised dropping a heavy load carried below the helicopter on a harness. Continuing to head back on the same route and with the wind at our backs, we halved the time it took us on the outward journey.
Lessons Learned.. If you want to keep warm on a bike, don't swim twice in cold water within thirty minutes.
Andy's Blog: Day 27/100 - Trip 15
19 May 2021 - Lake Bienne (Bielersee) + Alte Aare
Bielersee + Alte Aare
Abandoned..all alone...no support today due to work commitments and concerns about weather..all poor excuses. However, the challenge must go on. Scanning the weather forecasts, I decided to head west to the Lakes of Biele (Bielersee), and the very interesting Alte Aare (more of that later). The lakes are numbered 10th and 67th on the list of the largest lakes respectively. Both Lakes lie in the Jura region and are on the language border between the French and German speaking parts of Switzerland. Ideal to practice my multilingual language capabilities..Not. The lakes lie approximately 40km northwest from Bern, the Capital of Switzerland. The Lake of Biel is known for St Peters Island which is not really an island but a promontory that runs out 7km into the lake from the southern end. Alte Aare is more river than lake but is classed as an Oxbow Lake because the original course of the Aare River was diverted through the Hagneck canal flowing into Lake Biel and from there through the Nidau-Büren Canal back into the old river bed. Check it out on a map.
Arriving at my starting point in Nidau on the northern edge of the Bielersee it was raining. Waiting for ten minutes under shelter for the rain to pass, I set off following the bike route number 64 along the edge of the lake before crossing the impressive Nidau canal and then heading east along the canal path through the port area and then out into the countryside. The canal systems have created a network of waterways used by commercial and pleasure craft alike, the port being the epicentre. Looking to join the Bike Route 44 and now heading south I picked up the Alte Aare in an industrial area in the town of Lyss. A lot of construction with signposted detours of the path sent me round in circles. The one benefit of riding alone, is that if you make a wrong turn, you do not suffer the moaning of your domestiques. Having gone round in a complete circle via gravel muddy footpaths alongside the Alte Aare, through an outdoor police dog handling training session (15 alsatians straining on leads ferociously barking at this intruder... I thought they were supposed to be well trained??) and arriving back at my starting point in the industrial area, I cycled into the town of Lyss and followed the road signs towards Aarberg, whose town had given the river its name, had been designated as my place for my first swim. Along the road, for approx 3km, I rejoined the bike path which ran along the river on one side and the main road on the other. Rode into the beautiful historic town of Aarberg whose cobbled main streets were lined with restaurants, cafes and local shops. Following the sign to the river, I crossed the main bridge before dropping down to a small park area, the lake/river meandering under a series of wooden bridges. The timing could not have been worse. Lunchtime, and the students from the local school were pouring out across the bridge. Realizing what I was up to, they gathered on the bridge to watch and cheer as I tentatively tiptoed into the water. The lake/river had quite a strong current with only about 1.5 metres of water depth with large rocks hidden on the riverbed. I suddenly found myself being swept downstream under the bridge, banging shins on the rocks and concerned that the river did not appear to offer a good place to exit the river. The school kids were definitely enjoying the spectacle and demonstrated their appreciation with synchronized bike bell ringing. Wanting to show my appreciation, I waved, at the same time, stubbing my toe which despite the pain, gave me a foothold to help me grab the bank and haul myself out. Show over, the crowd dispersed and I walked the hundred metres back to my bike and clothes. The sunshine was out and whilst changing and nursing my sore toe, considered stopping for lunch. However, still a long way to go, I headed off. Wrong decision because as I cycled out of town onto a very long flat road, the sun disappeared and the rain started. Fortunately, it only lasted about five minutes and was the only time it rained throughout the remainder of my journey. The road took me to the head of the Hagneck canal before turning south along a gravel and then asphalt path alongside the lake. I stopped to get photos from a small harbour and swimming area in the hamlet of Lüscherz. Back onto the road along the designated cycle path, I reached the end of the lake and followed the sign to Erlach, the village marking the entrance to St Peters Island. The compacted clay and gravel road that runs the length of the island with a loop at the far end that surrounds the monastery, was damp and by the time the monastery came into sight, I was covered head to foot in fine grey clay particles. I stopped once to explore a footpath that led to a bird watching platform which gave views of the wildlife that inhabit the reed bed bordering the majority of the island. Because of my state, I decided to give the monastery visit a miss, instead finding an almost hidden muddy path that led down to a small inlet on the lake side. Wading in, I swam out past the reed beds into the centre of Lake Biel to view the lakeside hills and towns. Back on the bike and looking even more like a clay moulding, I found a creperie alongside a fish restaurant. I ruled out the restaurant, choosing instead to sit on a bench eating a ham, cheese and egg crepe washed down with a beer. Moving on I once again picked up the cycle/footpath that runs the entire length of the western side of the lake. Interesting route; waters edge with small lakeside properties on one side, the railway with terraces of grape vines on the other. Conscious of time, I did not stop until I reached my starting point before changing my clay outfit for jeans and T-shirt and heading home.
Lessons Learned.. Experience shared with others is preferred to cycling alone, but the solitude of lone travel gives more time for thought and reflection
















































Andy's Blog: Day 28/100 - Trip 16
21 May 2021 - Gigerwaldsee (1st Attempt)
Gigerwaldsee 1
Apologies for starting this blog with yet another reference to the weather. However, it has been so unseasonably bad, that it is playing havoc with my planning. Checking the radar maps for rain coming thick and fast from the west, Mark and I headed east to the town of Bad Ragaz with the intention of cycling to Gigerwaldsee and back before the rain caught up with us. The Gigersee is a reservoir, ranked 68th largest lake in Switzerland, situated in the Canton of St Gallen lying at nearly 1400 metres above sea level. The Gigerwald dam is 147m high and was constructed in 1976. The small hamlet of St Martins at the end of the lake was our target as the very steep sides of the gorge on either side of the lake makes entry into the water for a swim almost impossible.
We set off in blustery overcast conditions but with hints of blue sky in the direction we were heading, through the picturesque town of Bad Ragaz. In simple terms, the route to the lake is a 20km uphill ride climbing over 900 metres. Immediately upon leaving the town, the road signposted Vadura ramped up to nearly 12% gradient, switch-backing round hairpin bends for a couple of kilometres before steadily climbing through beautiful woodland alongside streams and waterfalls. At the junction in the road we continued up towards Vadura where the gradient remained steep and headed through the gorge lined with tall trees clinging to the side of very steep drops on our right. We crossed a bridge which gave a wonderful view both up and down through the gorge. By now the sun had come out and despite the wind funneling through the gorge, we made good progress. The road then flattens before descending a few kilometres to the Stausee Mapregg, a lake (not one of the top 100) at the head of which, is a huge electricity generating station. As we cycled along the road bordering the lake, we noticed that the colour of the water intensifying from a blue grey to a brilliant blue colour. Again the road started to climb steadily before entering the small remote town of Vättis. The wind was gaining strength so we decided to find a sheltered spot on the terrace of the local Hotel Tamina where we had coffee and the local speciality, Nüss Honig Törte (Nut HoneyTart). Chatting with the lady who served us, we found out that the local paper was reporting that the road by the Gigerwaldsee had been closed due to rock falls and snow avalanche. Undeterred from this news and still confident of achieving our goal to swim, we rode up the last couple of kilometres before the huge dam wall came into sight. The wind had dropped again and the sun was now shining giving great views all round. The road snaked up through a tunnel hewn through the rock to the top of the dam. Amazing sight. The height of the dam combined with the low volume of water heightened the perspective of the enormity of our challenge to get a swim. The sheer sided scree and rock lined areas down to the lakeside, workman giving warning glances together with the road closure barriers made us realize that our swim would have to be abandoned for today. Even if the road had been open, the water levels did not reach round to St Martins which was the only safe place to attempt a swim. However the views and the excellent bike ride compensated for the disappointment that a day had been wasted with regard to the challenge. One other point of interest was a strange art form that was hanging in one of the caves on the right side of the dam. What looked like naked cave women figures had been hung on a line stretched across the entrance to the cave with cavemen on the ground below looking up. The artwork was called Der Fänggätanz or The Catch Dance. Apparently the "little" men were very faithful unlike the "little" women who danced to attract men. The men got so jealous that they would sometimes die from cancerous disease.
We got back on the bike and rode back through the tunnel down the hill to the restaurant Berggasthaus Gigerwald where we enjoyed a local Weißbier and Älplermagronen. The owners who have taken the restaurant for the summer period invited us back for the official opening on June 13th (if water levels rise, I plan to accept the invitation and go back to swim and then party). Retracing our route back down the fast descent, we took a left turn by the electricity generating station and headed up a rise to another remote village Vasön before descending at pace across an impressive concrete bridge that spanned the entire gorge. The wind was so strong now, it was very difficult to hold onto the bike.. squeaky bum time! Finally back in the town of Bad Ragaz, we purchased a Nut Honey Tart from a local baker as a memento before heading home. I am looking forward to returning to complete this stage of the challenge.
Lessons Learned.. check local information about the area you are proposing to visit before setting out!
Andy's Blog: Day 31/100 - Trip 17
24 May 2021 - Lake Wohlen (Wohlensee) + Niederriedsee + Lake Morat (Murtensee)
Wohlensee + Niederriedsee + Murtensee
Public Holiday to celebrate the Christian Religious Day of Pentecost. Therefore our starting point of Bethlehem seemed appropriate; Bethlehem in Bern that is. We had promised our families that we would be back relatively early... mid afternoon at latest. With that in mind myself with today's domestiques Simon and Mark, set off at 7am from home and 8.30am from Bethlehem. The weather was once again cloudy, windy and chilly. Not the most ideal conditions to tackle the Wohlensee, Niederriedsee and Murtensee in one day. Both the Wohlensee and Niederriedsee are reservoirs and situated in the Canton of Bern, the Murtensee, a natural lake located in the Cantons of Fribourg and Vaud. The Niederriedsee is formed by the Niederried dam on the River Aare. As the water is forced through small openings in the dam and then turns 90 degrees, the lake has been formed alongside the river by the creation of two small inlets of land and now acts as a nature reserve. The lakes are the 30th, 82nd and 14th largest lakes respectively.
Riding out of the concrete suburb of Bethlehem, we quickly picked up the bike path and were soon in the countryside riding on a mainly gravel path catching glimpses of our first lake through the houses. The gravel path continued beyond the end of the rows of houses before snaking down and around the lakeside. The path suddenly turns upwards across a wooden bridge with several stepped levels. Pushing the bike to the top we cycled along the road until we reached the large hydroelectric plant that straddles the end of the lake near to Muehleberg. Obviously nowhere to swim there, so retracing our route back up the hill, we spotted a grill area down by the lake approached by a footpath. The Wohlensee appeared to be popular for rowing with several crews out on the water practising. Not so good at this time of year for swimming. The water was unsurprisingly chilly, but the surface was covered in a lot of vegetation debris, dust, dirt and midges. Out, dried but still slightly dirty we progressed back to the power plant and then took the cycle path past a Nuclear power plant towards the Niederriedsee. Before we found the lake we found another power plant alongside a very powerful release of water from the dam that signaled the start of the Niederriedsee. Following the road slightly away from the dam, we found a spot to change and swim (despite the sign advising the contrary), before Mark who had decided not to swim at this time, advised that this was still the River Aare and not the actual lake. I still believe that this spot is part of the overall lake... but I bowed to the knowledge of the adjudicator. This advice would cost us more than an hour in time. Pulling bike gear back on, we made our way back to the dam where we found a footpath (no cycling) that led round a part of the lake where no-one appeared to go... with the exception of a few wizened old men sitting in a hut having a few morning drinks. (it reminded me of the banjo scene in the film Deliverance). Continuing for a few hundred metres, it became apparent that there were no clear areas to get into the water. The water was also a little stagnant with a strange colour at the edge. (Simon pointed out that this was probably due to the number of power plants in the area including the nuclear plant and promptly decided that he would also not swim). However, a challenge is a challenge and with the other two keeping watch, I changed into Speedos and tiptoeing through prickly vegetation, I crawled into the water through many submerged branches and sticks before finally releasing myself from the tangle into open water. I do not deny that this was a quicker swim than normal. Clambering out with slightly scraped and battered feet, I changed and we headed on picking up the road to Kalnach before turning south toward our next stop, Murten. We took the cycle path alongside the road that was very straight, very flat and into a strong wind but still keeping a good pace... it was the only way I was able to try to get warm. We finally came along the lakeside road into the medieval town of Murten which is perched above the lake. We found a swimming area and the three of us changed for our final swim of the day. There was a beach area inhabited by swans and a colourful duck with a red beak (later identified as a Red Crested Pochard) - it was good to swim in a designated area for a change. Back on the bike and up a steep cobbled hill to an impressive building with an archway under which we cycled through to the cobbled main street. It was lined with coffee shops and restaurants, all of which had terraces that appeared full, despite it being still cloudy and chilly. (Covid still prevents indoor dining.). We found the Restaurant Eintracht covered in foliage decorated with geraniums and were offered the last table in an underroof pedestrian walkway. Not an ideal place but the reluctant decision to stay was completely exonerated by excellent service and a great meal of asparagus soup followed by entrecote steak in a piquant sauce with French fries washed down with a couple of Erdinger Weissbier. However the time was now past 2pm with still a good 90 minute cycle back to Bethlehem. Weighed down with the lunch, the first hurdle was a steady but what appeared to be a long climb up the hill out of the town. Finally the terrain flattened and we used the lunchtime fuel to work as a team to push along at a good speed, the roads through pretty towns before coming into the outskirts of Bern and back to our starting point and our homeward journey finally arriving home three hours later than promised.
Lessons Learned: Go into the lake at the first opportunity... you waste a hell of a lot of time looking for somewhere supposedly better
Andy's Blog: Day 33/100 - Trip 18
26 May 2021 - Schwarzsee + Schiffenensee
Schwarzsee + Schiffenensee
The beautiful area around the city of Fribourg just south of the capital Bern was the chosen bike and swim route planned for day 33 of the challenge. So far, I have completed 31 lakes, so needed another two today to keep on track. The Schwarzee lies about 25 kilometres south of Fribourg, the Schiffenensee about 4 kilometres north of the city centre. The Schwarzsee (Lac de Noir) is a small lake, ranked number 90 largest, situated in the Canton of Fribourg, lying at an altitude of just over 1000 metres above sea level in what is known as the Swiss Prealps or foothills of the Alps. The much larger Schiffenensee, listed as the 25th largest lake, also in the Canton of Fribourg is an artificial lake created in 1963 by a barrage or barrier across the River Saane.
Our starting point was in the small hamlet of Räsch just north of the city of Fribourg. The planned route would take us west before turning south avoiding the city to the first lake before returning on a circular route that would take in the sights of the City before heading to the lake in the north and then back to our starting point. The route planned was to be a relatively modest length of just over 60km with 750 metres of climbing.
We set off and followed a mixture of small farm roads and country lanes, through remote hamlets and farms before taking a more main road signposted Schwarzsee. It was a relatively straightforward ride but the wind was very blustery making riding tricky especially on the more exposed flatter roads. Spotting a photo opportunity of a house surrounded by a large eclectic collection of gnomes, artwork and animal models, he indicated that he was stopping. Unfortunately, he forgot to unclip out of the pedals and with a look of complete surprise, toppled gently into the middle of the road. First accident on the tour!! Fortunately the elderly driver of the car that had been following us had slowed and now looked on with bemusement as Mark gingerly picked himself off the tarmac and inspected himself and the bike for damage. The saddle had been knocked 45 degrees out of alignment and there was small damage on the brake handles. Fishing out a multi purpose bike tool, I managed to realign the saddle and with the photos duly taken and with Mark nursing a cut elbow, we set off again. The road started to gently climb towards the small town of Alterswil, then flattened before climbing again for about 4km. The terrain once more flattened and we then spotted the magnificent church spire which marked the centre of the small town of Plaffensei. As we rode into the town we were engulfed by a couple of hundred children also walking down the main pedestrian highstreet. For such a small town, there were a lot of kids..we do not know where they came from. We admired the church before heading back onto the road that now started to seriously climb towards the lake. About three kilometres up the hill we passed a bus stop and once again were amazed at the number of children pouring down the hill presumably to catch the bus. The road up to the lake winds alongside the Warme Sense river that flows down from the Schwarzsee. We noted again that the river water levels were relatively low. Mounting the rise at the top of the climb we had to cycle on the flat for a further kilometre before the lake came into sight. The weather which until now had been blustery but with some sunshine, turned to much stronger winds with low dark cloudy scudding across the lake. The lake is very beautiful with hills and mountains at the far end with fields and woodland ring fencing the far end of the lake. Reed beds providing cover for wildlife were dotted along the water's edge. Normally, it would be a very enticing lake for a refreshing dip after a sweaty bike ride. However, with the air temperature barely into double figures and the wind whipping the surface of the lake into a surfers paradise, Mark decided that he would decline to swim in this lake preferring to swim in the second lake of the day. This left me to strip off in the biting wind and wade across a very shallow incline covered in sharp pebbles and rocks until waist deep before plunging into what was like swimming in the English channel in November. After the customary ten minute swim my feet numb from cold and bruised by pebbles, I emerged, glad that this particular swim was over. At the head of the lake overlooking the water, there is an attractive but modern restaurant with a terrace. Unfortunately it was also facing directly into the teeth of the wind. We therefore cycled back into the small village and found a cafe whose terrace was sheltered from the wind. Another great result.. the best cherry cake I have had in many a long year with a good cup of coffee that warmed me slightly before the fast descent back down the hill to the town overflowing with children, my hands now like blocks of ice. We noticed the bike path signed to Fribourg and although it was not exactly on the direct route it took us through woods, remote farms and hamlets that one would normally never see or visit. The only downside was that it included several short but extremely steep hill climbs. reaching a junction by the road and realizing that continuing on the bike path would add another ten kilometres to our route, we took the more direct way until we came into the city of Fribourg. Modern in the outskirts with a very attractive old town centre we followed another bike route that took us through the pedestrian centre. It was now after 2.30pm and we were looking for a quick lunch stop. There were many areas for outside eating, but we stopped at a place called Le Brunch that advertised itself as a wonderful beer place. We ordered a couple of local Blanche beers before being informed that lunchtime had finished and the kitchen was closed. However, our waiter offered a plate of cheese bread and meat. It was great, quick and very tasty. The place inside looked like a great venue for a few beers with a huge beer menu, large leather sofas and a relaxed atmosphere... we are going back when restrictions are lifted. Mark commented that the pedestrian area reminded him of the architecture in Newcastle in the UK. We were now running even later, so headed off following the bike route that led us to the old stone viaduct spanning the river. Carrying the bikes up the stairs we then cycled across the covered bridge and marveled at the stone archways which gave us the first sight of the lake and river below us. Carrying the bikes back down the stair on the opposite bank we found the correct road that led us firstly uphill before turning left down a steep asphalt road that turned into a gravel slip road to a small mooring area under the new and very blue painted road bridge way up above us. Looking at the water, this was definitely the dirtiest waterway we had swum in to date. Both of us quickly waded in submerging ourselves keeping eyes shut tightly, we swam out towards the first bridge pontoon before turning back, getting changed and within another ten minutes back out our starting point and home.
Lessons Learned ... a mystery to be solved.. how can such a small and uninhabited area have so many children congregating in one place, and where did they all come from?
Andy's Blog: Day 35/100 - Trip 19
28 May 2021 - Amsoldingersee + Lake Thun (Thunersee) + Lake Brienz (Brienzersee)
Amsoldingersee + Thunersee + Brienzersee
Amazing... sunshine, cloudless skies and warm conditions. Apart from the first day of the challenge and our trip to Ticino, I cannot remember another day where the weather has been good. Time to make the most of it. I was joined today by regular domestique, Mark and our webmaster, Peter. Our meeting and starting point was close to the lake of Brienz. The planned route of approx 70km was to ride beyond the lake of Thun to Amsoldingersee heading back on the opposite side of the Thunersee finishing at the lake of Brienzsee. All three lakes are situated in the Canton of Bern in the Bernese Oberland. The Brienzsee and Thunersee lie east to west and side by side separated by the town of Interlaken. The Amsoldingersee is a small lake close to the town of Thun which lies at the western end of the Thunersee. The lakes are ranked 98th, 14th and 12th largest respectively.
We set off taking the cycle lane alongside the busy main road which fortunately only lasted for about 2km before taking the much quieter lakeside road that runs right along the waterfront. The backdrop view on this ride is amazing with the Bernese Alps fringing all three lakes. You pass through small villages along the lake before turning up a steep hill towards the town of Spiez. For a small town, it boasts a huge railway station as it is the connection point for trains going to Bern, Zurich and the towns within the alps. Cycling through we continued uphill before taking the indicated cycle path towards the village of Amsoldingen. The route takes one completely off the beaten track through farm and woodland, the highlight of which is a very high metal bridge that spans the gorge through which the Kander river runs to the Thunersee. Looking down through the grilled metal surface of the bridge to the river way below, certainly can cause a small sense of vertigo. We arrived in the very pretty village of Amsoldingen with a beautiful church and houses with very well tended gardens. Turning down a narrow gravel path towards the end of the lake, we realised that to get in for a swim was going to be a challenge. The walking path that circumnavigates the lake runs about fifty metres from the waters edge, which is hidden from view by thick hedges, trees and undergrowth. We spotted a potentially very muddy area under some entangled branches and I managed, with several scrapes, to barge my way to an area on the lake side. The next challenge was to get through the water lilies that grew from the lake shore out towards the centre of the lake. This lily area was only interspersed with tree branches that dipped into the water. My colleagues decided that this was a one man challenge and so wading in ignoring the potential danger that getting my legs entangled in lily roots could bring, finally got out into clearer water to actually swim. The best way to describe it was like a beautiful duck pond, ideal for ducks, not for humans, but was the warmest lake by far that I had swum in todate. Climbing out with half a ton of vegetation still attached round my waist, I cleaned up and we set off again. We found a coffee shop next to a small supermarket in the next town where we were sustained with milky coffees and nuss cakes. Realizing that our adventures in the first lake had set us behind schedule, (as usual) we pressed on until we reached the much larger town of Thun. Thun straddles the river Aare at the head of the lake, the banks of which are lined with cafes, restaurants and sitting areas which give fantastic views of the mountains and of course the lake. We crossed the main bridge and turned right heading along the lake shore looking for a place to stop, swim and have lunch. We came across a small pontoon belonging to the hotel Belvederethat was next to an Italian Restaurant whose terrace reached down to the water's edge. Ignoring the private signs on the pontoon, Mark and I jumped into the very clear blue waters for a very refreshing dip. Changing, and into the restaurant, we secured a table by the water, ordering the Schneider Weisse beers for an aperitif and seafood risotto washed down with a bottle of rose for main course. The food was good, but in comparison to our Italian meal in Ticino, not in the same league, but still good. Feeling slightly heavier, we set off and continued along the busier road back towards the town of Interlaken. We were so weighed down that we were overtaken by a single cyclist!! Spurring us on, we used the calories to catch him before settling in behind him to get the draft. He carried us for a short time before we let him go. The road snaked upwards and ran above the lake alongside the steep rocky cliffs. Back down and through the town of Interlaken we came upon a beach area that was situated by the Interlaken ferry that travels across the lake of Brienz. The gently sloping beach provided the perfect end of ride swim before returning to our starting point and then home. We celebrated a great day by joining friends in the evening with a fondue over an open fire.
Lessons Learned.. getting off the beaten track, you see some amazing sights and visit places that you normally would not even consider going to. Oh and that cycling in sunshine is wonderful
Andy's Blog: Day 38/100 - Trip 20
31 May 2021 - Lake Gruyère + Lac de Montsalvens
Lac de Gruyère + Lac de Montsalvens
Alone again for the second time on my challenge but buoyed by blue skies and the lure of the beautiful Lac de Gruyère and Lac de Montsalvens. Both lakes are reservoirs situated in the Canton of Fribourg, the lake of Gruyère running north to south between the two cities of Fribourg in the north and Bulle in the south, and the lake of Montsalvens lying to the east of the southern tip of the Gruyère lake. It is located on the road at the beginning of the Jaun Pass that rises over the mountains to 1500 metres connecting the towns of Charmey in Canton Fribourg with Reidenbach in the canton of Bern.
I set off from the small village of Villars-sur-Glane just south of the city of Fribourg. Nothing major to report for the first 18 kilometres with the exception of the route taking me to the entrance of the Cistercian Abbey Hauterive which is close to the Sarine river. The abbey looked beautiful from the gates, but what was concerning me was the very rocky, very steep path that I needed to take to get back to the road. Suitable for a mountain bike, not so good for a road bike. Hoping beyond hope that I did not get a puncture, I huffed and puffed my way up the path before finally levelling out and with relief back onto the road. Following the fairly busy A road that shadowed the main highway for about 15 km, the gradient rises steadily for about 3km before turning away from the main highway where one gets one's first glimpse of the beautiful lake stretching out through countryside with snow capped mountains in the distance. Continuing along the road, I gladly turned off the main road onto a small country lane that took me through the village of Echarlens before descending to the lake shore. The only route along the lake shore was a narrow footpath, but I was rewarded when after about I km of squeezing past walkers, I found a very small beach area with a fire pit and logs to sit on; an ideal place for a swim, which I took full advantage of. The lake water was clean and refreshing and after changing back to bike gear, continued along the footpath. The path led through woodland, again, better suited for a mountain bike, for about another kilometre before ending next to a road bridge that crossed one of the many streams that feed the lake. The road then leads one through beautiful woodland before surprising emerging out of the woods to an industrial unit with two factories of the major Swiss chocolate manufacturers, Nestle and Cailler side by side. Cailler is the oldest producer of chocolate in Switzerland, founded in 1819 and bought by Nestle in 1929. Original train carriages that brought supplies to the factory were outside the main gates and were the starting point for the factory tours that were in progress. Passing by the factory, the road returned back into the woods and climbed very steeply for about a kilometre before coming out by the sign indicating the start of the Jaun Pass. The beginning of the pass is a steady climb on a main road with cycle lane for about 5km during which one gets the first sighting of the Lac de Montsalvens below one on the right. As the road flattened I once again realized that this lake was going to provide difficulties to get into. From where I stood, I could see almost the entire lake surrounded by steep woodland right down to the waters edge. I retired to a local cafe, Restaurant de la Tour, to consider my options over a cappuccino. I decided to follow the country lane that circumnavigated above the lake with the hope of finding a path down to the water. The road around the lake is a beautiful ride on almost deserted lanes through woods with the sound of streams and waterfalls in the background. However, it remains high above the lake with no sign of any route downwards. After about three quarters of the way round, there was a right turn towards a barn converted restaurant. I took this road cycled past the restaurant and down a "private" road that descended to the top of the dam. At the side of the dam there was a few disused stone steps that lead to a stony, weed covered area against which water, full of tree debris, broken branches and twigs lapped. I changed into the speedos and with not insignificant effort, waded through the mass of wooden splinters until I was swimming and having to create a path through this morass until I finally reached clear water. It wasn't the cleanest water, but I still swam round in a circle to complete the almost obligatory ten minutes before repeating the process in reverse to finally climb out onto the bank. Cleaning myself off as best as I could, I got back on the bike, back up the road and finding a free table on the terrace of the restaurant, ordered a beer to wash down the lake water. I ate a good plate of macaroni with cheese and ham and then set off to complete my circumnavigation of the lake which led me back to the starting point of the Jaun Pass. Following the road signposted toward Fribourg, it led me through towns and villages but, as it was another A road, fairly busy. Once more I was glad to reach the northern end of the Gruyère lake where I could turn left onto country lanes. Once off the main roads, I have to say how beautiful the rolling countryside and farmland is in this area. Going through the village of Marley, the landscape started to become more built up as I entered the outskirts of the city of Fribourg. The route led me towards the centre of the city before turning south again and back to my starting point. Because of my detour around the lake, the final route distance was just over 80km. Perfect..
Lessons Learned.. Get off the beaten track to really discover the beauty of the countryside












































Andy's Blog: Day 42/100 - Trip 21
4 June 2021 - Lac des Taillères + Lake Neuchàtel (Lac de Neuchatel)
Lac des Taillères + Lac de Neuchatel
Big group today. Mark, Didier, Richard, Jeremy and Lena, Jeremy's wife. This was the first away day planned for the trip. Two nights on the Lake of Neuchatel with the prospect of a 100km ride with 2000m of climbing to swim in the Lac des Taillères round in a loop back to swim in the Lake of Neuchatel on the Friday with a similar distance and climb on the Saturday to swim in the Lac des Brenets, Lac de Moron and the Lac de Biaufond. We had this trip booked for three weeks earlier, but bad weather caused us to postpone. The forecast was better than previously, but rain was still forecasted for Saturday. Lac des Taillères is a lake in the la Brévine valley in the Canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. It is one of the smaller natural lakes (numbered 89) situated at just over 1000m above sea level slightly southwest of the Lake of Neuchatel on the border with France. It is known as little Siberia due to it being one of the coldest places in Switzerland at comparable elevation. Lake Neuchâtel is a lake primarily in the French-speaking part of Switzerland. The lake lies at about 350metres above sea level mainly in the Canton of Neuchâtel, but is also shared by the Cantons of Vaud, Fribourg, and Bern. It is the largest lake whose perimeter lies completely within Switzerland, but only ranked number three in order of complete size behind Lake Geneva (shared borders with France) and Lake Constance (shared border with Germany).
We were booked into the two star Hotel du Lac in the historic medieval town of Grandson which boasts the 2nd biggest castle in Switzerland. We agreed to arrive at our hotel on the Thursday night, to have dinner and an early night, to be ready for an early start on Friday morning. Of course, on our arrival we hit the bar before heading out to a local restaurant on the lakeside. A good meal of octopus and steak washed down with both white and red wine and a digestif of more beer back at the hotel, the early night had gone out of the window. Didier had told us he would arrive late due to a work commitment, so it was with some concern that, waking in the morning, I read a message from him that he had been unable to get into the hotel. Feeling slightly fuzzy, I headed down to breakfast to find Didier telling everyone who was prepared to listen about his visit to the Champions League final in Porto. He had obviously found the code to gain entry (albeit after some time). We agreed to all meet in front of the hotel at 9am ready to leave. Calling Didier at 9.15am to remind him that we were waiting, he finally appeared at 9.25am and we were off. Immediately on leaving the hotel, the road kicked upwards and remained at an average 8% climb for over 14km until we reached the village of Mauborget. It was a slow but steady ascent stopping regularly for photo opportunities of the great views of the Lake of Neuchatel below us. The road then flattened and remained undulating through woodland and open meadows before descending at speeds above 60km/hr down a winding road whose surface was a little bumpy.. clenched cheeks. The road brought us down to the very picturesque town of Couvet where, just over an old bridge, we stopped at a cafe situated above the river. A beautiful spot matched by the excellent coffee and cakes.. Back in the saddle again we had to regain the lost height of 500 metres up to the top of Mont Brenin (1270m). The weather had steadily improved all morning and by the time we went through one of the tunnels hewn through the cliff rock face singing "We are the Champions" we were biking in brilliant sunshine and temperatures over 23 degrees. Round the peak and with another small descent we came to the small town of St Brevine before turning left for a couple of kilometres before the Lac de Tailleres came into view. A very flat lake with only small banks surrounding the water. Before changing, I presented Didier a belated birthday present of a pink microfibre beach towel to replace the oversized flannel that he has been using to date. There was much relief by all that he no longer exposed himself during swimwear changes. All changed we gingerly waded across very sharp stones into the refreshing water temperature at about 15 degrees. 20 minutes later we were back out, changed and on the bike back to St Brevine where we found a terrace restaurant in the town square for lunch. A meal of lasagna and a couple of local Weissbiers and we were back on the bike. The route now undulated for about 20km along the top of the ridge before turning right at La Chaux de Milieu to Les Ponts de Martel which signaled the start of a long descent down one of the Tour de France ascents. Very fast with Richard and Jeremy both exceeding 80km/hr. My steady 70km/hr took a couple of minutes longer into the town of Bole where we stopped to admire the residence of Richard during his time spent working in Neuchatel. Muscle cramps in some prompted a stop at the local pharmacy for magnesium before continuing down until we reached the lake shore and headed along the bike path until we reached Bevais where a sailing club with a boating launch area provided the perfect place to change and dive off the metal mooring platform into the beautiful blue clear water. By the time I jumped in, most of the group had swum and were out capturing photos of me being attacked by a swan who thought I was threatening its chicks. Some found it hilarious,, I found it quite unnerving until the swan moved off and I swam fast back to the shore. Settled by a beer from the terrace bar we set off to complete the final 25k back along the main road to the hotel. Mark had arranged to meet a friend who lived locally and decided to get a lift back. The remainder of the group really hammered it, averaging a speed of 35km/hr over the final stretch. Back at the hotel, a quick turn round and out to a restaurant by the castle where, once Mark and friend Eric joined us, we again enjoyed another fine meal with wine and absinth (local producer nearby). Good preparation (not) for another supposed early night to ensure we were fresh again for tomorrow's ride.
Lessons Learned... People in a group revert to type... Didier late, Jeremy putting the world to rights, Mark does have other friends, kit man Richard, looking cool in his matching Rapha gear, Andy leading from the back (avoiding ear ache)
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Andy's Blog: Day 43/100 - Trip 22
5 June 2021 - Lac des Brenets + Lac de Moron + Lac des Biaufond
Lac des Brenets + Lac de Moron + Lac de Biaufond
Following the great day with the group, todays planned route was a similar distance of 100km and another 2000 metres of climbing to swim in Lac de Brenets, Lac de Moron and Lac des Biaufond. Lac des Brenets is a lake on the Doubs River on the border of Switzerland and France, Lac de Moron is a reservoir formed by damming the Doubs River north of the Lac des Brenets and Lac de Biaufond is an artificial water reservoir on the border between France and Switzerland. The lakes were numbered 66, 69 and 95 in size respectively and lie north west in the Jura hills from Neuchatel.
Woke up to the sound of pouring rain. The group met for breakfast with the excuses starting, from I have got a couple of emails to do this morning to have to get back home to meet friends for hiking training?? Mark, who was supposed to be playing tennis in Gstaad, announced that his tennis match had been cancelled and was willing to join the ride depending upon a reduction in the planned length of route and only if the weather showed signs of improvement. Mark and I bade farewell to the rest of the group and headed off to our agreed new starting point at Les Vue des Alpes. What a misnomer... Les Vue des Alpes was in low cloud, the rain continued to fall and the wind was howling across the small village. Mark advised that he would follow me on the bike but in his car! However the weather radar App suggested that if we travelled on to the next town, the rain would stop in the next 10 minutes. The next town was La Chaux-de-Fonds and as we arrived, the rain actually stopped!! This new starting point would reduce the route to about 60km but still with over a 1000m of climbing. Considering the road to La Chaud-de-Fond had been up a long climb through country lanes, the town was surprisingly big and industrial. We set off along a very straight busy main road towards the town of La Locle which is renowned as the centre of the watch making industry. Through the bustling town, we stopped to take photographs of the beautiful and very striking church, the grounds of which were hosting a flea market. Back along the main road and spotting a sign towards Les Brenets we turned right at a set of traffic lights and were amazed by the dramatic and immediate change in scenery. In front of us was a huge cliff wall of granite rising high above a bridge that spanned a massive tree covered gorge below. The road snaked ahead through rough cut tunnels through the rock which led us into open countryside with the gorge heading off into the distance to our right. The route suddenly descended and we caught our first sight of the Lac de Brenets which is actually part of the Doubs River. We headed down towards the lake and once came upon the familiar problem of where to get in and out of the water. we decided to go down the side of a restaurant with terrace that overlooked the water. Steps to a boat mooring area which also acted as a ferry stop gave access and changing I went down the slippery concrete steps and into, not the cleanest looking water. Swimming around and keeping an eye on other ferries that seemed to use this spot as a drop off and pick up point for passengers, I made my way back to the mooring point. After changing, we had a take away coffee on the terrace before setting off again following the path that ran alongside the river. The path suddenly turned a corner and the gradient went to 25%, lifting the front wheel of the bike. Fortunately it only ran for about 100 metres until we got back onto the road, where a man stood watching and chuckling at our exertions. Unable to speak for several minutes, we rolled gently down the slope before picking up a gravel path indicating a mountain bike route that wound its way towards our next lake. Stunning is the best word to describe the next few kilometres. It is incredible how one finds a new natural wonder around every twist and turn of the river. Dramatic cliffs, towering rocky cathedrals, woodland with glimpses of small pebble beaches. And the best is kept until last - the Saut du Doubs, a 27 metre (90 feet) high waterfall. We almost didn't bother to go down to the waterfall because the path was not ideal for bike shoes. Steep, muddy, rocky but worth the effort with the fabulous view. We had now been travelling along this gravel path for about ten kilometres before the river widened to indicate we had reached the Lac de Moron. A couple of hundred metres down a steep rocky path, we came upon the dam which formed the lake. Warning signs of turbines caused us to walk a little way back where we had spotted a moored boat by a very small pebble beach area. After crashing about in woodland, Mark discovered steps down to the mooring in the undergrowth and having then changed into speedos, we both swam in the refreshing and much cleaner water. Once out, we explored the electrical works around the dam before heading back up the rocky track back to the slightly less rocky gravel path which then started to climb at an average gradient of about 6% for over five kilometres. Riding a light precision road bike uphill over rocky gravel is quite exhausting so we sighed with relief when we reached the road at the top of the hill. Unfortunately, we then immediately started to descend fast down a hairpin lined road for about 8km losing all the height we had just gained ending in the very small hamlet of Biaufond and the lake, spanned by an iron bridge that crosses from Switzerland into France, a customs building on the Swiss side, incongruous in this picturesque setting. It was now 3pm in the afternoon and after the morning clouds we were now bathed in bright warm sunshine. Speaking of bathing, I found another small patch of grass and nettles that led down to some rocks that gave passage into the water. It was horrible. A, it was freezing cold compared with the other two lakes upstream and B, there were a mass of what looked like underwater fir trees that lay about half a metre below the surface of the water as far as the eye could see. My legs kept getting tangled in the fronds and after a difficult circuitous route towards the centre of the lake, clambered back out with relief. Energy was now at a low ebb having had no food since breakfast, and with the prospect of having to climb back up the hill we had just descended, we cycled to the restaurant that was situated at the lakeside further along the road. It was shut.. misery. We steadily climbed back up the long drag which is obviously used for races as there were distances to the top and gradient signs at each kilometre. However, we made it and over the hill we descended back into the town of Chaux-de-Fonds where we found a bistro in the pedestrian area in the old town. We were then told that the kitchen was shut for lunch and not open yet for dinner. However, very kindly, they prepared a platter of meat, pickles and bread served with a couple of beers which, with the background music of a couple of excellent street buskers, we were revived for the journey home.
Lessons learned... one can still be amazed by stunning scenery in areas that one would normally never visit.. especially if one is easily off by the prospect of bad weather...go and do it anyway
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Andy's Blog: Day 47/100 - Trip 23
9 June 2021 - Lac de Verbois + Lac Brenet + Lac de Joux + Lac de Bret
Lac de Verbois + Lac Brenet + Lac de Joux + Lac de Bret
A big couple of days to get me back on track with seven lakes to be swum in two days. My friend and domestique, Mark had business in Lausanne which is situated on the Lake of Geneva. Because the lakes on the west and north of Geneva are widely distributed, I decided upon cycling alone from different starting points with the aim of meeting Mark in the evening and then travelling to a different area the following day to cycle as a pair. First day was to bike and swim in Lac de Verbois, Lac Brenet, Lac de Joux and Lac de Bret. Lac de Verbois (sometimes known as the Barrage de Verbois) is a lake created by a dam across the river Rhone situated west of the City of Geneva. It is ranked 58th largest in Switzerland. Almost due north of Geneva are Lac Brenet and Lac de Joux. Lac Brenet is a lake in the Vallée de Joux, canton of Vaud, Switzerland and is the 72nd largest lake. It is located north of the Lac de Joux only 200 metres away, both lakes located in the Jura mountains. Lac de Joux is the 19th largest lake and is the largest lake in Switzerland over 1000 metres above sea level. The final lake of the day, Lac de Bret is located above the town of Lausanne in the municipality of Puidoux, canton Vaud. Weather forecast which proved to be accurate was cloudy to start, improving throughout the day with a chance of rain and thunderstorms towards evening.
My first starting point was in Meyrin, close to Geneva airport. Set off following excellent bike paths that ran alongside the main road out of the built up and industrial area that surrounds the airport, and out into countryside towards the town of Satigny. Continuing on following the signs to Russin before turning left and heading down towards the lake. It is a strange location. A huge dam with construction work taking place along its span, alongside a power plant and incineration plants on one bank, with a nature reserve on the opposite bank. The water had a strange gunmetal gray colour with a lot of waste vegetation congregating in large areas close to the dam. There was no obvious place to get in to swim. I took a small gravel path that led into the nature reserve, before finding a muddy path to the waters edge between two reed beds directly opposite the power plant. Changing I tentatively waded into the water, before taking a deep breath and plunging in. The water had a very greasy feel and I was pleased to be able to climb back out onto the bank noticing several slimy areas clinging to my body. Wiping off and getting changed I headed across the dam and looped round through the very pretty village of Peney Dessous (you would not know that there was heavy industrial plant on the lake less than 1 km away) back to the road and retracing my route back to Meyrin. Onwards to the next phase of the day. My next starting point was at the beginning of the Regional National Park of Joux near the small town of Cossonay. We had already cycled the previous weekend in this region, so it came as no surprise to immediately start climbing through woodland which continues with occasional flat areas of countryside before climbing again. And just when you reach the summit, in this case at Pre de Joux, you start descending, losing much of the height you had gained before starting another climb that this time took me to the village of Le Pont which is situated on the small stretch of land separating the two lakes. Cycling along the promenade of Lake de Joux decorated with flower boxes along the railings, I chose one of the many small pebble beaches for my swim. Some thoughtful person had arranged a few chairs under the promenade wall which made changing easy and I was able to enjoy a leisurely swim in water that was still classed as a bit chilly. Once changed and with only a three minute cycle to the next lake, I passed a very nice looking hotel Hotel de la Truite with an outside terrace full of customers. Ideal for a spot of lunch. But before that, another swim. Lac Brenet was completely different from Lac de Joux. Almost deserted with a small area of grassland leading down to reed beds stretching around large areas of the lake side. A bench looking across the lake provided a place to change in front of a gap in the reed beds. Wading through squelching mud, I finally got to waist deep water in which I was then able to swim out past the reeds towards the middle of a very pretty lake but with little evidence that one would be able to walk round the circumference, much less be able to swim from any other area to the one I had entered the water. Returning to the water's edge and wiping the mud from the knees down, I dressed and cycled back to the hotel, where I enjoyed a dish of pasta with a whole melted cheese and salad. Local beer in this area is blanche. Slightly fruity which complimented the meal. After lunch, I took a circular route through very similar but beautiful countryside and woodland back to my starting point. Nothing to note except how peaceful the area is. Now down to my final destination; The Hotel Lavaux in Cully on the shore of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) about 5km west of Lausanne. I checked in and then prepared for my final bike to the Lac de Bret. On the route map, it was only about 15km round trip. I asked the receptionist how easy was it to get through the vineyards that covered the hills behind the hotel. She looked quizzically at me and said "by bike"? I confirmed and she said, "I am sure it is possible but"... and didn't finish her sentence. I took that to be positive and set off along the lakeside road for no more than 200 metres before turning left to find the avenue blocked by about 50 metres of steps. I checked the route map again but there did not appear to be any other way, so carrying the bike I climbed up many steps to the start of one of many vineyard roads that crisscross the hillside. Road is an exaggeration.. more like very rough broken up concrete. Weaving through the potholes and cracks, I turned the next corner to find the "road" rising ahead at a gradient of over 25%. One of the vineyard workers who had just finished work, chuckled and wished me good luck. Pushing the bike up this gradient in bike shoes for more than a kilometre zig zagging through the vine fields so you could never assess how far you still had to go, the road finally started to flatten out to a more reasonable gradient of 16%!! Cycling up on the pedals through the houses that fringed the top of the vineyards I finally came to the main road. Despite feeling that a heart attack was not far away, I peddled down the main road before heading into the countryside once again up a steep incline before finally reaching the lake. There is a stone wall that surrounds much of the southern part of the lake with neatly manicured grassland amongst trees leading up to several large houses that have wonderful views down the entire lake. I found a bench and changed although it felt like I was changing on someone's front lawn. There was a family who were obviously moving into one of the houses, who, together with the removal men, stopped their box carrying to watch this strange guy stripping off in front of their new home. And it was now raining.... I found stone steps down into the water and swam in the increasingly heavy downpour. Lightning in the distance persuaded me to keep the swim relatively short and pulling damp cycle gear back on, I retraced the route, this time only risking the potential to go over the handlebars on the "roads" through the vineyards before getting back to the shelter of the hotel and a good shower. The rain had now stopped and meeting Mark, we wandered down to the banks of Lake Geneva where we found a lakeside restaurant to enjoy an evening meal of Moules Mariniere and a glass of wine.
Lessons Learned... no matter how close you are to industrial areas, you are never far away from the beautiful countryside.. just need to get out and you will find it
Andy's Blog: Day 48/100 - Trip 24
10 June 2021 - Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) + Arnensee + Lac de l'Hongrin
Lake Geneva + Arnensee + Lac de L'Hongrin
Woke up in the hotel Lavaux to sunshine and a cloudless sky. Plan for today was to walk down to the Lake of Geneva, swim, and then set off to do a round cycle trip starting in Gstaad and swimming in the lake of Arnensee and Lac de Longrin which are on either side of the range of mountains of which the Gummfluh is the highest. Route planned was about 85km with about 2000m of climbing. Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) is the largest lake in Switzerland Lake shared between Switzerland on its northern shores and France. It is crescent shaped with the city of Geneva on its western tip and Montreux at the east. Arnensee is a reservoir lake in the Canton of Berne, located in the municipality of Gsteig lying 1550m above sea level and ranked 92nd in size. Lac de L'Hongrin is also a reservoir but located in Canton Vaudin Vaud. It is known for its two huge arch dams Hongrin Nord and Hongrin Sud, completed in 1969.
The shores of Lake Geneva close to the hotel are dotted with beautifully maintained open areas for recreational purposes. Very quiet on the Thursday morning with a lone lady practicing her yoga enjoying the breathtaking view over the lake towards the French Alps. Changing and wading into the clear blue refreshing water (temp around 15 degrees), both Mark and I swam for about ten minutes before changing, a quick walk to the hotel and into our respective vehicles for the drive to Gstaad. Only one word to describe the journey.. stunning. Through gorges, with glimpses of high snow capped peaks round every turn the road winds up and then down until it drops into the centre of Gstaad, this very stylish Bernese Alpine town. The first thing we noticed was the bright blue team bus and support vehicles of the Astana. We assumed that this was a training area ahead of the Tour de France. After a few photos, we got the bikes ready and set off heading south climbing steadily towards the village of Feutersoey where we knew we would have to turn off towards our first lake. However, as we left the town, we spotted more and more professional cycling team vehicles. Of course.. Tour de Suisse King of the Mountain stage starting in Gstaad. We had not gone more than 5 kilometres, when the first of an army of police motorcyclists roared along advising everyone to clear the streets. We stopped and watched as, first, the race directors went through in their sponsored cars followed by the race police motorcyclists, followed by about 150 cyclists going uphill at a similar speed that we were used to descending at. THe support vehicles loaded with spare bikes then came through and within five minutes, the entire cavalcade had gone. Mounting our bikes we were encouraged up the increasingly steep gradient by people who had lined the road to watch the race. Nothing to report except for the stunning views until we reached our turning towards Arnensee where the road narrowed and after about one kilometer we came to a barrier. Walkers and bikers can go up to the lake free, cars have to pay. Going round the barrier, Mark said that he had a problem with his bike. The lowest gear was not engaging and the chain kept slipping off. With the gradient experienced so far, this might not have been a major problem (except he would have had to work harder) but the gradient quickly went to 14% then 15% in the first two hundred metres. The average gradient for the ride to the lake is 12%. He pretended to be a bike mechanic for a few minutes with me watching on, giving encouragement that he could fix it, and then to his and my surprise it worked, albeit now with a slightly noisy chain. We set off... the climb is one of the steepest I have done over the 5km from the barrier to the lake. Twice the gradient reaches 19% with very few flat areas. It was beautiful though, the gorge rising steeply with fast flowing streams and waterfalls carving its way through the woodland on our left. More than a little exhausted, we reached the top of the road and were rewarded with the view of a blue lake surrounded by snow capped mountains. There is a small camping area to the left side of the lake supported by a traditional wooden restaurant and outdoor terrace. We changed and slid into what was the coldest lake of our trip so far. 6 degrees that took my breath away, but after a couple of minutes, the cold water helped to soothe the aching muscles. After the swim we took a coffee and a huge slice of nut cake before hurtling back down the path until once more we were back on the main road. By now the time was nearly one o'clock but with the cake still weighing us down, we assumed that there would be a cafe or restaurant at the next lake where we could eat a late lunch. The road undulates for about 15 kilometres, before the route map took us right up a steep rough asphalt farm track. It seemed to go on and on.... no, it did go on and on. Eventually we came back to the main road where, by an Army barracks, a path to the lake was signposted. We finally came over the summit and down below us stretched the Lac de L'Hongrin with its two impressive arched dams in the distance. We dropped down until we were about 40 metres above the lake but could not see where we could get down to swim. Repair works to the equipment controlling the flow of water down the outflow stream at the head of the lake were in progress and following a gravel path, we found an area where by scrambling down a scree slope we reached the water's edge. A quick dip and then a climb back up the scree to the bikes and to the service road. Up the service road alongside a very deep gorge, we finally got back to the barracks and set off along the main road to complete the final thirty kilometres. Again nothing to report except that we stopped near to the town of Saarnen at an interesting old church and monastery. The church had a wooden arched roof and I remember the organ being disproportionately large compared with the size of the church. Probably to drown out the off key signing of the congregation. Back to Gstaad where we went past the luxury goods stores that lined the main street to the Rialto Restaurant and Bar where we finally got our pasta lunch at 6pm. Excellent service and good food. The weather had been glorious the whole day and we now enjoyed our food and beer as the sun started to sink watching the pedestrians go by. One note for the journey home. Went via Thunersee where the tunnels on the highway were shut, sending us round the opposite side of Brienz. Then the tunnels were closed in Lungern and the highway closed going into Luzern. In addition they were rock blasting on the top of the Brunig pass which caused a delay of nearly half an hour. It's amazing how many people were working on the infrastructure during the night. Got home very late after what should have been a two hour journey took nearly three and a half. But still it did not diminish the memories of a great day.
Lessons learned - I want to go back and do the ride again, but this time in the full knowledge of the adage, climb, climb, climb and when you think you have reached the top, climb again.. be prepared!
Andy's Blog: Day 51/100 - Trip 25
13 June 2021 - Lake Davos (Davosersee)
Davoseree
Firstly, a big thanks to Jeremy who kindly allowed me to stay in his apartment in Klosters for a couple of nights to allow me to complete nine lakes in three days in the Graubunden area. He joined me for the first couple of days. See the next blog.
We decided to travel to Klosters on Sunday afternoon and bike to Davosersee which is relatively local to Klosters. Davosersee (Lake Davos) lies at nearly 1600m above sea level in the Canton of Graubunden about 15km and 500 metres higher from Klosters.
As we prepared the bikes for departure, Jeremy asked the classic wrong question; "Have you had a puncture so far on your challenge". Tempting fate. Leaving Jeremy's there is a steep but short climb to the main road to Klosters. The weather was perfect, sunny but not too warm in the late afternoon. 15 minutes later, as we approached Klosters, Jeremy asked whether I noticed whether his back tyre was pumped up correctly.... sure enough, a puncture. (First on the tour). His bike had tubeless tyres but he had no fluid injection to fix it. Replacement with a standard inner tube was OK apart from the gungy mess that exudes on removing the tyre. However, within 20 minutes Jeremy had the puncture fixed with my bike tools and my encouragement and we were back on the road. Nothing major to report, except that the road up to Davos is a steady 10% gradient for about 6 km. It was under renovation, and the rutted concrete made riding uncomfortable. At the top however the road surface was perfect and we descended for about about a kilometer before reaching the lake. Lake Davos is one of the smaller lakes (number 77 in the ranking) with a gravel and sometimes paved path running around the complete area of water. We headed for the Badi (swimming area) in the far corner. Beautifully manicured lawns led down to the water's edge with pontoons for boat moorings, beach volleyball courts, and an outside bar and
grill area with seats, provided great facilities for the people enjoying the Sunday evening sunshine. Stripping off we waded into the coolish water and swam for about 10 minutes. Changed and taking a seat at the bar we ordered a beer, supping whilst looking at the fantastic view of the Graubunden mountains that surround Davos and beyond. With the prospect of watching Euro football in the evening, we climbed back on the bike and headed back exactly the same way, the only downside was the unmade road surface which jarred the bike and body alike as we descended at pace. Good warm up for the forthcoming much tougher rides.
Lessons Learned... Careful that you do not tempt fate by talking about potential bike problems
Andy's Blog: Day 52/100 - Trip 26
14 June 2021 - Lai da Ova Spin + Lago di Livigno + Lago Bianco + Lago di Poschiavo
Lai da Ova Spin + Lago di Livigno + Lago Bianco + Lago di Poschiavo
Woke early in preparation of a long day to bike to and swim in four lakes. I hadn't done more than three lakes in one day previously and experience had shown that it is not the biking that adds time, it is the swimming especially if one needs to find a suitable place to get in, so today was going to be a real challenge. The plan was to take the bikes on the train from Klosters to Zernez and then ride and swim to Lai da Ova Spin, Lago di Livigno and then ride through Italy before heading over the pass back into Switzerland to Lago Bianco and finishing with a swim in Lago di Poschiavo and then taking the train back to Klosters. The key to achieving our goal was to catch the 11.35am bus connection (not allowed to bike) through the Munt La Schera Tunnel that links the Engadin Valley in Switzerland to Livigno in Italy. The estimated route was 85km with nearly 2000m of climbing. Lai da Ova Spin, (ranked 100) the smallest lake on the challenge, is a reservoir on the Spöl river near to Zernez, Grisons in the Canton of Graubunden lying at an altitude of 1630m. Lago di Livigno is a reservoir in the Livigno valley. The reservoir is mostly in Italy whereas the Punt dal Gall arch dam is crossed by the border with Switzerland. It is the 24th largest lake. Lago Bianco is a reservoir at the Bernina pass in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. It has an elevation of 2,234 m and lies south east of Livigno. Continuing further south back towards the Italian border lies Lago di Poschiavo, which is a natural lake in the Val di Poschiavo in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. It is well over 1000m lower than Bianco at 962m.
I am always impressed by the efficiency of organizing travel with bikes on trains. The service at the ticket office in Klosters was simple and easy, with the lady behind the counter switching between Swiss German into perfect English when my almost fluent German (cough) faltered. As the train pulled into the station almost to the second on time, the guard alighted to show us the correct carriage for loading the bikes on. One quick change of train with no problems, we arrived in the small town of Zernez. The weather was already very warm despite us being at an elevation of 1400 metres. We set off and immediately the very smooth tarmacked road led us up an almost continual gradient of about 9% into the surrounding mountains. After about 45 minutes of continual climbing to a height of about 1800 metres we spotted the striking milky blue waters of the Ova Spin lake between a forest of pine trees about two hundred metres below us. On the right, a road signposting the Ova Spin Electrical Works, snaked down towards the northern end of the lake. Jeremy said he was not going down there as he did not want to climb back the 200 metres we would lose. To his credit, the main road started to descend and at the far end of the lake after looking in vain for any path and with me thinking we would have to go back to the works site, he suddenly stopped at the roadside by a footpath signpost. The path was steep, very narrow, very rocky and tree rooted and definitely not suitable for bikes. We therefore locked the bikes together and changing footwear, set off on foot. After about a ten minute walk downhill, the path levelled but still we were 30 metres above the water. Spotting a pebbly area on the waters edge, we took an off piste route scrambling down rocks through the trees (Jeremy tried a bit of rock climbing down, I decided not to follow, preferring to walk a little further along before finding an easier route). Stripping off, Jeremy waded in au natural, followed by me wearing my Speedos into the very cold water. 6 degrees maximum, but a wonderful experience in incredibly coloured water. Back out and changed, we then walked 20 minutes back to the bikes and set off again, the weather now getting hot. The walk and swim had taken almost an hour and we now had to hurry to catch the Tunnel bus. Fortunately it was only about two kilometres and all downhill and we arrived with 15 minutes to spare. The bus collection point is alongside the Swiss border control. The tunnel has only a single lane and the traffic is controlled by red and green lights changing every 15 minutes. Therefore at 11.30 we expected the bus to appear but no sign as the lights changed once more. Finally at about 11.55 the Italian bus appeared. During our wait, an Italian cyclist had joined us and advised with plenty of gestures, that our quest to swim in Livigno was impossible... no water. The journey through the very dark, single lane rocky roofed tunnel was accompanied by the Italian driver in conversation with our cyclist friend, also making gestures and commenting on mad English people wanting to swim in Livigno. Still shaking his head, he unloaded our bikes at the Italian border and departed with a final shrug and gesture towards the completely dry side of the dam. Fortunately we could see water ahead of us, albeit at a very low depth. The difference between the Swiss and Italian side was stark. The Swiss border guards diligently stopped every car, checked papers and contents of vehicles. There was no one at the Italian border! The road alongside the lake is fast and interspersed by many tunnels cut through the rocky outcrops. As we cycled through these tunnel we were passed by several groups of very fit, thin, tanned young Italian cyclists, all chatting like crazy as they hammered past doing over 40km/hr. In the distance we could see a small scrubland area with a potentially less steep rocky gradient to the water. We stopped, changed shoes again and scrambled down the scrub covered and scree filled slope to what was a very murky lake. Because it was relatively shallow, the water temp was relatively warm but swimming through the muddy water was not that pleasant. However, lake swim completed, we headed to the sleepy Alpine town of Livigno. It is a popular ski area in winter but little appeared to be happening in summer. (apart from a lot of construction work). We found the Pizzeria Sportin, its outside terrace occupied by workmen and other cyclists passing through, where we had a couple of paninis washed down with a small beer. Very tasty and good service. Leaving Livigno, the road climbs steadily for 16km from 1800 metres through stunning mountain scenery to just over 2200m before dropping down to 2000 metres, then turning right and climbing again for another 6 km to the summit at 2315m where the Lago di Bianco comes into view. The name, White Lake, is called that for a reason. Even in mid June with high temperatures, the lake was still partially covered in ice and snow which was in contrast to the very blue water. Beautiful but freezing. We discovered this by crossing the railway line at station Ospizio Berlina and heading down the dusty track to the waters edge, we slid into the lake next to an underwater ice shelf. Having not swum in ice water since January, my hands contracted into a claw like grip and my feet went numb almost immediately. We did swim but only for about three minutes before staggering out, shaking our arms vigorously to encourage blood re-circulation. Now for the downhil... 23km of white knuckle ride descending over 1100 metres at speeds reaching 80km/hr.. amazing ...until we reached the town of Poschiavo, the location of our final lake. We decided to turn off the main rouad to explore the town, and were rewarded by cycling though one of the prettiest town squares I have ever seen. Pink and yellow painted hotels and restaurants with outside terraces decorated with flowers and shrubs surrounded a cobbled courtyard. Definitely a place to bring a loved one for a weekend. Onwards through the town to another beautiful blue water lake with lawns and gently shelving small gravel beaches. However, no time to dawdle, we still had a train to catch, so with a quick dip, we headed to La Prese station closest to the lake, where we caught the Bernina train (highest railway in the alps) which takes one back over where we had just cycled giving fantastic views as it meanders up back up the mountain pass. Three hours and two changes of train later, we arrived in Klosters at about 8.30pm where we met Mark who was joining us on the trip the following day. We enjoyed pizzas and beer at a local restaurant before getting back into cars to head back to Jeremy's place for the night. Now dark, Jeremy, spotting Mark and wanting to let him know to follow, hooted his horn. The horn stuck and continued to blare out across the sleepy town, arousing neighbours and eventually the police. Jeremy drove to a local campsite where it would not wake the townsfolk, just the campers. It was deafening. Trying to fix the problem with no tools failed, but a call to the TCS bore fruit, when a local fireman arrived and proceeded to work on the problem. Police arrived to question Jeremy (we kept a discreet distance away, pretending not to know him) before suddenly the noise stopped. Phew. Back to Jeremy's, one more beer, catch up on football and bed.
Lessons Learned.. Jeremy has amazing balance on his bike going up steep hills.. anybody else going that slowly would fall off. Apart from that, go and visit the area of Graubunden.. stunning
Andy's Blog: Day 53/100 - Trip 27
15 June 2021 - Lai da Marmorera + Lake Sils (Silsersee) + Lake Silvaplana (Silvaplanersee) + Lake St Moritz (Leg da San Murezzan)
Lai da Marmorera + Lake Sils + Silvaplanersee + Lake St Mortiz
Third day of our stay in the Graubunden region. Plan for today is a 70km ride, about 1500m climbing and to swim in four lakes. Three of the natural lakes lie almost next to each other in the Upper Engadin valley in a northeast to southwest direction, Lake St Moritz at the top, Lake Silvaplana in the middle and Lake Sils at the end of the trio. The fourth lake, Lake Marmorera, is located due west from St Moritz over the Julier Pass. Lake St. Moritz also known locally as Lej da San Murezzan is bordered by the town of St Moritz and ranked number 63rd in size. The lake is the smallest of the three in that part of the valley and lies at an altitude of 1768 m above sea level. It is renowned for holding sporting events on its frozen surface during the winter months, such as polo, horse racing and even cricket. Lake Silvaplana also takes its name from the town Silvaplana that borders the lake. A much larger lake (number 33), it is popular for water sports especially wind and kite surfing. Lake Sils is the largest of the three lakes (the 28th largest in Switzerland) and regarded by many to be the most beautiful of the three, due to its location within larch forests that attract walkers and those who are looking for tranquility. Lake Marmorera however is a reservoir created during the 1950's after the old village of Marmorera was flooded. The 49th largest lake in Switzerland, it is part of the Parc Ela nature park.
Our starting point today was from St Moritz and without the pressure of time to catch trains, we had a slightly later, more relaxed breakfast. However, Jeremy suddenly announced that he was feeling the effects of the last two days on the bike and would not be joining Mark and I on today's ride. Therefore we moved all the gear from Jeremy's car to Mark's vehicle and set off for the 90 minute drive from Klosters to St Moritz. The weather again was glorious and upon arrival we found a parking spot at the north end of the lake. Looking around unsuccessfully for a coffee shop to get a caffeine hit before our ride, we set off through the town before taking the upper road that leads through woodland above the lake rather than the slightly shorter but much busier road that runs alongside the lake. Undulating, the road leads past the St Moritz lake to the small town of Silvaplana that lies above the lake that gives it its name. Going up the hill through the main street we turned right to the small road signposted to the Julier Pass, however there was a sign to indicate that the road was closed. Unsure whether this applied to bikes, we retired to a small bric a brac store that also sold coffee and having bought a coffee, ascertained from the owner that the road was indeed shut and we would have to go back and through the main tunnel. We already knew that it was illegal to cycle through the main tunnel. Ignoring both the advice of the shop owner and the sign by the road, we maneuvered around the small barrier and headed up the steep but short road that was indeed under construction, until we came to the main road emerging from the tunnel. The first few kilometres of the Julier pass is typical of many passes. A well maintained road that is at a consistent gradient of about 10% meanders through woodland until, after a few kilometres, you rise above the tree line and into mountain scenery. The roads then tend to have more hairpin bends to compensate for the increase in incline, which can be a little dispiriting when you can see the cars and trucks on the roads way above you and you still have that distance to go. However, one keeps the pedals turning and after about 6.5km of continual climbing, a large modern square tall rust coloured building on the summit came into view and within a few more minutes we were pulling into the carpark full of motorcyclists, drawn to the passes by the thrills of hairpin riding. A quick chocolate bar from the small cafe to replenish energy and then the 10km exhilarating descent, marred only by the thought that we were going to have to return back over this pass. Hurtling through the village of Bivio at the base of the climb, we tried to spot a good place for lunch that would follow our swim. Onwards until the road started to climb again until the Lake of Marmorera came into view. Another stunning looking lake with clear blue waters surrounded by woodland and a dam at the far end of the lake. As per normal, the question of where to get into the lake. There was a service gravel road down towards the lake but we could not see where it went. We decided to head for the dam even though it was another 5km further. However the road continued upwards and it became quickly obvious that from this height, it was going to be very difficult to get down. Turning round we decided to chance our luck, turned round and cycled down the gravelly road. We were rewarded as, going round a sharp corner, the road went right down the lakeside. There were even a couple of fishermen there, grilling their catch. Always good to surprise the local fisherman.. two foreigners appearing on road bikes to disturb their tranquility and then jumping into the water disturbing the fish. Another cold lake but beautifully clear and so peaceful you could hear the sound of the waterfalls cascading into the water right along the lake. Climbing out and negotiating the steep gravelly path back to the road we headed back to Bivio, where the one popular restaurant was full and the only other one we could find was for inside eating only. On such a beautiful day, we decided that, despite it now being two o'clock, we would head back to the cafe at the top of the Julier pass, grab a sandwich and then eat a main meal when we got back into St Moritz. This time the climb was 10km and the hairpins were even tighter and more plentiful than our ride up from the other side. Finally at 3 o'clock we once more hit the summit and grabbed a sandwich to eat in at the tables that spread across the carpark. The elderly lady who was serving in the cafe, asked from which side we had come, and having explained that we had just swum in Marmorerasee, she told us that she had been born in Marmorera and had never moved further than this pass in her entire life. Back on the bike, and once more flying down the mountain until just before the tunnel, took the turn through the construction area and down to the Lake of Silvaplana. Turning right, we headed along the busy main road for about five kilometres before turning to our left at the head of the lake of Sils. BAck on peaceful country lanes, we crisscrossed the landscape before finding a grass path that took us to a small mooring area where we enjoyed a very pleasant swim. As all three lakes are so relatively close together, we retraced our steps until we spotted a sign for a water sports beach area and turned into a well maintained grass and sports area, I went in for my second dip in 30 minutes. Both lakes had been cold, so by the time I finished my swim, my fingers were numb and I was starting to shiver despite the warm late afternoon sun. We decided not to take the main road back to St Moritz, preferring the unmade road surface of the lakeside paths. Took slightly longer but much quieter. Back in St Moritz, we found a bench, alongside a dead squirrel, obviously a casualty of the recent mowing of the long grass that had taken place that afternoon. I was glad when the final swim of the day was complete and we returned to our starting point and set off back to a camping site with a restaurant on the shore of Lake St Moritz. Excellent choice of venue.. brilliant staff, excellent fish and chips and they sold Schneiderweiss beer. The air was getting cool so we took our food inside to watch the football before heading back home.
Lessons learned.... I don't recommend swimming in three cold lakes in wet speedos in less than one hour. However, we had seen more of the world in one day than the lady who had served us in the cafe in her lifetime. She was very content though .. maybe there is something in staying local
Andy's Blog: Day 59/100 - Trip 28
21 June 2021 - Räterichsbodensee + Grimselsee + Oberaarsee (1st Attempt)
Räterichsbodensee + Grimselsee + Oberaarsee 1
Day 59 and still trying to stay ahead of the curve by biking to and swimming in the Räterichsbodensee, Grimselsee and Oberaarsee. The planned route, whilst not very long at around 80km was going to be tough as we would have to climb between 2,500 and 3000m. The starting point was in the small mountain village of Realp at the beginning of the Furka Pass which climbs for about 13km to a height of 2431m before dropping down 700m to the town of Gletch before the climb up over the Grimselpass at a height 2164m dropping down to the first two lakes before climbing back to the 3rd lake and returning by the same route to our starting point. Räterichsbodensee is a lake in Guttannen, Oberhasli, Switzerland. The reservoir is at 1767m. It is connected to the river Aare. The Grimselsee or Lake Grimsel is an artificial lake near the Grimsel Pass in the Canton of Berne at an elevation of 1908m.With a volume of 95 mio m³, it is larger than other hydroelectric reservoirs in the region: Oberaarsee, Räterichsbodensee and Gelmersee. Oberaarsee is a hydroelectric reservoir in the Grimsel area, part of the municipality of Guttannen at a height of 2303m above sea level.
Simon and Mark agreed to join me on the challenge today. Simon kindly agreed to drive me with the plan to meet Mark in Realp. At 7.15am he was knocking on the door and after loading bikes and gear, we set off. The drive was relatively uneventful especially as Simon told me that he had done this trip so many times he knew it like the back of his hand. Therefore I would have liked to have checked his hands as he completely missed the turning that would take us to Realp and we found ourselves going through the 16km Gotthard tunnel to the opposite side of the mountain range that we were supposed to be in. It was Simon's 58th birthday the following day, so I put this lapse down to the natural aging process. Assessing our options at the far end of the tunnel, we decided to head over the magnificent Gotthardpass rather than back through the tunnel. Fortunately we had set off early so when we finally arrived in Realp we were only fifteen minutes late. Tyres pumped, we set off and immediately hit the climb up over the Furkapass. The weather was very pleasant and very soon we discarded the bike jackets and set into a rhythm that would take us up the winding, hairpinned interspersed 13km ride with a steady gradient of about 8%. This route is also called James Bond Strasse as it features in the Bond movie, Goldfinger. Stopping for several photo opportunities, I started to fall behind Simon who led the way up and kept passing Mark and we swapped positions going up the hill. Finally after about 75 minutes we hit the summit and stopped at a cafe for coffee and gipfeli (croissant). The road continued relatively flat for about one kilometre before the descent down the Furka and, in the distance, our next climb over the Grimsel pass came into view. The Grimsel pass is an amazing twisting pass around many hairpins rising about 650 metres. Before that we descended at speed down the Furka, realizing with every metre down that we would have to climb back on our return journey, and it descends about 700 metres into the village of Gletsch.
When you arrive at the village of Gletsch from the Furka, the road splits between the road to Brig to your left and the Grimsel Pass to your right. From both passes you get a spectacular view is of the Rhone Glacier, the source of the Rhone river. Turning right therefore, I decided early on, not to let Simon get ahead. I watched from behind as he slipped into a higher cog to maintain the lead, but unable to keep up the pace, I passed him and accelerating away, I zigzagged all the way up the pass until reaching the summit ahead of both him and Mark. I would pay for this act of competitiveness later in the day. The weather had now changed with black clouds threatening rain. At the top of the Grimsel, it was like entering a world of ice and snow. The small lake at the very summit was still almost completely frozen which did not bode well for our planned swims in the three larger lakes lying just over the summit. Mark arrived at the top and announced that he would forgo the downhill descent and then the ride back up from the Grimsel and Räterichsbodensee, preferring to sit in the local restaurant with a coffee. Thinking that we would only be an hour, Simon and I set off and heading down the hill, the two huge dammed lakes came into view. Checking on Google maps that we had the correct two lakes, the problem of getting into the Grimsel lake took our full attention. Snow covered steep banks dropping about 50 metres stretched as far as the eye could see made us question whether a swim was possible. However, we hadn't come this far to be deterred and climbing over the fence that lined the road, we left the bikes perched precariously at the top of the incline and slipped down the slope until we reached a rocky area at the lake side. Small icebergs floated on the water in front of us and then it started to rain. Perfect conditions for a summertime bathe. Stripping off, Simon slid first into the water, swearing profusely at the shock of the ice cold water. I took responsibility to capture this moment on the iphone, before Simon climbed out and now it was my turn. Pain surged through hands and feet as I slid into the water and trying to catch my breath, swam with very fast strokes round in a circle before finally clambering out of the 2 degree water. The only way to deal with the pain in my limbs was to shout loudly and wave hands up and down. Unbeknown to me, Simon was capturing this comical act on video. He also captured my ascent back up the snow, climbing on hands and knees. With still freezing hands and feet, we had the next swim within 20 minutes to look forward to!! Down the steep road descent, to the huge dammed Räterichsbodensee, the sheer cliffs around this lake would give a bigger challenge. Lifting our bikes over the road barrier onto the top of a scrub and bush lined cliff, we left the bikes, and scrambling through bushes we found that we could descend albeit through water falls on our right and the sheer drop into the lake on our left. We finally came upon a path that led us down to a rock strewn shore, where we repeated the pain exercise (sometimes called swimming) that we had experienced in the Grimselsee. Changing, shivering and wet from the drizzling rain, we climbed back to the bikes and then started the 400m climb back up to the restaurant where Mark was waiting. The expected one hour wait was closer to two. Ordering a welcome lunch of pasta Napoli and a small beer, we sat inside watching the weather deteriorate further. Clouds were down blocking the vista and the constant rain beat on the windows. During our swim Mark had explored the route to our final lake only to find it blocked with a heavy iron gate with a no entry sign fixed in the middle. The rain was turning to a drizzle, so ignoring Mark's comments we decided to check it out for ourselves. Sure enough, there was the gate but there was an access path to the side and so wheeling the bikes around the gate we set off. The narrow road climbed steeply before we came across the second barrier, a chain across the road. Lifting the bikes over the chain, we continued for another 400 metres before passing another No Entry sign, workman ahead. The work crews suddenly came into view and we had to accept defeat. Mud and rock slides were blocking the road. Disappointed but buoyed by the fantastic views afforded from this small, almost unused road, I realised that I would have to come back at a later date. We returned to the top of the Grimsel and with the weather now improving, we set off at speed down the hairpins back to the town of Gletsch. The long climb back to the top of the Furka now awaited, and Simon was in no mood to let me get anywhere near his back wheel; he was off. We slogged up the long climb into the teeth of a strengthening wind before stopping at the first restaurant on the top to wait for Mark. We still had a short climb, but Simon kindly offered to ride out front as a windbreak. Within a few minutes the windbreak had gone... he obviously remembered the Grimsel climb from the morning and that experience was not going to be repeated. Hurtling down the other side of the Furka we finally got back to the cars. After changing, we headed into Andermatt for a beer before heading for home. One final point of note, on the way back as we approached Zug, the roads and surrounding field were completely white with hail, tree debris scattered everywhere and the smell of pine sap in the air. Dips in the highway were now full of water with the odd car bathing with the water level to the windows. By having that beer in Andermatt, we had missed one of the worst storms of the year.
Lessons learned... more research required into roadworks on the high mountain passes required before setting off and that the weather is very localized.
Andy's Blog: Day 62/100 - Trip 29
24 June 2021 - Lago di Lucendro + Lago della Sella
Lago di Lucendro + Lago della Sella
The route planned for today was to start in Andermatt and ascend the Gotthard pass where, just below the summit, we would take the cobbled and gravel road up to the Lago di Lucendro before heading back down to the summit of the pass and then to go in the opposite direction up the the Lago della Sella. Because of the road conditions up to both lakes, we chose to use mountain bikes for today's trip. Lago di Lucendro is the larger of the two lakes (ranked 79th) at a height of 2131m is a reservoir east of the summit of the St. Gotthard Pass in the municipality of Airolo of the canton of Ticino. Lago Della Sella (numbered 91st in the top 100 list), is also a reservoir lying at a height of 2255m about 7km from Lucendro directly west on the opposite side of the St. Gotthard Pass. Mark was joining me as domestique of the day. The forecast for the morning was generally dry with the occasional shower, but the afternoon was for rain and strong winds. Therefore, to get the two lakes completed, we decided on a relatively early start, meeting at the train station in Andermatt. Rain greeted us as we arrived, so a coffee and croissant in the station buffet café whiled away some time until the rain had almost stopped. Half an hour later than scheduled we set off riding out of the town and then turning left along the flat for about 4km. As the road started to climb we went off the main road through the pretty cobbled streets of the village of Hospental until rejoining the main Gotthardstrasse towards the summit of the pass. Apart from the occasional stop for roadworks, we ground up the 10km climb until just before the summit where we took the mountainbike signed cobbled path to the right. The weather until now had been cloudy but bright. However the dark clouds hovering over the mountains ahead threatened rain. Zigzagging along the cobbled road which runs along and under the main road before turning away and upwards along a gravel track where we had our first full view of the giant edifice that was the Lucendro Dam. There is a Hospitz hut (for overnight shelter just below the dam. The steep path was obvious to the huit but beyond that there appeared to be no way to get to the top of the dam. However on approaching the Hospitz, the road went round the back of a rocky outcrop and rose very steeply allowing us to bike up on the pedals to the top. Once more, we were both very impressed by the sheer magnitude of the construction and of the beauty of a steep sided, snow, rock and bogland leading down to the water's edge. Again the problem was going to be how to get into the lake, as we were at least 50 metres above the surface with no obvious paths downwards. We cycled along the rocky, puddle riddled path which took us through a couple of rough tunnels as we headed towards the far end of the lake. Unsurprisingly, there was absolutely no-one around. Complete isolation, that is until we came round a corner to find a small blue Fiat car blocking the path with a man trying to clear a small mudslide. He nearly had a heart attack as we announced our approach. I could see the man jump even as I was a little way behind Mark. We edged around the car, through the mud and in a short time were by the main river/waterfall that fed the reservoir from the far end. The colour of the river water was a turquoise blue, indicating ice-water. Oh good, this was going to be a very cold swim and to add to these thoughts it started to gently rain. We found a mossy, boggy sort of path and cycled downwards, the bikes occasionally sinking into the boggy water until we reached rocks. Dismounting, changing shoes, we clambered down to the water's edge. Mark decided that he would skip the swim, so changing I slid into the very clear and very cold water. Pain is the only description I can find to describe the experience. My hands and feet immediately locked into claw-like positions (normally when I ice swim in winter I wear neoprene boots and gloves.. and now I realized why this made sense). Swim as vigorously as possible in a smallish circle, I hauled myself back onto land. Whilst the experience caused the endorphins to race around my body, I would have preferred to have taken Mark's option, but knew that in less than an hour I would be repeating this exercise. Returning the same way, we noticed the Fiat had moved, but there was no sign of the man. We looked around for him but never saw him again. Hope he was alright? Back down past the Hospitz and crossing the wind turbine strewn landscape of the top of the Gotthard, we went past the Restaurant that sits on the summit, before taking the rough asphalt path towards Lago della Sella. By now, the clouds were very low and although the rain had stopped, it was a very gloomy landscape. The second lake is higher than the first and therefore the climb is longer which helped in a small way to warm me up from the first swim. The Lago della Sella dam matched the gloomy atmosphere. It was a grim, slightly ageing, greenish concrete wall rising up into the cloudy mist. Same issues... nowhere obvious to get into the water so after about a kilometre of riding around the lake but gaining height, not losing it, we turned round and leaving the bikes at the top, scrambled down under the shadow of the dam. The water was crystal clear. Definitely the clearest lake water I have swum in during the challenge so far but also the coldest. Even colder than the first lake and Lake Bianco which had been 100 metres higher and the coldest lake before this one. Exacerbated by still feeling a little chilled from the first, I struggled to get my breath under control . Mark, who had decided once more to not swim, captured this on video. You can hear him chuckling in the background. Relieved I was still alive, I crawled out from the freezing water before doing a shimmy dance on a large rock to get the blood flowing again. Changed and back in the saddle, but now with rain starting to get heavier, we decided to descend as fast as possible and have a late lunch back in Andermatt rather than stopping in the Restaurant on the Gotthard. The descent was painful on hands, knees and feet and the rain got heavier and lashed into our faces as the wind picked up. My hands were locked to the back when we finally got back to the Andermatt station car park. A complete change of clothes out of the sopping wet lycra, helped to warm us back to some sort of normality. Heading into town and back to the same place we had enjoyed a beer earlier that week after our Furka ride, we ordered beer and Bratwurst and Pommes. Great meal and good service. Back in the car and home.
Lessons learned... 5mm neoprene boots and gloves make ice swimming positively easy compared with bare feet and hands
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Andy's Blog: Day 63/100 - Trip 30
25 June 2021 - Gigerwaldsee (2nd Attempt)
Gigerwaldsee 2
I do not plan to write an extensive blog as this was my second attempt at the Gigerwaldsee and the route was exactly the same. The previous time had been five weeks earlier, but Mark and I had been thwarted in our efforts to swim by rock and snow avalanches that had blocked the road around the lake to St Martin which had been deemed to be the only place to be able to get into the water.
This time, I had three different dometiques including two first time supporters on the challenge. Frank, Reto were Challenge virgins, but it was good to see the old hand Didier make a welcome return. Weather was similar to the previous ride; sunshine, some clouds coming across periodically to cool one down and a strengthening wind that made the descent in the afternoon a little hazardous.
It was a good group effort, with regular stops to ensure that we all remained reasonably close together. The final wait was at the tunnel that signaled the entrance to the top of the dam. The first thing I noticed upon riding across the dam was the water level which was significantly higher than on my previous visit which bode well that this attempt to swim would be successful. However, there was still no safe place to get down to the waters edge close to the dam, so we set off along the narrow road that skirts the lake. It is an interesting ride as one needs to go through a series of dark tunnels, roughly hewn through the rock, with torrents of water pouring seeping through the roofs of the tunnels, thereby giving one a cool shower as one passed through. Fantastic views of the gorge that changed as you exited each tunnel together with high waterfalls cascading down, provided excellent photo opportunities. The only thing missing was a clear path to the lake side and as we approached the end of the lake, the water ran out. Rocks, vegetation and mud that ran alongside what was clearly the river that fed the lake but it did not classify as the lake itself. We were in for a rocky hike along the riverbed. Leaving the bikes and changing shoes, we clambered, stumbled and picked our way across rivulets that finally, after a couple of hundred metres, led us to the start of the lake. Stripping off, Didier and I swam in the coolish water, Reto paddled to his thighs and Frank dipped his toes into the water which was being stirred up by the entry of the river. The swim was not easy because the current created by the river, swept one down the lake and swimming back against this current, caused a little anxiety as we breaststroked harder and faster. Finally we got back to the shore and after climbing back along the dried up river bed, we set off round the head of the lake to the tiny village of Sankt Martin; 7 houses, a restaurant and a chapel. Beer was ordered as we took a table. Food was good, as was the banter from the restaurant owner, who, recognizing the fluent German speakers on our table, mixed up English and German.. funny guy!! Definitely worth yet another visit to this charming setting. Back on the bikes and the fast descent back to our starting point in Bad Ragaz and then home.
Lessons learned... worth persevering to get to the most remote places.
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Andy's Blog: Day 66/100 - Trip 31
28 June 2021 - Melchsee + Engstlensee
Melchsee + Engstlensee
Up, straight across and then back down. That was the planned route. However, it didn't work out quite like that. When planning on the Garmin, I assumed that the lake lying next to Melchsee was the Engstlensee and that after the climb, we would be able to do the two swims within half an hour, into a restaurant for lunch and be back at our starting point and home by mid afternoon. Engstlensee is a natural lake used as a reservoir in the municipality of Innertkirchen, Bernese Oberland. It is located near Joch Pass at an elevation of 1850 m and is ranked number 68th largest. Melchsee is a lake in the canton of Obwalden, Switzerland. It lends its name to the resort Melchsee-Frutt, predominantly known for its skiing activities. It lies at an elevation of 1891m and is the 88th largest lake in Switzerland. Mark was once again joining me, this time however, on mountain bikes. The very narrow mountain road up to Melchsee - Frutt starts from the village of Stockalp and is only opened in summer, during which period, one can only travel up by car during even hours and down during odd hours. Ticket barriers and traffic lights control the flow of traffic. The majority of people take the cable car, the station for which, is alongside the barriers. Our starting point was the village of Melchtal, which lies at 890m about three kilometres further down the valley and we set off at about 9.20am. We biked up to the picturesque café at the side of the barriers and had a coffee and croissant whilst waiting until 10 o'clock. Precisely at10, the lights changed to green and the paid barriers (for cars) opened and a small queue of cars set off up the road. We followed, going round the barrier and started the 10km, 1000m climb ahead of us. The day was warm and sunny and soon we were sweating as we followed the winding road at a constant gradient of about 10%. Above us, the cable godolas passed silently overhead carrying hikers to the top. It is a beautiful ride through the ever steepening gorge with sheer rock falls, a river and waterfalls on ones right hand side with more open mountain views to ones left.. Our plan was to go up by road and descend via the steep mountain bike route that crisscross the river. After about an hour and half we hit the summit and riding through the small ski town at the top rode round the gravel path that skirts the Melchsee lake before going over a crest where the second lake started. Looking at the size of the lake, we wondered whether this was actually large enough to register in the top 100. Checking Google Maps we found that this was not Engstensee, but Tannalpsee. Riding up to the head of the lake, we spotted, in the distance and down in the next valley, a much larger lake nestled amongst pine trees and surrounded on three sides by mountains. Google confirmed that this was Engstlensee. The only way to reach the lake was via a footpath approximately 1 metre wide that descended steeply alongside a cliff with rope handle on one side and a sheer drop on the other. We had managed to bike down the gravelly path to this point, but the sign indicating cyclists tumbling down the cliff, persuaded us to dismount and walk down pushing the bikes for about three hundred metres until we deemed it safe to remount and cycle down the tricky technical rock path until we reached the road which come up from Hasliberg in the next valley. Cycling across a grassy area that led down to the lakeside. Picnic tables were occupied by hikers who enjoyed the spectacle of two foreigners jumping into very cold water. A quick swim and change and we were back on the bikes with the prospect of climbing back up the path back over to Melchsee. This excursion had taken 90 mins and our promise to be back by mid afternoon was clearly going to be broken. In addition, the weather had changed. The wind had picked up significantly, clouds had rolled in an the temperature had dropped to about 12 degrees... chilly. We cycled around the Tannalpsee, slowing often to push the bikes through the snow drifts that still lined the lakeside, finally reaching the old Chapel that sits on the easterly side of Melchsee. Mark decline the offer of another swim, so I changed and waded into the very choppy waters of the Melchsee alongside the church. Because it is a relatively shallow lake, it was actually warmer than the previous swim, but the wind whipping up waves on the surface did not enhance the experience. The porch of Gods house provided an excellent changing room after the swim. Back round the lake we found an Italian Hotel and Restaurant that was still serving lunch. It was a good daily menu of salad, chicken and chips and of course, beer. Leaving the restaurant at about 2.30pm we rode down the road for about 500 metres until we found the mountain bike track. Mark was in his element.. he is a better technical MTB downhiller than me and set off at speed over large rocks, gravel and wooden logs. Tight turns sent the back wheel spinning and I was only able to catch up when he stopped to ford the river or cross by a waterfall. The terrain lower down turned to more forestry paths lined with roots and mud. It was great fun despite my tortoise like progress. Back on the road 10km later we sped back to the car and home.
Lessons Learned... Mark is better on a mountain bike than he is on a road bike. Hopefully there are not too many more MTB routes to go!!
Andy's Blog: Day 68/100 - Trip 32
30 June 2021 - Lago di Luzzone
Lago di Luzzone
It is that time during the challenge when the lakes become more remote and therefore it takes a full day to bike to, and swim in, only one at a time. Lago di Luzzone is such an example. Lago di Luzzone is a reservoir in Ticino located at an altitude of 1606m in the upper Blenio valley, in the municipalities of Ghirone and Aquila. My domestique today was Paul, who, having recently moved to Ticino, was almost in the neighbourhood for such a ride. (Well just over an hour away). Our starting point was the remote, pretty but very well equipped town of Olivone. When I say equipped, I mean shops, cafes, hotels, banks, school and sports facilities. The weather was perfect when we met in the town centre; sunny, warm but not too hot with a gentle breeze. The ride up to the lake was relatively straight forward. A climb over just over 11km ascending just over 700m would take us to the top of the dam, explore, swim and then return via the same route. Having pumped Paul's tyres to an acceptable pressure, we set off along the main road for about 1.5km before turning right at the signpost indicating the Lake. The gradient varied but generally was around 8-10% and whilst we did not break any records, it gave us the chance to catch up. I had not seen Paul since his move a few weeks previously. The road meandered up through beautiful countryside, before entering woodland providing welcome shade. The road however, steepened slightly and was punctuated by hairpin turns. After about an hour and twenty minutes the very impressive white edifice of the dam came into view. at the top of the road, there were three tunnels, none signposted. Taking the first one, it took us well above the dam and continued to climb into woods but in the wrong direction. Back through the tunnel and into the second which also took us above the dam but to the carpark of an Italian restaurant that sat overlooking the lake. Back again and through the third, which finally took us onto the top of the dam. After the normal photo shots, we continued to ride across the dam and entered yet another tunnel which delivered us to of all things, a bus stop. We met a lone motorcyclist who told us that there were actually 6 tunnels that provided routes from and into the area of the dam. Considering the location isolation, this seemed a little overkill. However, he also warned us about our swim, pointing to a sign that showed a person spiraling out of control through the dam turbines. We assured him that we would be careful, and finding a very convenient service gravel and mud route down to the waters edge that was protected from the main wall of the dam, we descended to our very own beach area. Changing, we waded into the blue but cold water and after a few minutes clambered out, shivering slightly. The elderly motorcyclist had stayed to watch and when he saw that we had survived, waved to us and departed. We then cycled back across the dam, and stopped in amazement at the sight of a number of climbers scaling the 170 metre, sheer side of the dam. The top of the dam actually curved beyond the vertical. One climber had already reached the top and indicated the route up. The dam had been studded with bouldering type hand and footholds - not for me.. I will stick with my lakes. Bidding good luck to the climber, we rode back through the third tunnel, back through the second tunnel and found a table in the nearly deserted restaurant. Very kindly, the restaurant had provided small bowls, one of yellow olive oil and the second, pepper. Having ordered salad, pasta and a couple of beers, the complimentary bread arrived and dipping it first into the oil and then the pepper bit into the crusty piece. Yuk.... it was fly poison. I am sure that Paul would have done the same, but as I had been first to the bread bowl, he thought this hilarious and chatted about it in his fluent Italian to the waitress... mad Englishmen do not only swim in lakes but also eat soapy fly deterrents. The lunch however, was excellent and after finishing with a quick espresso, we set off back down the mountain at great speed to our starting point and the prospect of the long homeward journey.
Lessons Learned... Don't think about taking up climbing when you are getting older and avoid complimentary treats that are already next to the table when you are seated in restaurants.
Andy's Blog: Day 70/100 - Trip 33
2 July 2021 - Lago di Lei + Sufnersee
Lago di Lei + Sufnersee
Dam Busters Weekend. Thanks to Carlo for setting a very tight schedule and the use of his place in Prosto on the Italian side of the border and to Alistair for driving with the bike rack. The plan was to base ourselves in Italy, crossing back into Switzerland to reach the more isolated lakes close to the border. First day's goal was to bike to and then swim in Lago di Lei and Sufnersee. Lago di Lei is a reservoir in the Valle di Lei, powering the Hinterrhein storage power stations. The reservoir is almost entirely in Italy, but the barrage was built on territory ceded by Italy to Switzerland in 1955 after diplomatic talks, while an equivalent sized territory further north of the lake was ceded to Italy in the exchange. The waters of the lake are the only waters in Italian territory that drain to the North Sea, being part of the Rhine's drainage basin. It lies 1931m above sea level and is classed the 27th largest lake. Sufnersee is ranked 61st on the largest 100 lakes list and lies 1401m high and is a reservoir situated between Splügen and Sufers on the Hinterrhein river in the Grisons region. Before setting out on the Friday morning we had to firstly complete the necessary Covid testing and form filling to ensure entry into Italy. Having all tested negative, we were set to go. Alistair arrived at my house at 7.30am and after loading the mountain bikes onto the trailer and the car with enough bike gear to last until Sunday we set off to Baar station where we met Carlo and repeated the exercise until we were fully loaded. After a long journey we arrived in the vicinity of the small town of Rofla and found a small car parking area. The weather was glorious as we set off and immediately hit the climb that would take us up the 15km long and 800m climb to the Lago di Lei dam. Beautiful countryside with the Averser Rhein river cascading down rock and waterfalls on our right and trees and meadows on our left. After about 5km we came upon a huge tunnel that marked the entrance to the one area of the power generation plant. Hi-vis coats and helmets were neatly hanging up just inside the well lit tunnel that led away into the distance. We were tempted to explore down the tunnel but decided against, although noting on the map on the wall, a mountain bike track leading from the lake at the top back to this point. The climb steepened toward the top until we came to a tunnel that signalled the entrance to the top of the dam. Traffic lights controlled the few cars that were passing through. After about 10 minute the lights changed to green and we sped through the darkened tunnel until emerging into bright sunshine at the top. My immediate reaction is to start scanning for a potential place to swim. The track on the opposite side of the lake seemed to provide the best opportunity, as the sides of the lake on the side we arrived, were almost sheer rock cliffs down to the water. Having taken the photos, we biked over the dam and then along the gravel path until we found a grassy area by a small shed at the top of a bank that looked less steep than anywhere else. We walked downwards through vegetation until we came to boulders and loose rocks that led down to the water's edge. Carlo had already indicated that he was not going to swim in any lake, but Alistair decided (after prompting) that we had come all this way, so it would be a shame to miss the opportunity. Over the course of the past two months, I had become acclimatized to the cold water.. Alistair had not, and was shocked by the temperature of the water, despite the beautiful sunshine weather. Back at the bikes, Carlo reminded us, not for the first time nor the last time, that although we were just about on schedule, we could not waste any more time. Therefore we returned back through the tunnel at speed and started down the hill, until Alistair, who was in front, screeched to a halt pointing at a very narrow track that he declared to be the bike route we had seen on the power generation map. Carlo, mindful of time and having the best mountain bike, did not wait for any discussion and plunged down the path followed by Alistair and then at a more cautious pace, me. This "main" mountain bike path became difficult to follow as the rocks and roots that lined the track were hidden by ferns and small shrubs overgrowing the way. Bumping blindly down until we hit the trees (almost literally) and with the terrain getting much worse, both Alistair and I decided that pushing the bikes was the better option, only riding when it was a clear section ahead. We had lost Carlo, until we heard crashing and cursing in the thicket of woods that led back down to the safety of the road. Carlo was carrying his bike downwards trying to avoid a steepish cliff that we could see, but he could not. We watched as finally he found a way round and descended to the roadside. Alistair and I continued along the original path until we found a more suitable and safer route to the tarmac. Carlo now reminded us that we were way behind schedule and that he would try not to listen to any more of Alistair's "good ideas" for the remainder of the tour. Back on tarmac we hurtled down and actually found a good path to the right of the road, more suited to flying mountain bikes. Exhilarated we got back to the area where the car was parked, but also that marked the start of the climb to the next lake. The road up was a hair pinned route and popular with fast cars and motorbikes. The scenery remained beautiful but the ride was less pleasant because of the traffic. Towards the top of the climb, roadworks blocked the route, but a bike path around gave relief to the traffic and very soon the lake came into view. For the first time in a long while, the lake was almost at road level and therefore would not require any death defying feats to get into for a swim. The bike route took us above the main road through the very attractive small farming town of Sufers before dropping down to the intersection of the main road where, by a bus stop, a path led us down to a grassy area by the lakeside. With Carlo stretched out relaxing and Alistair declining a second swim, I stripped off to the Speedos and swam in the slightly warmer water (about 11 degrees) before we all went back up the path, retrieved our bikes by the bus stop and headed back down the way we had come. Apart from one "heart in mouth" moment when my pedal hit the road going around one of the hairpins, which caused the bike to buck like a horse, we all arrived safely back at the car. Once the bikes were loaded, we set off to Carlos place which required us to go over the Splügen pass.. it is an amazing narrow road with so many twists and turns and dropping almost 1600 metres in height that is very popular with cyclists but also boy racers. Concentration is required all the way down, but I vowed to return at some point in the future to ride over on my road bike. We arrived at Carlo's place after stopping for a few groceries, (beer, wine, chips and some milk). He had told us that the apartment was very basic with no TV or Wi fi but it turned out to be very comfortable. After a quick aperitif whilst trying to watch the first half of the Euros football on a stuttering iphone picture, we headed out on bikes into the nearest town of Chievenna where the streets were full of enthusiastic Italian fans crowded around TV's that were outside almost every bar and cafe in anticipation of an Italian victory in the game against Czech that was soon to start. We had a lovely meal in the local restaurant watching the game with the waiters and restaurant owner on the iphone propped against my glasses case, before joining the jubilant crowds outside for the dying few minutes of the game before returning home .. great day
Lessons Learned.. The Swiss know how to set a schedule.... and you should not question it!!
Andy's Blog: Day 71/100 - Trip 34
3 July 2021 - Albigna Lake (Lago da l'Albigna) + Lej da Vadret
Lago da l'Albigna + Lej da Vadret
Early start for what was to prove one of the most challenging days of the challenge so far. Plan was to take the gondola from Pranzaira up to Lago da l'Albigna down and travel to Pontresina before cycling as far as possible up the valley and then hiking/trail running to the Lej da Vadret. Albigna Lake is a reservoir in the canton of Graubünden, Switzerland. It is located in the municipality of Vicosoprano at an elevation of 2163 m on the southwest side of the Bregaglia valley, northeast of Pizzo Cacciabella and is rated 54th largest in Switzerland. Lej da Vadret is a lake below Roseg Glacier in the Grisons Canton Graubunden and lies 2160m above sea level and is the 93rd largest lake in Switzerland. Hiking, biking, maybe trail running and swimming were on the agenda for today's adventure. Loaded up with bikes and suitable equipment, we left the house at 7.35am, 5 minutes behind schedule and drove the 30 minutes from Carlo's apartment to the cable car station at Pranzaira crossing the border again back into Switzerland. Once again we were not stopped. Buying tickets, one has to then wait .. the gondola holds only six people. Despite our early arrival at the station, there were several groups of climbers waiting to be whisked up the valley to prime climbing territory. After about a 15minute wait, we boarded the gondola and started our upward journey. The views are staggering with huge rock edifices towering above the dam and lake ahead of us and a concave mountain vista rising up from the valley behind us. The weather was again good with sunshine although still chilly, it being still relatively early in the morning. The ride took about 12 minutes and soon we were stepping out of the gondola station underneath the dam and joining a few groups of climbers who were hiking up to their climbing routes. We deviated from their path to take the gravel route to the top of the dam. When we stepped onto the top of the dam, the view was staggering because of the sheer sides of rock that surrounded the entire lake. The only area that seemed less steep appeared to be at the far end of the lake, but with no apparent route to get round the lake, this was ruled out. We looked at each other and comments such as "this is too dangerous to even contemplate getting to the water'' and "what is lake number 101" came out in discussion as we looked to find a solution. Still, this is not classed as a challenge without at least trying. The only way that we could think of climbing down was alongside the dam wall, finding hand and footholds on the dam wall on one side and the large boulder field on the other. I changed into my hiking boots and with Carlo we started to edge our way slowly down. One slip and there was not a lot to stop one from falling 100 metres. About half way down, Carlo commented not once but three times; "I wouldn't do this Andy". Alistair decided to stay at the top, videoing progress and prepared to call for rescue if there was an accident. The other dangerous part of swimming in dammed lakes is that if one swims close to the dam and the turbines start up, one would have little chance of escaping. To date, I had been finding areas to swim well away from the dam wall, but in this case, there was no choice. Finally scrambling backwards down to the water and changing, I took a few deep breaths before sliding into the very cold, slightly murky water. Enough time and distance to count as a proper swim, I climbed out with more than a little relief. Drying off and then starting the long climb back to the top, we reached the top of the dam, almost an hour after starting the climb down. (which of course put us behind schedule!). The adrenalin was still pumping as we retraced steps back to the gondola and back down into the valley. After an hour's journey to the next starting point of Pontresina, stopping only briefly for a quick coffee and cake from a mobile cafeteria on the banks of Lake SilvaPlana. We parked at the station in Pontresina and having got the bikes unloaded again, we crossed the railway line and then took the clearly signposted bike and walking path that would lead us for about 12km up to the lake. I was surprised as to how gentle the gradient was. So slight was the climb that there were many families walking and riding. The wide path runs alongside the river pouring down from the lake, occasionally crossing the raging torrent and providing excellent views of the glacier up ahead. However, this gentle start was to prove very deceptive. After about five kilometres at a restaurant, the path narrowed to a walking trail which became more and more rocky and treacherous to bike on. We noticed that bikes were strewn along the next two kilometres as people left them to continue on foot. At one of the last wooden planked bridges across the river, Carlo and I decided to abandon our vehicles and to try a spot of trail running. Alistair carried on but mainly ended up carrying his bike, before he too, decided to continue on foot. Carlo was sprinting ahead of me and I waited for Alistair to catch up. We then walked up and broke into a run for the last few hundred metres as the trail flattened out to the lake. Persuading Alistair once more to attempt a swim, we waded into the cold water for a beautiful swim with the view of the glacier up above us. (A local person advised that it was only twenty years ago, reached right down to the lakeshore, but now it is several hundred metres away.... a sobering thought). Clambering back down the boulder strewn route to find our bikes we biked down to the restaurant where we enjoyed an excellent late lunch and a couple of beers. Back to the car and having loaded up yet again, we drove the 75 minute journey back to Prosto and another beer sitting on the balcony. Unfortunately the rain had now started and was becoming heavier. We had planned to go back into town to find one of the many TV viewing areas to watch the England v Uruguay game. As an intermediate point, we scurried through the rain to a local restaurant which had a terrace under a large awning which we knew from the previous night had a TV where we could watch the game. Having arrived at the restaurant we were struck by the lack of any TV. What game? was the response from the restaurant owner. It turned out that all of the bars the previous night had decided not to show the England game. After a quick dinner we therefore returned to Carlo's to watch the game on the stuttering iphone. A good result in the football however and a relatively early night in preparation for more challenges tomorrow.
Lessons Learned.. Risk assessment is everything..but when you feel you have no choice, one can push away all the doubts nagging away inside one and just go for it.. probably not very sensible but what is the point of getting older without taking some risk
Andy's Blog: Day 72/100 - Trip 35
4 July 2021 - Zervreilasee
Zervreilasee
Last day of our dam busting weekend based in Italy. Another early start with a long journey ahead of us and to beat the traffic over the Splügen pass. Only one dammed lake planned for today. Zervreilasee is a reservoir located south-west of Vals in the canton of Graubünden and is numbered 44th in the list of largest lakes. The lake has an elevation of 1,862 m and the dam is 151 m high and was completed in 1957. The village of Zervreila was flooded after the construction of the dam. Our starting point was from the gondola station, just outside the town of Vals, which takes hikers up to Gadastatt from which you can get a postbus to the dam. However our route was via mountain bikes. The town of Vals is very isolated at the end of a long gorged valley, but famous for its bottled water, Valser. Set at one end of a typical one street mountain town there is a huge modern bottling plant. Very incongruous! The route up from the gondola station is via a single tracked road that winds upwards for about 10km at a constant gradient of about 10% climbing about 600m. It is a beautiful ride through a very steep gorge with occasional glimpses of the Zerfreilahorn mountain which is known locally as the Matterhorn of Graubunden because of its shape. The ride is punctuated by a long rough hewn tunnel that one has to go through followed by another that you bypass on a bike along a rough steep mountain path that has breathtaking views looking down into the gorge. Just below the summit there is a very charming restaurant where we stopped for a coffee and because we had had no breakfast, ordered a blueberry cake. Excellent cake and coffee but the most expensive on the tour so far. Three coffees and three cakes, 42CHF.. wow. Fortified but lighter in the bank balance, we struck out for the top of the dam. The weather so far had been dry but cloudy and with a promise of heavy rain coming in, we were keen to get the swim done and back to the car. However, another damned challenge of how to get into the lake. The solution was provided by the sight of a couple of fishermen scrambling down close to the dam to find a rocky beach area about a hundred metres from the dam wall. Alistair decided again to stay on the top of the dam, so Carlo in his bike shoes and me in a light but old pair of trainers with zero grip, climbed over the barrier at the end of the dam and started the downward journey. It started relatively easily through vegetation but then reached a large flat boulder where we had to traverse and then cross a fast flowing waterfall. From the top, it looked very shallow but on arrival was, at times, ankle deep. With waterlogged shoes, we slopped down the remaining scree sided slope until we reached the same beach as the fisherman. Moving slightly away from their lines, I changed and started to slide across a flat rock into the customary freezing water. Normally, Carlo is the camera man to capture the historic moment, but just as I was sitting on the rock already getting cold, his phone rang. I gestured to him to call the person back, but he seemed to be enjoying the call and looking upwards. Finally, with my feet like ice blocks, he finished his call and I gratefully started the short circular swim. As I emerged, I could hear cheering from above. Alistair had made friends with a group of student hikers who were clapping and shouting encouragement over the parapet. Carlo was anxious to get back to the top of the dam so I changed as quickly as possible and returned the same way, getting feet soaked once more. He told me that the call was from a friend who was calling randomly to find out how Carlo was doing. It turned out that this friend was hiking across the same dam as we were swimming in!! What a coincidence. We met Carlos' friend and her hiking companions who after chatting for a few minutes, advised the best restaurant in Vals to visit for lunch. Bidding farewell, we launched ourselves back down the hill, this time taking another bike pass that circumnavigated the tunnel we had cycled through. It was an exhilarating detour with rough terrain under the tyres and more great views over the edge of the gorge. Back at the car, we changed and headed into the town, found the restaurant and sat inside enjoying an excellent lunch of beetroot soup and locally made burgers, with a weissbier of course. Our hiker friends turned up just as we were finishing, so bidding them farewell once more we set off. I managed to persuade Alistair to drive an hour out of his way (very appreciated) to drop me in the town of Meiringen where I was due to catch a train to Grindelwald via Interlaken to meet my wife Cyn for a few days of finding more dammed lakes. One thing I haven't mentioned in the blogs for the weekend but will now. It had been a musical bike tour. As we were cycling, we chose appropriate songs to sing related to the situation or place we were in. One recurrent tune was the Dambusters theme... perfect.
Lessons Learned... Italy, on the border of Switzerland, is perfect for bike riding, scenery and lakes.... but if you want to watch non Italian sport especially football, one better stay on the Swiss side..football is coming home and so were we.
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Andy's Blog: Day 74/100 - Trip 36
6 July 2021 - Gelmersee + Oberaarsee (Attempt 2)
Gelmersee + Oberaarsee 2
Hiking day today. Staying in Grindelwald with my wife Cyn who agreed to join me for the first time on this challenge. The plan is to hike to and swim in the Gelmersee and to revisit on foot, the Oberaarsee which I biked to before (see previous blog) but the road from the Grimselpass to the lake had been closed due to mudslides preventing me from reaching the lake. Therefore we would need to reach the Gelmersee by travelling up on the steepest open sided funicular railway in Europe and then a hike around the lake to a suitable swim area. The return to the Oberaarsee was to be achieved by hiking from the top of the Grimselpass. Gelmersee is a dammed reservoir in Bernese Oberland above the Grimselpass. It lies at an altitude of 1850m and is rated 75th largest lake in Switzerland. Oberaarsee is one of the highest lakes in Switzerland at an altitude of 2303m and is a hydroelectric reservoir in the Grimsel area.Cyn does not have a great head for heights, so today's adventure was going to be challenging. The weather forecast was for sunshine but windy in the morning with the threat of heavy clouds and rain coming into the area in the mid afternoon. Our starting point was the funicular station in Handegg which you reach from Grindelwald by travelling to Meiringen and then taking the sign to Grimselpass. We arrived at the carpark and walked up the hill to the station. I was surprised, being midweek, how many people were queuing to catch the train. We had to book our tickets in advance for a specific time but never realised how popular this ride was. Taking our place in one of the 24 available spaces, a bar is lowered to keep you from falling out. Very similar to a fairground ride. The train then takes you backwards up the steepening slope to a maximum of 106 degrees. It is a strange sensation. Arriving safely at the top, we disembarked and walked the two hundred metres to the top of the dam. The weather was still sunny but very blustery, causing white topped waves on top of the brilliant blue water of the lake. The path around half of the lake was inaccessible due to rock fall so we took the path upwards on the left hand side of the lake. The route is narrow and rocky, with sheer cliffs running along one's left hand side and steep drops on ones right down to the water. After about 1.5km the path leads to a more open area but less steep sides down to the lake. Snow still lay across parts of the path and due to that, a bridge that connected one side of a wide waterfall and river to the path that continued around the head of the lake was very difficult to reach. We decided that we could scramble down the boulders to a sandy, rocky beach area. If there had not been snow and at an altitude of over 1800m the scenery by the water reminded me of the rocky/sandy beaches in the Algarve. The swim was beautiful in very clear water and having changed we headed back to catch the funicular railway. The experience going down was more pleasant than the ride up due to the fact that you were able to see where you were going, despite it being so steep. At the bottom, there was a 300 metre swing bridge that traversed the valley. WObbling to the centre, Cyn captured the moment on a photo from a safe distance. We were now heading for the top of the Grimselpass to hike over to Oberaarsee. Parking by the restaurant, we stepped out into quickly changing weather. Rain threatening clouds swept in across the horizon by increasing wind strength. Wrapped up, we set off on the 6km walk along the road that climbs steadily for the first five kilometres providing great views of the Grimselsee beneath. The grey weather gave the whole landscape a grim foreboding view as we route-marched across until the road started to descend toward the dam wall of the lake. There is a gondola that runs from the Grimsel Hospitz to the dam of Oberaarsee and as we approached, we noticed workmen working on the cable car station. This overlooked the area around the dam and being unsure about whether I was allowed to swim, I walked around until we were out of sight of the workmen and scrambled down to the edge of a very silty, grey coloured water lake. With rain in the air and a strong wind, the lake was not very inviting. However, I had come here twice and was not going to miss this opportunity. The swim was as expected, cold with waves splashing into one's face containing silt churned up by the inclement weather. Cyn had been keeping watch from the top of the scree sided bank and having rejoined her, we set off at another brisk pace covering the 6km in under an hour. Coffee and cake at the restaurant restored us and then we started on the journey back to Grindelwald.
Lessons learned.. My head for heights is not as good as it was when I was younger.
Andy's Blog: Day 77/100 - Trip 37
9 July 2021 - Lai da Nalps + Lai da Curnera
We were late.. a rockfall en route had caused a two hour diversion to our bike area selected for today. However the weather forecast was good and Mark, having had a weeks rest on holiday in Italy, joined me fresh as my domestique for today's ride and swim which, from a starting point in Sedrun, was to Lai da Nalps then back down across the valley to the start of the Oberalp Pass and then up to Lai da Curnera. Lai da Nalps is a reservoir in the municipality of Tujetsch, Grisons. It lies at an elevation of 1908m. The reservoir is connected to Lai da Sontga Maria and Lai da Curnera in neighboring valleys. Lai da Curnera is a reservoir on the river Rein da Curnera and is situated due west from its connected Lai Nalps at a height of 1956m above sea level. Sedrun is a typical holiday town running length-ways along a main road with shops offering sports experiences, restaurants, cafes, hotels and even a golf course lying down in the valley below. The station is situated above the main town centre and it was from there that we prepared and set off. It was a relatively straightforward ride planned. Mountain bikes would take us up the one road up to the Lai da Nalps, back down cutting through the golf course before climbing up to Lai da Curnera. The only major challenge was whether, and from where, we could swim as pictures indicated that both lakes were very isolated. With warm sun on our backs, we were soon discarding jackets as we left the town of Sedrun and following the signs took the steepening gradient on the road towards our first goal. It was like many other rides that we have experienced, especially those at higher altitude. Sedrun lies at an altitude of about 1350m. Therefore we had a 10km climb of about 600m at a steady gradient of between 8 and 11% through tree lined gorges, down which waterfalls cascaded. The occasional tunnel provided some cool relief for a couple of minutes from the warm sunshine. A bridge spanning the gorge took us from one side to the side where the dam could be reached. After about an hour and twenty minutes we reached the dam wall and moving to the middle surveyed any possibilities as to where to get in. The water levels were again relatively low. The most shallow slopes down to the lake appeared to be towards the far end of the lake. Again this was typical. We therefore had to climb a further 70 metres to above the dam where we picked up the gravel trail that went around the side of the lake we were on. The gravel path descended and became increasingly covered in water caused by waterfalls cascading across the road/path. Finally towards the end of the lake we found a suitable spot and started to bike down through a very boggy and stony path until it levelled out. We left the bikes and scrambled down the remaining few metres until we came to the water's edge. Normal routine; Mark deciding whether to swim, and then saying he would skip this one. I realised that I had left my rucksack which contained speedos and a towel by the bike. Like all good domestiques, Mark said he would go and fetch it for me. For the sake of saving time, I decided not to wait for him, and for the first and only time during this challenge, I went skinny dipping. I never realised how much warmth the speedo's gave one to protect the nether regions from the cold. It was freezing and whilst my hands and feet started to cramp up almost immediately, they were not the main thing on my mind. Clutching my privates in freezing hands, I clambered out. Fortunately Mark had just returned with the towel and after a few minutes, blood started to recirculate. We had to push the bikes back up the boggy path so by the time we got back to the rocky road, my feet were soaking again. Climbing back up the rocky road, we were struck by two things, herds of cows on the opposite steep hillside and the number of people walking their dogs around the lake. The lake was in the middle of nowhere and surrounded by towering peaks and cliffs. Where did the cows come from? and why did people drive so far to the middle of nowhere just to walk their dogs? Both questions remained unanswered as we hammered back down the hill. We were looking out for the MTB route to take us through the golf course but it was cleverly hidden amongst other paths. We decided to go up a very steep gravel path to get a better view, but by the time we had reached the top, we had to descend a very narrow grass path alongside electrified fencing holding sheep. One wobble and one would have been zapped. Finally we came down and found the correct path. Organizers were laying a trail of flags for a running race that was to take place the following day. It appeared to be along the mountain bike trail so we followed that. It was so wet, that I am sure runners would be better to wear waders. Up and down steep footpaths and gravel tracks we finally came to the golf club. By now the time was nearly 2.45pm and we were only half way round. We decided to grab a snack from the golf bar and shop before heading back onto the main road and starting the ascent of the Oberalppass. The road twists up hairpins for about five kilometres before a sign half way up the pass indicated the route to Lai da Curnera. From the road it is an impressive but steep climb that traversed a high peak, where looking back down, one had a great view of the road snaking up over the pass. We turned the corner at just over 2100 metres after about 800 metres of climbing from the golf club, and got our first view of the very impressive dam between two cavernous cliffs leading down to bright blue water. From where we stood, there was zero chance of getting into this lake. We pedalled down to just above the dam where, beside a workmans storage container, a tiny path disappeared over the cliff. To access the path, one had to climb over a sturdy thick wired fence. We decided to explore. I changed my shoes to my walking boots and climbed over the fence. There was a thick wire attached to the rock which provided a sort of hand rail to stop one toppling over the sheer sided cliff. The path continued round a turn and we were confronted by a series of caged ladders going down to what appeared to be a flat concreted area below. With a rucksack on my back, it was a tight squeeze into the cage around the ladder. Gingerly, and at one step at a time, I edged to the end of the first ladder to find and second and then a third set of ladders. Having reached the flat area, there was an open sided set of rungs drilled into the rock that took us down to a rocky ledge where we were able to scramble down a scree lined path to the water. It certainly got the adrenaline flowing. A quick swim in beautiful clear water was the reward to such a climb down. It was easier going back although the rucksack continued to snag on the cage. Finally and quite exhausted we got back to the top of the cliff and climbing back onto the bike, relieved that we were still alive, headed all the way back in about 30 minutes to Sedrun. Combined with Lake Albigna, this was certainly the most challenging but also cool way to get to have a swim. It was now past 6pm, and whilst I changed into jeans and T shirt, Mark found a recommended restaurant in a local hotel. The decor was very alpine but up market with white linen cloths and silver cutlery. Sweaty and in my old jeans, I felt a little out of place as the rest of the restaurant was full of well dressed couples and parties enjoying fine wine dining. However, we ordered the recommended menu of the day which was slightly expensive but exquisitely cooked and the service was excellent. We replaced wine with a couple of Weissbiers and then set off for the journey home.
Andy's Blog: Day 80/100 - Trip 38
12 July 2021 - Muttsee + Limmernsee
Muttsee + Limmernsee
My sherpa today was Mark and the plan was to take the gondola which whisks you up 1000m to a height of 1800m and then hiking in a circular route firstly up to our swim in the Muttsee before descending to the Limmernsee and then returning to the gondola station. Muttsee is a reservoir in the Canton of Glarus and is the highest lake of the challenge lying at an altitude of 2446m above sea level. It has become famous for its experimental engineering work to cover the wall of the dam in solar panels during this summer period. The Limmernsee is situated between the towering peaks of between the peaks of Muttenchopf, Selbsanft and Kistenstöckli at a height of 1857m. It is a reservoir that is connected to the Muttsee for the purpose of hydro-power generation situated approximately 3km from the Muttsee. The lakes are ranked 94th and 51st largest respectively. Our starting point was the gondola station in the small village of Tierfehd which is next to the Hotel Tödi where we enjoyed a morning coffee and croissant before setting off. It was an easy procedure to board the unmanned gondola car. One buys a ticket at the machine, presents the ticket to the automatic reader by the barrier which opens to allow one to board the cabin, which then speeds one up above fantastic scenery in about 12 minutes to the station at the top. The infrastructure of the top station is intriguing. Signs indicate the hiking route possibilities but doors open to reveal tunnels (more of that later). The climb is not for the faint hearted as the narrow path twists steeply uphill with some scrambling required alongside steep drops. However, after a relatively short time, one goes round a promontory and the path descends slightly before it gradually climbs across a boulder and scree face which is relatively gentle compared with the beginning of the climb. It is not always easy to see where the path goes, but the occasional red and white swiss path markers indicate that you are still on track. During our traverse, we passed a group of dutch people (made Mark feel at home) comprising mother and baby, niece and nephew and her mother. The mother, who lived in Switzerland and clearly the guide, was carrying a child in a specially designed rucksack and her mother, who was visiting her daughter, explained that this was her first time hiking in the mountains. What a route to pick!! Across the scree and snow the path rises again before coming out at the summit where one gets the first view of the brilliant blue of the lake, the colour enhanced by the snow that still lies around much of the perimeter. Across the plateau at the top, there stands a mountain hut which offers food, drinks and accomodation (you need to book in advance). A small distance from the main building stands a shed that has windows with curtains. Apparently this is for groups of four who wish to have more privacy than the dormitory style accommodation of the main house. We decided to swim first with the plan to return to the hostel for lunch. Crossing over rapidly melting snow areas, we made our way to the dam where workers on the solar panel installation were at lunch, sitting inside metal huts along the top of the dam wall. This was fortunate, because as we made our way to the lakeshore, trying to find a cove that was hidden from view, we noticed a sign about 50 metres to our left which we decided to read on our way back. The water was crystal clear but the swim was surprisingly refreshing rather than painfully cold. It was still only 4 degrees. Mark plunged as opposed to swimming but we both ticked off the lake as both successful and beautiful and well worth the hike up. As suspected the sign indicating that swimming was strictly forbidden, so pretending to the workers, now emerging after their lunch, that we had just strolled down for a closer look at the lake, we detoured around back to the mountain hut. Despite the sunshine, after our swim, the wind suddenly picked up. We sat outside for lunch enjoying a cold meat and cheese platter washed down with a beer, but gradually adding layers as the wind cut through us. Finishing quicker than expected, we set off towards a large cross that indicated the start of the path down to the Limmernsee. What a view - lake in the distance, towering peaks surrounding it, waterfalls cascading all around, cutting swathes through grass and rock lined hills. The climb down is once again steep, with chains attached to rock faces where the path becomes tricky. Gradually as one gets closer to the lake the terrain flattens out and the path zig zags down to a wide flat area above the water. This links the path to the top of the dam and a large tunnel opening just before the dam wall starts. We however, spotted an area that we could get to without too much scrambling. The water for the swim was slightly warmer than the first lake but the views once one was in the water were spectacular. Climbing back up, we entered the tunnel entrance which was a straight 3km tunnel that would take us back to the gondola station on the other side of the mountain. One had to take a high vis jacket from a container at the entrance, returning it to a similar box before entering the gondola down. The tunnel is well lit, constantly maintained to prevent flooding but despite that, it was quite wet underfoot. There are even public toilets which on visiting, turned out to be cleaner than my bathroom at home.. spotless... only in Switzerland!! We route marched back through the tunnel and went through the door we had spotted on our arrival. Leaving our jackets we were joined on our descent by one of the electrical engineers working for the power company. He had parked his car in the car park inside the tunnel and now was informing us about how the power was generated. It is amazing that gravity and the volume of water falling from the first to the second lake generates significant excess power, despite it having to be pumped back up to the top lake again. Back at the bottom, we enjoyed a celebratory beer for what had been a wonderful day out.. highly recommended.
Lessons learned.... if a whole inexperienced family can undertake such a hike, anyone can.... just don't look down
Andy's Blog: Day 81/100 - Trip 39
13 July 2021 - Lago d'Isola
Lago d'Isola
Storms raging across Switzerland over the past few days and forecasted for the next few. No one to support me today which makes it harder to get motivated. However, I had to get out and get at least one lake done. The plan was to start at the town of Splügen and cycle over the San Bernardino pass to the Lago d'Isola and then back again. The weather appeared to be less inclement in that part of the world (south east) as opposed to the Northern and central areas of Switzerland which were facing potential flooding. Lago d'Isola is a reservoir in the town of San Bernardino, Grisons, at the southern end of the San Bernardino Pass. It is situated at a height of 1604m above sea level and ranked number 99th in the top 100 list. Despite a journey through cloudy but dry conditions, I arrived mid morning in driving rain in Splügen at a cafe which had several other bikes parked under an awning. Everyone inside had that resigned look that this was not going to be a good biking day. Over a coffee and cake, I looked at the weather radar, which indicated that there could be a two hour window between the rain, starting at 12.30pm. The original plan would have taken at least five hours, so the decision was taken to halve the route by going to the top of the pass and then cycling down, swimming and cycling back up. There is a hospitz/cafe at the top of the pass, but it was shut, so sat in the car park waiting for the rain to ease. The weather app was correct. Almost exactly at 12.30pm the rain stopped, so I set off immediately along the top of the pass, around a small lake before starting the descent down the 8km hair pinned road. Something, however, was not right. About half way down, I was struggling to turn the bike into the sharp bends. The reason became apparant.. I had a soft front tyre which was slowly deflating. Pulling to the side of the road on one of the hairpin corners, I unzipped the small tool bag that is attached to the back of the bike and two tyre levers tumbled out, straight down a drain that I had parked next to. I was now 4km down the road, 300m lower than when I started, not a soul around with a flat tyre and no tyre levers... brilliant. Checking the tyre valve, I found it was loose. Tightening the valve, I then reached for the CO2 cylinders before realizing that I had never used the inflating gadget before and the instructions in which it was wrapped had become soaked and therefore unreadable. Thank god for YouTube. On my phone, I watched the relevant video and then easily re-inflated the tyre. The video warns that the gas canisters get very cold during operation. They were not kidding.. I had wrapped the canister in my bike glove but the very tip of my small finger caught on the cold metal and stuck... very painful. However, relieved that the tyre appeared to remain inflated, I set off again and was soon entering the pretty mountain town of San Bernadino. Through the town, one could see the lake through the trees. I took a couple of turns which led nowhere before turning back and heading down towards a water sports centre. The lake is beautiful surrounded by pine forests which give the water a very intense green colour. No problems getting into this lake. A grassy area with seating led down to the water's edge. Perfect. The swim was glorious; refreshing without being cold, clean and despite it being quite close to the road, totally isolated. The sun even made a short appearance after the swim, helping to warm me up. Being conscious that I was behind schedule to beat the rain, I quickly headed back through the town and hit the climb going back up. It is a good climb on smooth roads and not too steep. An average gradient of about 7% meant that I was able to make good time. I was about 1km from the top when the clouds descended and light rain started to fall. The top of the pass is pretty bleak even when the sun shines. When it is in cloud and rain, it is pretty grim. Fortunately, I managed to get back to the car without getting too wet and having changed into dry clothes, set off for home.
Lessons learned... don't park your bike over a drain cover and ensure you understand how to use all the tools you carry before you have to use them.
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Andy's Blog: Day 82/100 - Trip 40
14 July 2021- Lag da Pigniu + Göscheneralpsee
Lag da Pigniu + Göscheneralpsee
Once again on my own. Plotting a route away from the rain, I decided to tackle two lakes that lie above the valley between Chur and Andermatt. Lag da Pigniu is a reservoir above the small hamlet of Pigniu in the Grisons and lies at a height of 1490m above sea level. Göscheneralpsee is a reservoir in the municipality of Göschenen, Canton of Uri, and at an elevation of 1792m. Lag da Pigniu is one of the smallest lakes in the top 100, numbered 97th in size. Göscheneralpsee is larger, ranked 52nd. My starting place for the first lake was the very pretty small village of Rueun which is situated about 15km west of the ski resort of Flims. My legs felt tired today, but the sun was shining so in good spirits, I unloaded the bike and prepared to climb the 700m over 10km to the top of the dam. I had parked opposite the old church and headed up through the main street unaware of the brutal start to this bike ride. Following the sign to Pigniu, the road leaving the village immediately ramped up to 14% and then 16% over the first kilometre. The question going through my mind was how long will this gradient last? Sweating profusely and thinking that maybe I would just do one lake today, the gradient occasionally threw in a 17% and even 18% just so the front wheel would lift. I daren't stop... I would never get going again. After three kilometres to my relief the gradient started to ease to about 11%. It felt like it was on the flat after that initial 25 mins. Stopping to check that my heart rate was slowing and gulping most of the water left in my bottle, I set off again, now being able to enjoy some of the beautiful scenery that I was cycling through. The road completely flattened as I cycled into the very small farming community of Pigniu but hitting the middle of the town, the road to the lake became less well tarmaced and once again, very steep. They like their hills here. Huffing and puffing up the farm track I passed a deserted restaurant that had an "open sign" and thought that I would return here for a quick lunch after the swim. Fortunately the road once again reduced to a more acceptable gradient of less than 10% but the weather was changing. Dark clouds had rolled in and large spots of rain started to appear on the road surface. One has to traverse a small section of unmade gravel road before you turn into a tree lined area that would take one all the way up to the lake. Stopping beyond the gravel to put on rain gear, the heavens suddenly opened, turning the road into a water slide. Sheltering as best as possible under a tree, I waited for about ten minutes before the rain started to ease. Setting off again in light rain, the dam finally came into view and after another 10 minutes, I was at the summit on top of the dam. Relief always comes when immediately it becomes apparant that this lake should not present too many problems to get into and so it proved. Cycling along the gravelly walking path that ran alongside the lake, I came upon a wide path that led right down to the water's edge. Changing and slipping into water that was a bit silty by the edge but generally clean away from the shore, I enjoyed my swim in the rain that continued to fall albeit light. Then it was back down, only stopping to check out the restaurant that I had passed on the way up. A dog came to greet me and followed me down to where tables and umbrellas were set out. However, despite my calling which prompted the dog to start up a continual barking, no one appeared. Giving up with the dog now chasing me down the road, I sped up and arrived back in Rueun where the sun had come out again. Time was ticking and I still had a long way to go to my next starting point. Stopping en-route at a local supermarket to grab a sandwich, I finally arrived in Göschenen at about 3.30pm. Fortunately the weather had remained sunny and was now positively warm as I set off up the long stretch towards the lake. It is a deceptive ride that starts relatively gently meandering alongside a raging river that cuts through beautiful countryside that is dotted with small camping areas alongside the route, before gradually getting steeper and steeper. The steep part towards the top of the climb cuts through sheer sided rock faces, punctuated by the odd tunnel. Water, water everywhere was the standout element of this ride. The rocks were seeping water onto the road turning them into small streams that left one's backside and rucksack soaked as the spray from the back wheel reached headheight. There were a lot of workmen on the route repairing the water damage to the road but fortunately, I reached the hairpin section at the top of the climb which took me to the top of a natural dam. This is a dam that has been created by man but using rocks and boulders to build the water defences rather than concrete. It was very high above the water line but one could see plenty of fishermen at the base of the dam. If they could scramble down to the water's edge, then so could I. Changing shoes and carefully climbing down amongst the rocks I made sure I kept a good distance from where the bright orange fishing floats could be clearly seen against the blue of the water. The water was icy, and all the fishermen seemed to stop their activities to watch some crazy Englishman splashing around in water that would easily keep frozen fish in perfect condition. With a wave to my audience, I climbed back up the rock slope, retrieved my bike and headed down the water covered road ending up at the bottom of the hill as wet as if I had just climbed out of the lake. However, by now, the early evening temperature was almost hot which helped warm me as I changed, back at the car, into clothes for the journey home. The temperature was also rising around me, as after a huge bang, I turned to witness a road works truck that had just reversed slowly but surely into a small VW van. It had completely written off the front end of the van, much to the dismay of the lady who had jumped out to remonstrate with the driver and his work colleagues who had run from the roadworks that they had just been finishing at the end of their work day. However, it is not in the Swiss nature to lose one's cool for long, and soon they appeared to be on good terms, laughing and joking as they called their respective insurance companies. Asking whether they need me for any witness statement to the police, they replied in the negative, citing that there were enough people around. So jumping into my car and carefully moving around the scene of car debris littering the road, I set off back on the journey home.
Lessons Learned... despite what appears a massive mountain to climb, keep going and perseverance will see one through.. it is a lesson that can be applied to many situations in life.
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Andy's Blog: Day 84/100 - Trip 41
16 July 2021 - Lago Tremorgio + Lai da Sontga Maria + Lago Ritom
Lago Tremorgio + Lai da Sontga Maria + Lago Ritom
Today's trip reminded me of lead out riders positioning a rider for the final sprint before dropping out one by one. I was joined by 3 domestiques, Alistair, Mark and webmaster, Peter. The plan was that I would travel with Alistair and meet Mark and Peter just south of the Gotthard Tunnel at the cable car station at Rodi to take us up to Tremorgio lake which lies west of the valley through which the Tunnel cuts through. Then we would head back about five kilometres to the industrial area of Ritom SA before climbing up to Lago Ritom. The Mountain Bike route from Lago Ritom would then take us up over the mountain peaks before dropping down to Lai da Sontga Maria. The weather was fine, sunny albeit with a fresh breeze, but with the threat of rain later in the day, we know we would have to crack on.Tremorgio Lake is a mountain lake above the small villages of Rodi and Fiesso at an altitude of 1851m, in the municipality of Prato Leventina in the canton of Ticino. Lago Ritom is a lake in the Piora valley, Ticino, Switzerland. The natural lake lying at 1850m is used as a reservoir by the Swiss Federal Railways to generate hydro-electric power for the Gotthard line. Lai da Sontga Maria is a lake, located north of the Lukmanier Pass in Switzerland. It lies almost entirely in the municipality of Medel, a tiny fraction of the south-west part of the lake belonging to the municipalities of Quinto and Blenio. It lies at a height of 1,908 metres above sea level and is surrounded by mountains over 3,000 metres on both sides. The lakes rank in size, 96th, 47th and 40th respectively.
Alistair and I arrived early due to the fact that, surprisingly, there was no queue at the Gotthard Tunnel. Mark and Peter called us to advise that, due to rock falls caused by the ongoing stormy weather that had been affecting different parts of Switzerland for the past few days, they were going to be 30 minutes behind us. We said we would wait and spent the time exploring the quirky cable car station. Finally, Mark and Peter decided that they would prefer to get coffee and breakfast rather than travel up to the first lake and agreed to meet us at the start of the bike ride to the second lake so Alistair and I purchased our ticket and were quickly transported upwards to the station at the top. Compared with the other lakes, it has a curious feel and perspective. We seemed to be totally alone and followed the short path from the cable car through woodland on both sides to an almost perfectly circular lake surrounded by high grass covered peaks. It made me think that a round meteor had hit the spot to leave a bowl shape that had now been filled with blue clear water. We could also hear cow bells but were unsure where the cows wearing them had come from. However, first, the task of a swim. The water was clear and comparatively warm compared with other lakes at a similar altitude (temperature still in single figures) and I enjoyed the refreshing morning dip. Alistair decided to keep his powder (and swimming costume) dry for one of the later lakes. We had a quick walk around the eastern side of the lake where we found where the cows originated from. Some cow sheds with a path that clearly led away up and over the steep hills towards the next valley. Conscious now of time, we quickly returned to the cable car where we were surprised to see a large group of Italian Scouts preparing to set off on a hike plus a couple of other travellers. All of a sudden it was getting busy up there. We went into the cable car station to find the entrance locked. We could not enter via the exit due to the one way door and therefore had to wait until the next people came up. We held the door for them to ensure we could enter and then onto the cable car for the quick 10 minute descent back to the valley floor. Heading back up the road, we met up with the other two, who despite having missed out on the beautiful first lake, looked happy that they were now caffeinated up and ready for the ride. The ride up was, as usual, steep, but with four of us, conversation, albeit sometimes a little breathless, helped pass the time and soon we were approaching the dammed lake via a rocky cliff lined road on one side and trees on the other. As usual, the weather was hot and sunny on the way up to get us sweating and then clouding over as we approached the lake. A decision now had to be taken.. do we swim and then take an earlyish (12.30pm) lunch at the restaurant alongside the lake or do we push on to the third lake, swim and then return to a mountain retreat restaurant, which Alistair had identified on google for a late lunch (around 2.30pm.. we thought)? We decided to take the second option and pushed on around the lake of Ritom on the gravel but relatively smooth mountain bike route. I think we had underestimated the distance. We went uphill and after about twenty minutes passed the restaurant. Must be halfway to the second lake?.. surely. . A signpost after another twenty minutes indicated the lake was still an hour and twenty minutes on foot away and showed how much we had underestimated this route. The path continued up and up and up and on and on and on. Just over the next summit, and then the next and the next. We were now strung out over about 500 metres. I waited at the point where the unmade became even steeper and turned to boulders and loose gravel. Alistair and I then waited for Peter who advised that Mark had decided that he was hungry again and had returned to wait in the restaurant assuming that we must be almost there. The path still going upwards (now over 2200m) resulted in a mixture of trying to ride and more often pushing the bikes. Fortunately, we could now see the path that snaked round the mountains that would lead over the final col to bring us in sight of the lake. Alistair started to complain of feeling somewhat unwell due to the altitude. Carrying on, Peter, now leading, exclaimed that he could now see water. Hooray.. however, the path was becoming almost unrideable. Alistair decided that he would stop and wait whilst Peter and I pushed onwards to the lake. What seemed to be a short distance turned out to be more than 2km and deciding to abandon the bikes with just over 1.5km to go, I said that I would trail run to the lake leaving Peter determined to get to the lake but at a more normal pace to ensure that if any injuries occurred he would be able to call for assistance.. (except we had no phone signal). After about twenty minutes I arrived alone at the shore of what was the ugliest lake I had been to so far. We had come all this way to a slightly dirty, wind swept lake with a huge concrete base supporting a massive pylon stuck right in the middle of the water. The main road coming up from the other side of the mountain range with concrete tunnels completed the image. A beautiful name for the lake not matched by the reality. I was climbing out of the lake as Peter arrived, and so, turning round, we both marched back up the 1.6km rocky riverbed slope to our bikes. Remounting, we cycled back towards where we had left Alistair. He was not there. We assumed, correctly, that he had taken refuge from the freshening wind and drizzle in a barn complex that we had passed close to the summit. Fortunately, he was now feeling a bit better, and we carefully rode back down the very technical ride down, finally getting back to the restaurant more than 2.5 hours after Mark had left us. Mark had been sitting in the restaurant, with no money nor credit card for such a long time, that he had taken the opportunity for an afternoon sleep on one of the wooden benches. The wooden refuge was basic but clean but the kitchen had now shut, but agreed to prepare a platter of cheese, meat and cheese washed down with a beer. One thing of note was that all residents of the refuge were provided with different coloured Crocs that lined the entrance hall. Refreshed, and with Mark leading the charge, we headed back down to the banks of Lago Ritom. The appeal of anybody else wanting to swim, apart from me, had waned, and so I eased into the water for my final swim of the day. Alistair's swimming costume therefore remained dry all day. It was cloudy and overcast and I was glad that we were finally heading back down the steep decline to our starting point. It had been an exhausting, challenging, very long day.
Lessons Learned... The bigger the group, the more chance you have that at least one person will support you all the way and if you go biking, make sure you carry your wallet.
Andy's Blog: Day 85/100 - Trip 42
18 July 2021 - Oeschinen Lake (Oeschinensee) + Griessee
Oeschinensee + Griessee
Talking Heads wrote about a "Road to Nowhere"... very appropriate. Despite planning, some execution of the routes to the lakes to avoid bad weather had left a couple of lakes very isolated on either side of a large mountain range. The plan was to take a full day to go around the centre of Switzerland taking in Oeschinensee on the west side and Griessee on the east. If we had time, we would try to bike up to a third lake that was just south of the route.
Oeschinensee is the 55th largest lake situated in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, 4 kilometres east of Kandersteg in the Oeschinen valley. At an elevation of 1,578 metres it is a Unesco World Heritage Site and considered by many to be the most beautiful mountain lake in the Alps. (I will give my opinion, when I have completed the remainder of the lakes). It lies above Kandersteg and is an intact mountain lake fed by the glacial streams of the three-thousand-metre peaks Blüemlisalp, Oeschinenhorn, Fründenhorn and Doldenhorn. Griessee is one of the highest lakes in Switzerland at an altitude of 2386m located in Valais and numbered 74th on the largest list. The reservoir is located in the municipality of Ulrichen and can be reached by road from Nufenen Pass. The lake is fed by the Gries Glacier. Road bikes were decided upon to be as fast as possible up the respective valleys to ensure we were able to maximise our time. Simon was not only my domestique for the day but also the driver. Having loaded the bikes into the Land Rover, we set off just before 7am on a reasonably warm day with partly cloudy skies allowing sunshine through from time to time. We arrived at our first starting point in the very pretty mountain town of Kandersteg before the majority of people were up and about and, unloading the bikes, we set off up the road taking a right fork towards the path that would take us up to the lake at the top. Within 1km we had hit a set of roadworks that had piled a huge mountain of small stones that bridged one side of the road to the other. There was a deviation sign, which took us back almost to our starting place but then turned us left. This road took us up another kilometre to the large gondola which was obviously preparing for the Sunday hikers that would soon appear in large numbers. The map appeared to indicate that all roads up were blocked. Ignoring this information we carried on until the road turned into a very steep gravel path and then to a very narrow mud footpath. Maybe possible on a mountain bike (although later we realized that this would have been a real challenge for the best mountain bikers). Turning round, we headed back to our starting point again and retaking the first road, set off again, over the stone piled hillock (did not want to mention the p word (puncture)) and back onto the original road. It started very steep and wet from mud and water from the roadworks. Back wheel slipping, we were able to continue for about another kilometre before a very solid barrier across the road with a "falling rocks" sign by the side halted our progress. Back to the car, and reloading the bikes, we changed into hiking gear and headed up to the cable car. Simon had all the hiking gear; rucksack, walking shorts, spare shirt, water bottles and a pair of sailing deck shoes!!! Asking my shoe size, I lent him my trainers which had almost zero grip on the soles but gave more support around the ankle. (I had packed a pair of stout walking shoes but only cycle shorts and shirt). The gondola queue was still relatively short so, in no time, we had arrived at the top. It is a beautiful walk from the gondola station (just under two kilometres) downhill through woodland until the spectacular blue lake surrounded by snow capped peaks comes into view. It is a very popular place for hikers who are served by two large flower covered restaurant cafes that overlook the water. The lake is dotted with beach-like areas with large smooth boulders to allow people to sunbathe and even an area where you can rent paddle boats to tour the lake. The very clear water even had a temperature just above 10 degrees which made our swim very pleasant. After enjoying a coffee and gipfeli at the nearest cafe to the water, we set off, hiking back up the hill to the gondola and without any queue, we were quickly back at our starting point for the fourth time that morning! However, we had lost about an hour and therefore we were under pressure to get to, bike and swim in the second lake, let alone a third. The key now was to ensure we caught the earliest possible car-train that travels from a station about 5km south of Kandersteg through the mountain to Goppenstein. As we drove, we discussed whether to buy online tickets in advance but rejected that idea because of the paucity of traffic on the road.... that is until we reached the payment barriers ahead of the station, where there was not a single car going through the online ticket barrier but a long queue through the pay as you go route. As we crawled through the barrier, we realised that we had no chance to catch the next train and would have to wait 30 minutes for the next one. The only advantage was that it allowed us to dry our towels in the sunshine by draping them over the car. By now it was past one oclock and we still had at least another two hours of driving once we had got off the train. No lunch but Simon's bike snacks took a hammering. The BLS Autoverlad train is very efficient and leaves exactly on time at 13.22. It was then a case of driving up through the valley past Visp and then Brig before arriving at the small town of Ulrichen which marks the start of the Nufenen Pass which we planned to cycle the 14km up and over 1000m to where the road turned off towards the top of the Griessee dam. It was already 4pm, the weather was deteriorating so we knew we really had to put the hammer down. Unloading the bikes we set off stopping after a couple of hundred metres to study a map to ensure we were on the right road. Unfortunately, there was a sign to the side of the map that stated that the road and most of the hike routes to the dam were blocked with snow and rockfall. We had to make a decision.. Ignore the sign and hope that we could get through the snow block, drive some way up the road and hike up the one and only path that was open or give up and come back another day. Whilst the sensible decision would have been the third option, I did not see another date in the calendar that I could get back to this particular lake. We decided to drive up to where the path started and reassess our other options. So biking back the 200 metres to the car, we loaded the bikes back into the rear of the car (only 5km completed today) and drove up to a layby next to the start of the path. We could now see the avalanche that had blocked the road about 500m above us. We changed into our hiking gear, Simon again wearing my trainers and set off. We took a slight short cut across heather, rocks and boggy ground before we hit the path that we could clearly see snaking up the mountain towards the right of the dam. We could not see where the path turned back towards the dam, but we were in a hurry so we set off at a very fast pace up and steady incline for about 2.5 kms before we stopped as we realised we were on the wrong path. It was clearly taking us in the wrong direction. Wearily, we turned around and set off back to almost where we had set off, where we found a very narrow path that looked very steep cutting round the side of a rocky cragg, but heading in the right direction. Simon found a stick which helped somewhat with grip with what turned out to be a very steep, slightly muddy path, which required one to scramble ensuring three points of contact. It was steep, but the steepness allowed us to gain height quickly. After about 400 metres of ascent the path levelled out to a more gentle incline through boulder fields which gave glimpses of huge turbine blades of that were installed on top of the dam. Finally we reached the summit of a grey concrete dam behind which sheltered a pretty grim looking lake, the view not being helped by low clouds and the onset of light rain. Fortunately, the boulder strewn sides of the lake were not very steep, which allowed us to quickly clamber down, change and plunge for a pretty short time into icy water. By now it was 5.45pm and we were up at over 2300m in rain and increasing wind and we still had the prospect of the steep descent. Slipping, sliding but managing to give the impression of a couple of old mountain goats, we descended at a reasonable pace, only stopping as we found ourselves surrounded by a small flock of creamy white and black curly haired sheep!! The male's curled horns and their lack of fear, persuaded us not to hang around but to press on until we reached the bottom and the safety of our car. It was now after 6.30pm, we had not eaten since this morning and we still had a three hour drive home. We decided to go back to the town of Ulrichen and stop for a quick dinner at one of the local restaurants close to where we had parked. Simon called home and was asked whether he was almost home, as his son had cooked a special Sunday dinner.... oops. However, despite almost zero biking, we had achieved the goal to swim in what turned out to be one of the most beautiful and one of the ugliest lakes in the whole challenge. I know to which one I will try to return.
Lessons Learned ... After severe long term weather, it is always worth checking which roads and paths are open before setting out on a long journey... it will only become much longer than expected.
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Andy's Blog: Day 88/100 - Trip 43
20 July 2021 - Lago del Narèt
Lago del Narèt
This was the last trip I was going to make where I was accompanied. It would also be the last trip I would make directly from home. All the remaining lakes would require time spent in hotels. The plan was to approach the lake from the northern side, hiking along the start of the mountain bike route before taking the path that leads up the Passo di Cristallina to the Lago del Narèt. Mark was my trusty Sherpa as we once more dug out the full hiking gear and set off to our starting point of the tiny village of Fontana which is situated close to Airola at the starting point of the east side of the Nufenen Pass. Lago del Narèt is a lake in Val Sambuco, Ticino. It is located in the municipality of Lavizzara at an elevation of 2310m and is ranked 64th largest lake in Switzerland. We arrived in Airola relatively early in the morning and grabbed a coffee and gipfel at the outside cafe alongside the large gondola station. We then drove the 3km to a gravel parking spot by the side of the road just after the village of Fontana and directly opposite the path indicated by the yellow footpath signs. It was a warm sunny day, so after ensuring we were slathered in sunscreen, we set off up the path. The path was not very distinct as it ran parallel to the road but a couple of mountain bikers passed us within the first 300 metres which gave us confidence we were on the right route. However, after another 500m of walking across fields with no clear paths we came to an electric fence. Mark, who is an experienced hiker in Switzerland said, this cannot be right... in Switzerland one would see more signs if one was on a proper route. For information, all Swiss footpaths are indicated on yellow signs. For alpine passes, the yellow signs will also have a red and white flash on the yellow sign. These red and white flashes are also painted from time to time on rocks going up the mountain passes. We therefore decided to follow the electric fence up into the woods where, surprise, surprise, there was a clearly marked footpath and MTB trail. Now we could relax and start to enjoy the walk. The path followed the mountain bike track upwards through the trees along a very steep path, with two concrete strips designed for farm vehicles. We continued as the road started to hairpin to take some of the steepness out of the climb whilst still gaining height. The temperature was climbing and we appreciated the shade as we climbed from 1300m on Fortuna to the end of the tree line at about 1700m. The path passes a welcome water trough where one can refill water bottles, before heading through farm buildings, where the view of the mountain range of Pizzo Sella, Il Madonna, Pizzo Folcra peaks all at a height around 2700m and our goal, the Pizzo del Narèt at 2588m which hid the lake beyond its peak. The path of rocks and reddish earth meandered upwards through flowering shrubs, watered by the many streams and waterfalls cascading down. As we started to get to a height where we could see the path going over the col between the peaks, the path turned to grass, scree and water. The heavy rainfall over the past week had swollen the streams into significant rivers, the rocks that would normally act as stepping stones were submerged making crossing very interesting. The last part of the climb was therefore completed with wet feet although this was compensated by the sight of the lake as we came over the summit. It was beautiful. Whilst it is a dammed lake, one approaches from the far end from the dam which gives the lake a more natural feel. One has to walk down another 100m in height before reaching a very tranquil rocky beach area that provided a perfect place for us to change and enjoy the refreshing swim. We had carried a small snack for lunch which we then took whilst sunbathing in the warm early afternoon sunshine. We retraced our steps climbing back up to the summit, and then heading down the way we had come, including the treacherous wet feet river crossing which Mark captured on video (thanks Mark). One point of interest; we had followed the Passo Cristallina but turned to take the fork in the path to Lago del Narét. If one continues on the original path, it takes one to the impressive and very large Mountain Hut Cristallina which is visible amongst the snow capped mountains to our right. Noted to visit at a later date. Using sticks to help protect our knees as we descend at a reasonable pace, we soon made it back to the tree line, where after a discussion as to whether we had taken the correct turning, we finally arrived back at our starting point where after changing headed back to the Airolo Gondola Station for a late afternoon proper lunch and a beer. The stone structure of the permanent restaurant had an awning to protect one from the sun. Unfortunately, it also acted as a fly trap, so our lunch of salad followed by cheese and cold meats was also accompanied by hundreds of flies. Nice food, but a horrible eating experience. No tip left except that they should invest in decent fly screens. Despite that, it had been a great day made even better by the beautiful weather.
Lessons Learned... you will never get lost hiking in Switzerland.. provided you follow the signs
Andy's Blog: Day 90/100 - Trip 44
22 July 2021 - Lago dei Cavagnöö + Lago del Sambuco
Lago dei Cavagnöö + Lago del Sambuco
10 days to go, the peloton has gone, the lead out riders have dropped one by one to finally position me to complete the final 14 lakes in the sprint finish alone. I had planned to stay away in a hotel in the small Ticino town of Bignasco which lies approximately 30km north of the town of Locarno. Bignasco is situated on a fork in the road, the left fork leading up to Lago dei Cavagnöö, the right, up to Lago del Sambuco. My plan was to complete both lakes today, stay in the hotel overnight before heading south to complete two more on the Friday before heading home for the weekend.Lago dei Cavagnöö is a lake in the municipality of Bignasco, Ticino. The arch dam Cavagnoli has a height of 111 m. and the lake lies at an altitude of 2310m. Lago del Sambuco is a reservoir above Fusio, in the municipality of Lavizzara, Ticino and has an elevation of 1461m. The two lakes are ranked 86th and 57th in the largest lakes list respectively. My long journey from home to Bignasco had started in warm sunshine, but as I exited the Gotthard Tunnel to the Italian side of Switzerland, the rain started from very dark threatening clouds. By the time I had reached Locarno, I was driving through a storm which resulted in flooded streets, thereby delaying progress. Fortunately, as I reached Bignasco, the storm had moved through although it was still cloudy and cool. Noting the location of my hotel, I continued on until I reached the S. Carlo-Robiei Funivia, a huge gondola that starts in San Carlo and climbs over 800m to deliver the passengers after a trip of 15 minutes at the base of the dam of Lago di Robiei. I had looked unsuccessfully for any mountain bike route up but these lakes are so remote that one would have to travel over mountain peaks to get there. So with hiking gear on, I purchased my ticket and travelled up with a few other hikers. The ride provides spectacular views of the steep sided gorge. At the top it is a bleak landscape, especially as the sky was cloudy and grey. There is a hexagonal several storied-high concrete hostel and restaurant alongside the concrete gondola station under the huge concrete dam of the lake. one thing that broke up the greyness was a pen of about fifty goats just at the side of the base of the dam. Many yellow footpath signs indicated different hiking options, so following the sign to Lago Cavagnöö I set off on the relatively wide unmade concrete road which ran upwards parallel to the dam around a rocky outcrop. I had concerns about this lake, partly because of its remoteness and that I was alone, but also that pictures had suggested that it was surrounded by sheer sided cliffs. My immediate concern was the signs indicating rock falls. The road/path was strewn with rock fragments which got bigger as the path climbed higher. The hike was just over 6km, the path clinging to the side of rocky outcrops which dripped water continuously. After going up a steady gradient for about three kilometres, which had taken me around the lake Robiei without being able to see it, the gorge opened up to reveal a wide bowl with a grassy valley with cows grazing down to the left with the steep sides of the peaks that were my target. A small natural lake Lago Bianco lay ahead nestling in a natural bowl that reared up on the far side up to the dam of Cavagnöö. Feeling more confident, I went through a tunnel which, even inside, had clear signs of rockfall from the ceiling. A further 500m along the road, I was then confronted by a rockslide that had completely blocked the road. It was at least 5 metres high and required significant scrambling to get over it to where the damaged road continued. I passed one of the service gondolas that spin off from the main station before spotting the hair pinned path that went up the side of the peak before disappearing over the top to the top of the dam. The final kilometre up the hill was covered in snow, large rocks and mudslides, so it was with trepidation that I finally stepped out onto the top of the dam. There was not a soul about. I was completely alone and checking my phone, I realised that there was no signal. There were also rocky cliffs surrounding the entire lake but on the positive side, the water level was high. I just had to find the least rocky cliff to climb down. There was an unusual concrete conical structure, sticking out of the water which acts as an overflow. I noticed that the rocky outcrop close to the structure provided an opportunity to climb down, relatively safely, to an area where I could get in and more importantly, out of the water. The sun had just started to come out which was a relief as it warmed me after a nervy, cold swim. I scrambled back out and set off as quickly as possible back down the way I had come. I met the only people on the whole of my 12km hike as I approached the rockfall. I was amazed to see two young adults carrying two young toddlers.. incredible what some people will do to ensure their offspring get out into the fresh air. Back at the gondola station, I decided not to grab a bite from the restaurant, preferring to head down and get to my next destination. My starting point for my now, late afternoon ride was the tiny pretty village of Prato Sornico. The ride was about 12km up the valley climbing 750 metres to the Lago del Sambuco and with the sun now shining brightly and the temperature climbing into the mid twenties, I set off. It was good to be back on the bike, especially the road bike. The road changed regularly from twisting road shard-covered mountain roads through rocky gorges to very smooth, brand new tarmacked roads with regular and numerous hairpins. Despite being hot, I really enjoyed the ride up being able to enjoy the views that changed around almost every turn. I arrived in the small mountain town of Fusio that appeared to perch precariously on the side of the gorge. Stopping by the sign for the defibrillator to get my breath back, I crossed the bridge spanning the mountain river, and headed up the last couple of kilometres to the top. It is always a nervous time when you approach the top of another dam with the question going through one's mind as to how easy or hard is it going to be to get into the water. This time, I was confident that if I followed the slightly bumpy but made up road that looped around the left hand side of the lake, and sure enough, after about a kilometre, I came upon a grassy bank where I was able to slither down and find a flattish area where I could change. It is a lovely lake and because it is at a lower altitude than some of the others I had recently experienced, it was also teeming with small fish. Pairs of herons were flying low across the water giving further evidence that this was a lake full of wildlife. Taking the normal selfies and pictures of the lake, I then climbed back up to the bike where after a fast descent I arrived back at the car around 6pm with the thought of an early evening beer back at the hotel. Loading the bike into the car, I changed out of my bike gear into shorts and T shirt and was just about to set off when I realised I did not have my phone which also contained all money and credit cards. I turned the car upside down before coming to the conclusion that I must have left it back up by the lake. Driving the 12km back up and identifying the spot where I had stopped about an hour earlier, I climbed down the grassy bank and the sense of relief was huge as I spotted the phone just where I had left it. Back to the car and then to the hotel for a much later than expected, but much needed beer.
Lessons learned... It had been a stressful day, especially being alone, but one that gave me confidence that I could handle whatever was thrown at me in the last remaining 10 days of the challenge.
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Andy's Blog: Day 91/100 - Trip 45
23 July 2021 - Mattmarksee + Daubensee
Mattmarksee + Daubensee
I was staying at the Locanda Turisti hotel in the small Ticino town of Bignasco. Whilst the name suggests that it is a tourist hotel, the only language spoken was Italian and the majority of guests were local mountain road construction teams. However, the accommodation was excellent value for money, the rooms and shared bathrooms were basic but spotlessly clean. The area is dotted with hamlets that looked like they were still in medieval times. Tiny box like stone houses where accomodation, reached by stone steps, was on the upper floors, but with immaculatley kepts gardens and public areas, the whole village surrounded by low stone walls. I had a journey back south down to Locarno before turning north to drive back over the Nufenen Pass (I was getting to know this pass very well) towards Visp to tackle the Mattmarksee and then to travel further west for the swim in Daubensee. Mattmarksee is a reservoir in the Saas Valley of the Canton of Valais. It is the largest earth dam in Europe and lies approximately 30km almost due south from the town of Visp, at a height of 2,197 metres above sea level, between the massifs of the Rimpfischhorn and Stellihorn. Daubensee is a lake at Gemmi Pass in Valais that is very close to the town of Leukerbad. Unlike many high lakes that are dammed, Daubensee is a natural lake that lies at an altitude of 2205m. Considering it has a hotel and restaurant served by a large gondola that travels up from the valley, it is very peaceful, surrounded by a trail that loops round this peak-lined lake It is known as the site of the annual Shepherd Festival held on the last Sunday in July. Unfortunately, I was there a few days earlier than this year's event. The weather was perfect with sunshine and light breezes. I noted that I would like to return at a later date to ride the complete pass. It is about 30km with 1200m of climbing... good but tough. Back to the challenge for the day. My starting point today was Saas Grund, one of the many ski towns along the Saas Fey valley. I found a small piece of wasteland by the side of the road where I got ready and set off on the road bike. The bike ride was very similar to the hikes that I had done recently. Starting along roads that meander upwards through tree lined steep valley sides before quickly starting to open out to reveal shrubland with falling waterfalls, finally entering a more narrow rock lined gorge before reaching the summit of a huge mountain of rock and scree that formed the dam. The lake feels wild and isolated with views of the glacier falling down between high peaks on all sides. The only way to get into the lake was a 50 metre scramble down the rock and scree lined side of the dam. Fortunately the sides are not too steep, but I was glad that my heavy walking shoes were a permanent fixture in my rucksack. (having gone through two pairs of bike shoe clips already). Picking my way down to the water, the lake water was a milky blue, full of minute pieces of sediments from the grey rocks that formed the dam. At this altitude, the water was never going to be warm, in fact pretty cold at around 7 degrees, so my swim was not the longest of the challenge. However, the warm sunshine quickly warmed me as I changed and climbed back to find the bike which I had hidden behind a small shrub at the side of the dam. Hurtling back down around the twisting gorge lined road, I was considering my plan for the rest of the day. I had spotted a very nice looking restaurant on the way up where I had thought I could take lunch, but as usual, time was racing and I still had a fair journey to my next starting point. I therefore, reluctantly zoomed past the almost full restaurant terrace until I got back to the car. My next lake was going to be a hike, so changing from bike clothes to my walking gear, and storing the bike back in the car, I set off back down to Visp where I turned left and headed down the valley. I stopped for lunch at a quirky looking Volg supermarket (like a tardis, it looked tiny from the outside, but significantly expanded out on the inside) to pick up a sandwich and drink. Finally I reached Leuk and turning right, headed up the hairpins along the road that winds through the many vineyards that line much of the valley before spotting the sign for the Gemmi Pass Gondola at Leukerbad. It was already 3.45pm when I entered the empty gondola (the operator had told me the last lift down was at 6pm) which connects Leukerbad with the Gemmi pass. On the way up and especially from the summit, one can see the highest mountains in Switzerland and the Bernese Alps. However when I got to the top, there was a queue of people ready to descend. The station is next to a hotel with a terrace bar that was full ... (beer for later). I could have taken the 2 hour path that circumnavigates the lake or the twenty minute hike down a relatively gentle slope downwards through a boulder strewn area of grassland to the waters edge. A large stream also cuts through from the high peaks on the left to feed the lake. Two girls stopped me and in broad Swiss German, asked if I was heading to the lake. Switching immediately to perfect English when I responded in my best German, they explained that they had got ahead of their group of friends and if I saw them on the way down to the lake, could I tell them that they would be waiting at the top of the path. Having agreed, I set off and after about five ran into a mixed group of young people. Speaking again in my best German, they thanked me in English and asked whether I was from the Netherlands. Dutch?? Speaking now in my best Queen's English, I told them that I was going to swim. They did not believe me, stating that the water was way too cold. However, having given them the message and taken a photo of their group on their iphone, I got down to the lake where I turned to find them all waving and cheering as I quickly changed and plunged into the water. They were right, it was cold, but not wanting to disappoint, I swam out further than intended until I had lost any sensation in my feet. They were still watching as I came out of the water, and with a final wave they disappeared towards the gondola. Stamping my feet to encourage blood circulation, I changed and walked quickly up the slope to the restaurant, where, having ordered a Weissbier at the bar, found a seat on the terrace. What a view... . However, I still had the car train to catch to ensure I got back to the Friday night pub, so downing the beer, I headed back to the gondola station and after about another 15 minutes I was back at the bottom. I managed to catch the 6.19pm train which meant I was able to get to the pub back at home just after 9pm. One more week to go.
Lessons Learned... Bad Weather has put me in a position where the enjoyment I had experienced earlier in the challenge, was now replaced with the urgent need to get to the next lake. Also, behind with the blog writing, the daily experiences were merging into each other. I am starting to feel something that I thought I had left behind when I stopped work... STRESS .. aaargh
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Andy's Blog: Day 94/100 - Trip 46
27 July 2021 - Lac des Toules + Lac de Mauvoisin
Lac des Toules + Lac de Mauvoisin
My final week... Alone, with still 10 lakes including my local lake to be completed in the last 6 days, the pressure was definitely on. Due to a part time work commitment on the Monday, my plan was to travel down early on Tuesday morning to the Valais area, staying for two nights in Martigny and one night in Crans Montana. En route to the first hotel, my plan was to hopefully arrive mid morning to allow me to bike to and swim in Lac des Toules and in the afternoon, tackle the tough challenge presented by Lac de Mauvoisin. Lac des Toules is a reservoir in Valais, Switzerland, at Bourg-Saint-Pierre. It has a €2.2 million floating solar plant that was flown in by helicopter in 2019, and delivers 800 MWh/year. Lac de Mauvoisin is a reservoir in the canton of Valais, Switzerland. The reservoir is formed by the Mauvoisin Dam, which is 250 m high. The dam is currently the 11th highest in the world, 2nd highest in Switzerland and the 6th highest arch dam. It was built in 1951–1957, and raised by 13.5 m in 1991. Arriving in Martigny at about 10 o'clock, I followed the signs for the Great St Bernard Pass which connects Martigny in Switzerland to Aosta in Italy. My starting point on the pass was the small town of Liddes which lies at about 1350m. I had brought both road and mountain bikes, and as the lake lay alongside the road, I chose the road bike. Weather was reasonable, partial cloud with sunny intervals but the forecast for later in the day was not so good. Cycling up the pass, one can see way into the distance as the road snakes out ahead up to a height of over 2400m through a series of tunnels that cut through the sheer cliffs on the left that drop away into the gorge on the right. One of the timing decisions for this challenge was to avoid holiday periods as much as possible. It became evident that we had definitely moved into that holiday time, as the traffic was heavier than I had experienced to date. The ride therefore, was not the most pleasant, the only relief from the trucks and cars being when side roads took one round the side of the first couple of tunnels. However, there is a 6km tunnel, open arches on one side that one has to travel through. The noise generated was very disconcerting, but not as concerning as the view of the dam at the head of the lake came into full view as I entered the tunnel with no obvious route from the road to the service road that could be clearly seen heading to the top of the dam. After about two kilometres, a small gap in the tunnel wall opened to reveal a service track down towards the lake. However, as I started down, there was a two metre high gate fence, barbed wire on top with clear No Entry signs everywhere. From this position, I could see a track on the other side of the valley that led to the dam. It was clearly a mountain bike route, so I had to make the decision whether to turn back and go on the mountain bike via a different route, or continue through the tunnel and hope that I could access the lake from the other end. Time dictated that I should carry on, and so with nervousness rising within me, I carried on trying to concentrate on the traffic. I took a sigh of relief when, at the end of the tunnel, the road split, with the main road continuing upwards, but a scenic route turning to the left. As I left the tunnel, the road led to a carpark from where I could see a path that led down to the lake. I could also see a strange construction that spanned much of the width of the lake. Trying in vain to cycle down the very rough gravel and rock track, I quickly gave up and abandoned the bike by a solitary tree situated amongst the bracken and grassland that went all the way down to the water. Apart from a couple of campers in the carpark, there was no one around, so I felt the bike was safe. Down at the water's edge, I could now see that the construction that I had spotted from a distance was a solar panel field that covered an area of about 5000 sq metres. I still wonder why it is installed over water rather than on land?? Maybe the cows grazing on the far slopes would rub against it? I could actually swim out to the construction and inspect at close hand. It is an amazing engineering feat. The water was chilly so after a short visit to the solar panels, I returned, changed, and set off on foot back to the bike. It was an easier ride back because most of the traffic was travelling towards Italy and after about twenty minutes I was back at the car. Loading the bike, I set off back towards Martigny before taking a right turn onto Route de La Valee which climbs up to my next starting point of the small village of Fionnay. The weather was deteriorating fast with the wind picking up and low dark clouds rolling in. The pictures had indicated that the path around the lake was only suitable for a mountain bike, so despite the route to the dam being a road, I chose the mountain bike. I had approximately 10km of riding and about 700m of climbing to reach the dam but my biggest concern was the time as it had already just gone a quarter to three. The road is a relatively constant gradient... constantly and gradually ramping up that is. The dam becomes visible relatively quickly on the ride and appears to loom over the entire valley. The ride is actually quite stunning as the gorge on either side of the valley moves in closer and closer until one reaches a small bridge from which one gets a scale of the depth of the gorge together with the size of the concrete construction above that almost seems on top of one. After about 85 minutes I reached the base of the dam and the tunnel with sliding doors that indicated the entrance to the series of tunnels that would take one up, not only to the top of the dam, but also to areas within the rock face that housed pipes and channels directing water. The tunnels were narrow, dimly lit, wet with uneven floors. However coming out onto the top of the dam it took my breath away. It was awe inspiring. From the height of the dam one can see sheer cliffs on all sides stretching down both sides of the lake. Huge waterfalls poured millions of gallons of water from two massive openings within these cliff walls. The claustrophobic effect was heightened by the low clouds, slate grey water and rain that had started to fall. My confidence about this specific challenge had fallen to the point where I was already working out how I was going to explain that I had done only 99 lakes. My only hope was that I could get through one of the tunnels and pick up a path that would lead to an area of the lake where the terrain would allow me to climb down. Having checked the far side of the dam for any possibilities and dismissing them immediately, I turned and returned back into the tunnel. I found a signpost for footpaths in the fork in one of the tunnels and started to cycle upwards again. It was almost completely dark, the only light coming from the occasional viewing windows which afforded views through falling water to the sheer cliffs on the opposite side of the lake. The noise was similar to being in a thunderstorm with the sound of thunder coming closer and closer until it reached a deafening pitch. I had reached a recess in the wall that revealed an open metre wide deep tray over which fast gushing water flowed that disappeared under the rock under my feet to then hurtle out as a waterfall through one of the windows on the other side. It was an incredible sight and sound. I thought I was all alone, but a couple of hikers appeared out of the darkness from the tunnel ahead. Reassured that there was life in such a place, I continued riding for another 300 metres up and up and up before emerging onto a rocky path that wound its way alongside the cliff wall, punctuated by the occasional short tunnel before coming out into wild and windswept grassy lined steep hills. I was now even much higher above the lake, but, in the distance, I could see the path had dropped down to within 50 metres above the lake. Starting to descend along a tricky technical rocky path, I finally came to a point where I felt I could get down to the water. The rain continued to fall as I carefully scrambled down the steepish slope until I finally got to the water. This was not the time to hang around, I stripped off and swam for only about two minutes before climbing back out. Hauling wet cycle gear back on, but now feeling much better that I had actually swam, I climbed back up to where I had left the bike and started the difficult ascent back towards the tunnels. It was with a sense of relief when I emerged back out from the tunnel at the base of the dam, and flew back down the winding road as quickly as possible to where I had left the car. I was soaked through and shivering from the cold. However, a change of clothing and a drive to the hotel where I spent the first half an hour hanging sopping wet gear over towel rails, shower rails, and any convenient hooks, hoping that it would dry out by the following morning. Then down to dinner, a beer and the chance to plan for tomorrow.
Lessons Learned.. When alone, it is harder to face adverse conditions but you have to keep going... you would feel worse if you had taken the easier option and given up (I have to admit that I almost did - it was the lowest point I felt on the whole challenge)



Andy's Blog: Day 95/100 - Trip 47
28 July 2021- Lac de Salanfe + Lac du Vieux Emosson + Lac d'Emosson
Lac de Salanfe + Lac du Vieux Emosson + Lac d'Emosson
I woke around 6.30pm in my hotel room to the all pervading smell of slightly damp sweaty bike clothing. Lovely. Opening the windows and pulling on the least damp bike gear, I left the hotel to find a local cafe for breakfast and to plan my day. This was potentially going to be the longest day in the final week with a plan to start by biking up to Lac de Salanfe before heading back round into the next valley to bike and possibly hike up to the Lac du Vieux Emosson which sits above the Lac d'Emosson. The two lakes are about 2km apart. Not sure of the terrain at the top of any of the lakes, I decided to use the mountain bike for the whole day.
Lac de Salanfe is a reservoir lake in the municipality of Evionnaz, Valais, located at an elevation of 1925m and is the 43rd largest lake in Switzerland. Lac d'Emosson is a reservoir in the canton of Valais, Switzerland. It is located in the municipalities of Salvan and Finhaut and is at an elevation of 1,930m. Lac du Vieux Emosson is a reservoir in Valais, Switzerland, in the municipality of Finhaut at an elevation of 2205 m. The lake drains into the reservoir Lac d'Emosson, 300 m below. The two Emosson lakes are ranked 31st and 78th in size respectively. My starting point for the first ride was the small town of Salvan which was about 8km to the dam, climbing over 800m. The weather was cool and cloudy but dry as I set off along the road which cut through woodland with the background sounds of streams and waterfalls. After about two kilometres and about 200m of steady steep climbing I arrived at a campsite at Van den Haut. There was a lot of activity within the campsite as people appeared to be preparing for hiking along the various trails in the area. Crossing a wooden bridge, the trail soon turned from tarmac to gravel and ramped up significantly in gradient. Pushing on at a gradient of about 13%, I reached a barrier across the road with a steep cinder track beyond. I cycled around the barrier (prohibited for cars) and struggled up the 15% gradient. The path surface gradually disintegrated to a mixture of concrete, cinder and gravel and turned into a switchback path. The gradient was now 18% and after a push to get round two hikers which pushed my heart rate into the red zone, I had to walk, hoping that the gradient would reduce. However, after two more turns, the gradient went up to ober 22%. I still had 5km to go so I decided to abandon the bike and walk. On one of the bends I found a piece of scrubland and trying to hide the bike, helmet and bike shoes, I changed into hiking shoes, and set off. The path continued twisting upwards for another 2km before reaching a bit of a summit. I still had not seen the dam despite views of the gorge towering around me. The road turned a corner and then started to descend before flattening out. It was then that the dam came into view. It was surprisingly close which spurred me on. The path cuts along the base of the dam before climbing up to the top of the dam where the first thing I saw was, perched on a knoll, a church!! Going up to the church and thanking god I was still here, I surveyed the lake and its surroundings. Close to the church is a mountain hostel (Auberg) and restaurant and below these two buildings a gradual sloping grass covered bank led down to the water. Mountains at the far end gave a wonderful backdrop. Unfortunately, the weather was still cloudy with a faint hint of rain in the air, which gave the whole place a slightly bleak atmosphere. Also there was hardly anybody else around. Fortunately, it was an easy entry into the water for my swim which, because of the increasing rain intensity, I cut short. Pulling on my waterproof cycling jacket, I made my way back contemplating whether to get a coffee from the Auberg restaurant. However, it was already late morning and so reluctantly, I set off back down the way I had come up. One point of interest was a series of artwork positioned along the dam wall, depicting construction and the workings of the dam. All of a sudden the path going down was busy with hikers coming up. The campsite must have emptied soon after I had passed. Several comments from hikers about whether it was my bike that they had seen coming up. I obviously hid that well. However, they all reassured me that it was still there, so I tried to trail run down to gain some time. It was further to the bike than I remembered. On reflection, I would never have made it up that path on the bike. Back on the bike, back past the now deserted campsite and back to my starting point. It had just stopped raining as I changed and set off for my next lake. The weather had completely changed as I arrived at my next starting point, the small mountain hamlet of Finaut. I estimated that I had a 15km ride to the top with over 1100 metres of climbing. It was going to be tough and so it proved. It was very warm as I huffed and puffed up the twisting road, this time with the dam in clear view. It is a very popular visiting spot due to a cable car that travels to the top of the dam, and a wide flat path that circumnavigates the lake. It was a beautiful sight, with the clear blue water surrounded by mountain ranges but my thought was on the dam that was clearly visible 300 metres above. It looked very high with only a short distance to reach it. I cycled around the first third of the lake dodging the many walkers. The zigzag path was now very clear on the side of the rock face that led up to the upper lake. From the bottom, it did not look that steep... how wrong I was. The road surface was bumpy rutted concrete and led me through a series of small tunnels through the rocky outcrops at a consistent gradient of between 15 and 18%. The front wheel of the bike was constantly lifting, but I daren't not stop as I would never get going again. A lone cyclist waiting at the top took a video of me arriving at the summit. How my heart remained in my chest, I do not know!! Recovering, I took stock of the situation and it did not look good. Once more, steep rocky cliffs around the lake dropped down to the water's edge. No way of getting down close to the dam, so, once more leaving my bike propped against a rock face at the edge of the dam, (hardly anybody up here), I set off on the alpine footpath that apparently ran alongside the lake but would it give me an opportunity to get into the lake? The path goes up through boulders and across small streams before one comes round a rocky outcrop to suddenly be confronted by a snow field. Ropes attached to the rock face allows one to pull themselves up onto the snow and then very carefully traverse across the 100 metres of steep slippery snow. Again it went through my mind; if I slip and let go of the rope, the next stop is over the cliff into the water. At the far end of the snow field, the path restarted and I could see that the rocky cliff down to the water was slightly less steep. Taking the chance, I scrambled, climbed and picked my way down the rock face until I reached a flat area above the water. The water was freezing but I felt exhilarated having achieved my 94th swim. Climbing back up it was much easier to find foot and handholds and soon I was back on the snow until I reached the relative safety at the top of the dam. Back on the bike, I took the descent down the narrow bumpy very steep road until I reached the stream that fed the lower large Lac d'Emosson. The road path around the lake split and a road went all the way down to the water and actually continued into the lake (obviously water levels were higher than usual. Changing on the road surface, I went down the asphalt into the water until it fell away into deeper water. The lake here was much warmer than the higher lake so I was able to enjoy the final swim of the day, before cycling back round the lake and then onto the path back to the car. I was actually back at the hotel by 6.30pm much earlier than expected. A celebratory beer followed by dinner and back to the room to watch the Olympics. It had been a good day. And only 4 days to go!!
Lessons Learned... know your limits on how steep you can ride on a mountain bike and don't be put off by a bit of snow.
Andy's Blog: Day 96/100 - Trip 48
29 July 2021 - Lac des Dix + Lac de Cleuson
Lac des Dix + Lac de Cleuson
Another big day. Tackling one of the highest lakes in the challenge with a swim in Lac des Dix and its sister lake, Lac de Cleuson situated in the next valley was the order of the day. The weather was glorious this morning as I checked out from the Hotel Boutique in Martigny which had been my base for the past couple of days and headed for breakfast at the same working mens cafe that I had found the previous day. My plan was to do the Lac des Dix first in case there were any time delays. Hopefully, I would be finished by early afternoon to leave enough time for the Lac de Cleuson. Lac des Dix is a reservoir at an altitude of 2365m above sea level and is ranked the 29th largest lake in Switzerland. The Grande Dixence Dam is a concrete gravity dam on the Dixence at the head of the Val d'Hérémence in the canton of Valais. At 285m high it is the tallest gravity dam in the world, fifth tallest dam overall and the tallest dam in Switzerland. Most of the water comes from 35 glaciers when they melt during the summer. The lake is usually at full capacity by late September, and empties during the winter, eventually reaching its lowest point around April. Lac de Cleuson is a smaller reservoir (numbered 84th on the list) in the municipality of Nendaz, Valais. Water from the reservoir is often pumped into the Grande Dixence Dam's reservoir, Lac des Dix, for use in hydroelectricity production.
My starting point for the ride to Lac des Dix was along the road from the town of Sion. A small car park close to a pop up restaurant by the side of the road was an ideal place to start. As with most of the remote dams, the route started approximately 10km from the dam with the prospect of over 900m of climbing. Unloading the road bike, I set off at about 9.15am along the road that went through a beautiful woodland lined road, interspersed with open grassland. Gradually the scenery changed as the sides of the valley started to close in. Soon I was hitting the steepest part of the climb that wound its way up around rocky outcrops that formed the sides of the impressive gorge. As the valley widened under the dam, the road changed to a more regular pattern of hairpin bends which went all the way under the hugely impressive imposing wall of white concrete. The traffic had been relatively light during the hour that I had taken to ride up, so I was surprised when I reached the carpark at the base of the dam. It was full. It was like I had found myself in an activity park. Zip wires crisscrossed the landscape, base jumpers were lined up to jump from the top, climbers were preparing gear and for those less adventurous, there was a long queue for the cable car that went from the carpark above the dam and of course, many hikers who had chosen to walk up the 285m to the top. There is also a hotel, restaurant, and a souvenir shop selling T-shirts emblazoned with a picture of the dam. The road to the top of the dam was closed, and so leaving the bike as far from the madding crowd as possible in a scrubby area to the side, I changed footwear and set off following the lines of hikers to the top. The dam is a truly magnificent piece of engineering and the view from the top at almost 2400m above sea level is stunning. The milky blue colour of the lake was intensified by the white concrete wall of the dam. However, my thoughts were focused upon how and where I was going to swim from. There appeared to be no way down close to the dam. Even where it looked as if one could get down to within 50 metres of the water, the terrain would turn into cliffs that dropped into the water. However, just beyond the dam, there was a set of metal grill steps that went to the dam wall. It was clearly a service entrance to an entrance into areas that housed the turbines. Beyond the metal steps there was another set of white concrete steps that were clearly an integral part of the dam wall, and led steeply down 150m to the water. However, they had clearly not been used for many years as they were in a state of disrepair. The entrance was blocked with a gate locked with a large padlock. I therefore walked for a while along the path that, according to the signs, went right along the lake, but from where I was standing, I could not see if the path got anywhere close enough to the water to clamber down the steep sides. It is a large lake, so to walk to the far end in the hope of finding somewhere, could have taken a few hours there and back. I did not have the luxury of plenty of time. I made one attempt to scramble down rocks to a flattish area, but was thwarted when I came to the top of a cliff. Only one thing for it. Ignoring the disgruntled murmurings of the crowds, I jumped over the barrier that took me behind the locked gate and started to walk down the steps. Lots of people were now pointing but continuing to pretend that this was nothing more than a normal walk on a Sunday morning, I walked down very carefully the many, crumbling concrete steps knowing that if I slipped, or one of the steps gave way, I would have nothing to stop me before hitting the water. On the bottom step, I quickly changed and pushed off into the very cold water. I swam for about two minutes before climbing out to enjoy the warmth of the sun that was radiating from the wall behind me. Having changed, I climbed carefully back up the long set of steps before reaching the metal steps. I jumped back over the barrier, dispersing the small crowd who had gathered to watch my progress. Ignoring their words and comments, I set off at a brisk walk until I was down back at the bike. I wanted to get out of there as quickly as possible. I enjoyed the ride back down, as the adrenalin that had pumped through my body through the swim challenge, more than at any other time during the challenge, kept me on a high all the way back to the starting point where I celebrated with a small beer at the restaurant. I had cracked the Lac des Dix... and I got the T-shirt to prove it!! No time to waste however, I still had another dammed lake to conquer in the afternoon. My starting point for the ride up to Lac de Cleuson was Siviez, the ski gondola complex that served the Nendaz region. I set off on my mountain bike about half a kilometre before the gondola carpark because it was completely rammed full. So many people were queuing to go up on the various cable cars and gondolas that would take them to hiking areas across this very dramatic mountain area. The mountain bike route was accessed through the car park under the huge gondola on the left hand side. The surface of the road was actually pretty good with a mainly tarmacked surface, albeit rough in places. After the stunning white concrete of the Lac de Dix dam, this dam, which was visible after about 4km of the climb, was almost green grey, which blended into the fir trees that lined much of the route to the top. As it was a service road, some cars passed me on the way up, but generally it was a very pleasant although steep ride. A couple of tunnels hewn through the rock finally revealed the crystal clear blue waters of the lake set in a grass lined bowl behind a relatively low walled dam. A walking path ran round the whole lake with offshoot paths that led off down to the water's edge. Perfect! There were a few fishermen and walkers, but after the crowds from the morning, one was able to enjoy peace and almost solitude. I cycled down one of the paths until I was about 50 metres from the edge of the shore, where I left the bike to complete the final walk across flower meadows to the water. I really enjoyed this swim - no dramatic surroundings - just peaceful. I took my time changing, enjoying the very warm sunshine, before climbing back on the bike and the fast descent back to my starting point. I was then off to my hotel in Crans Montana, from where I would set out in the morning to complete the final two challenging lakes.
Lessons Learned - Adrenalin can drive you to do things that you normally would not consider doing. Phew...
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Andy's Blog: Day 98/100 - Trip 49
30 July 2021 - Lac de Tseuzier + Lac de Moiry
Lac de Tseuzier + Lac de Moiry
Last day away. 3 lakes in three days to go. In my mind, if I can achieve the two lakes today, barring fatality, I will make it. It was therefore with a confident frame of mind, that I checked out of the very nice Hotel Olympic in Crans Montana with the plan to firstly tackle Lac de Tseuzier which was situated slightly North West of the hotel and then head back down the valley to Sierre, where I would go south to negotiate the higher Lac de Moiry. Lac de Tseuzier is an artificial lake in the canton of Valais and is located at a height of in the municipalities of Ayent and Icogne. Lac de Moiry is a reservoir in the municipality of Grimentz and has an elevation of 2,249 m. The lakes are ranked 60th and 50th respectively in size.
My starting point was on the road from the small town of Luc towards Les Rousses and the dam beyond. I wanted to attempt a 20km ride, 10km up, 10km down with about 600m of climbing and therefore using Google maps stopped at a small area of gravel by the side of the narrow road at the appropriate distance to go. Despite the tarmacked road surface, being quite bumpy and rutted, I chose the road bike. The morning was very pleasant, temperature at about 20 degrees with a partially cloudy sky. I set off at about 8.45am and because my legs were feeling tired, I took a slow ride along the road that remained at a consistent gradient of between 8% and 11%. Occasional signs by the roadside gave an indication of the average gradient of the road ahead. The scenery was beautiful. Steep rock cliffs on one side, with woodland that gave glimpses of the valley below and the hills and mountains beyond. I stopped a few times to enjoy the scenery, but unlike most other dams that I had visited, this one remained obstinately hidden from view. Checking that I was on the correct road, I continued on, now being passed by a few cars, predominantly Belgian and German. I finally reached a plateau, on which stood the ski telecabine infrastructure at Les Rousse. Just beyond was a 1km tunnel with a 1.5km to the Barrage. Switching my rear light on, I cycled through the very dark uphill tunnel hoping that no cars would suddenly decide to speed down. After a few more minutes I was at the top. A flat wide road with points if view areas led to the top of the dam. Before the dam, a rocky beach lay below me, with large fires at regular intervals of about 100m were burning brightly. I am still not sure as to the significance of these fires, but they provided me with warmth after I hade scrambled down the rock to the waters edge and dived in for what was a very pleasant morning swim. There were few people about, (most had travelled to the top by car), predominantly hikers who were about to, or had enjoyed the gentle walk around the circumference of the lake. Having been warm by the burning embers of one of the fires, I climbed back up to the road, collected my bike and set off down the tricky steep descent, trying to avoid the potholes and ruts that littered the road surface. Nice lake though.
On to my next destination. I stopped en-route for a quick coffee before making my way to my next starting point at the small town of St Jean which is located on the road up from Sierre. This road must have once been a bike race route route, for as I set off there were regular signs every kilometre indicating how far to the finish at the barrage and the average gradient for the next kilometre. As I set off once more on the road bike, the first sign I passed indicated 12 km to the top and 8.9% for the next section. The road suddenly turned into very tight hairpin bends that quickly took me up to the busy winter and summer resort of Grimentz. It is a very pretty town with many of the restaurants and hotels regaled with window boxes full of geraniums. I noted a good looking restaurant for a potential celebration after this bike and swim and carried on. The road then forks, taking one to either a large carpark or onto a much more narrow and steeper road. I knew it was gettng steeper, not only by the increase in sweat pouring from my brow, but the signs by the side of the road. When I reached the sign indicating 12.9% but only 1km to go, it was a mixture of relief but also knowing that the final kilometre was going to be tough. However, the race must have finished at a point well before the dam, because the scenery changed and after the final kilometre. It opened up to a wide, sparsely vegetated bowl with the impressive dam straddling the col in front of me. Fortunately the road had flattened slightly and making my way across the bridge at the base of the dam, I hit the final 400 metre steep climb to the tunnel which announced that one had almost reached the top. The tunnel was perfectly straight running about two hundred metres, with small areas for overtaking. However, no lighting and a very slippery floor made the last section of the journey quite perilous, especially as a bus appeared at the far end coming down. Stopping and squeezing myself against the wall, hoping that the bus driver had seen me, I was relieved to see him go safely by. I took a photo of the entrance of the tunnel thinking I would ride through in triumph to my final major lake on the challenge, but couldn't get back on the bike. Steepness and back wheel slipping meant I ended up pushing the bike the last few metres. Two young children giggling slightly at the intrepid bike rider who was pushing his bike, I emerged into the daylight onto the top of the dam. It was clear, to my absolute relief, that there should not be a problem getting into the water. Whilst the sides were rock and sand covered, it was a relatively shallow incline which allowed me to walk down and sit on a large rock beneath the amazing structure of the dam. Built into the wall of the dam was a huge conical stainless steel lined overflow tube. I had seen a smaller one on a previous lake, but not one that was an integral part of the dam wall and not this large. It was huge. However, I was ready for my penultimate swim of the challenge. I prepared my phone to capture the moment via a video and then plunged into very icy water... and it started to rain. It summed up the conditions I had faced for much of the last one hundred days. Checking the video had worked, but thinking the person on the screen looked both old and knackered, I changed and climbing back up to the bike, I set off back down the tunnel and then headed down the valley towards the town of Grimentz. I felt elated as I sat down on the terrace of the hotel restaurant and ordered a large Weiss bier. I had done it!! Only the short ride to my local lake on Sunday and the challenge would be complete. Nothing could stop me now. I left the restaurant and hurtled down the switchback hairpins and then onto the almost straight road down into St Jean. The were three cars in the middle of the road indicating they were turning left towards the town centre. The first car moved across with still plenty of space, but then the second car started to follow. By then I was about 30 metres from this car travelling at a speed of over 60km per hour. I hit my brakes which caused the back wheel to violently swing out and suddenly I was sitting on a bucking bronco. The lady driver, also slammed on her brakes and thinking I was going to hit her, covered her face with her hands. I can still picture the expressions of the two children sitting in the back seat. I missed the car by millimetres. If I had come off the bike, I would have hit the car, but miraculously, I managed to stay on and after a further one hundred metres stopped by the side of the road. I was shaking with shock. The car driver, seeing that I had carried on, completed her turn and continued. The car behind her containing two lovely ladies, very kindly turned round and came back, stopped, and asked if I was OK? Thank goodness I was. So close to completion and it could have turned into a disaster as the finishing line was in sight.
Lessons Learned.. never count your chickens before they are fully hatched.
Türlersee
Andy's Blog: Day 100/100 - Trip 50
1 August 2021 - Türlersee
My local lake, Türlersee, is a lake in the district of Affoltern, Canton of Zurich and was the starting point and the finishing swim for the challenge. It lies on the border of the municipalities of Aeugst and Hausen am Albis at an elevation of 643 m. It is the 83rd largest lake in Switzerland and considered to be one of the most picturesque. Exactly one hundred days ago, after a send off breakfast from well-wishers, I was now returning to complete the challenge. The weather was teeming with rain. This bad weather summed up the challenge, which had taken place with the backdrop of Covid and during one of the worst summers on record. The biggest question in my mind was, how many people are going to turn up for the final celebration. The plan was to bike to a café in a local monastery (Being Swiss National Day it was the only place that was open), and meet whoever had decided to ride with me on my final journey. My two friends who live just up the road had confirmed, so I set off from home on my mountain bike to meet up with them. The road climbs up to Aeugst where Val and Reto were waiting. I had sent them a message 30 minutes earlier, saying that I would totally understand if they wanted to skip the bike ride, but they were there. The road from Aeugst to the monastery in Kappel takes one down from Aeugst and then up over a steep hill that would normally afford great views of the alps. Today however, the only view I had was trying to peer through rain soaked bike glasses. We arrived in Kappel after about 20 minutes of cycling, soaked to the skin. To my surprise there were a few other bikers already there and upon entering the café, more cyclists were ordering coffee. We now had a peloton of eight to bike back to the lake. After a warming coffee and apologies to the café owners for the large puddles of water that we had dripped across the floor, we set off. After about 25 minutes of a steady climb back towards the lake, we arrived slightly earlier than expected at the gravel path that leads down to the firepit area at the side of the lake. Normally on Swiss National Day, families get out into nature, light fires and grill bratwurst. For that reason, Simon had offered not to join the ride, but to head for the lake early, loaded down with wood, food and booze to ensure the grill area was reserved for our celebrations. Of course, in the torrential rain, no one else was about. Riding down the path capturing the final moments of the challenge on my iPhone video, I made my triumphant finish to the cheers of a few other supporters who had also arrived early. Simon looked cold and bedraggled and the fire was struggling to get going. We hung around, waiting for midday which was the time given to those who did not want to bike but may want to join for the celebration. On the stroke of noon, those present, lined up on the pontoon for the final swim of the challenge. The water was about 21 degrees and the warmest I had experienced throughout the challenge. The rain at this time also decided to suddenly stop. We all dived in and swam for about 15 minutes before climbing out, drying off and changing into spare dry clothes ready to start the celebrations. Whilst we had been swimming, more people had arrived and by the time the champagne was flowing we had a party of about twenty people. Cynthia had baked a cake iced with 100 x 100 ... it reminded me of a damp wedding with people standing around chatting, holding glasses of champagne and a piece of cake, and to the relief of everybody, instead of a long speech, just a few short words to thank key supporters. The celebrations continued until all champagne, beer and wine had been consumed. At about 3pm a few of us were left to clear the site and then, climbing back onto the bikes, we set off for home... and that was that. It was over. What next? Time to reflect? Time to recover? Who knows what lies ahead.
Lessons Learned... One needs a challenge in life and you get a warm glow when you realize how many friends you have. Health and friendship are the two main things that makes one happy.
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